2004年12月6日 星期一

Krug和貝隆生蠔......(2004.12.05)

(上圖:五杯香檳,由左至右分別為Krug 1988Krug Grande CuvéeKrug RoséKrug Collection 1979Krug 1990;下圖:Krug Collection 1979的酒標)

好一陣子前,主辦人Cathy就已經在規劃這個「Discover the Zenith of Krug」的饗宴,二十個名額不到三天就額滿了,Cathy的魅力實在很大……

地點在西華飯店的二樓VIP室,不過要著正式服裝。好吧,就穿正式服裝吧,不過我實在是太久沒穿了,好像有被勒死的感覺;可能也是穿了正式服裝的關係吧,我很早就到了會場,會場空無一人,就到附近晃了晃,到誠品看看書,時間差不多了再回到會場。西華飯店為了迎接耶誕節,把外面的樹裝飾上燈泡,不過……為什麼,要用白色和藍色的燈泡呢……

到了會場沒多久,大家也陸續到齊,等待的時候還可以吃吃小點、喝著Krug Grande Cuvée,雖然只是Krug最低等級的香檳,但香氣、口感和餘韻都頗值得玩味,唯一的敗筆就是不夠冰,我喝到的香檳好溫啊~ :-|

就座後,開始吃大餐,配Krug,嘿嘿~

Krug Brut Champagne 1988

Belon Oysters with Mignonette Sauce

貝隆生蠔的鹹味頗重,其實不用搭配醬汁也是很美味的,鮮嫩的蠔肉還帶有特殊的甜味;搭配醬汁後,紅酒醋汁適當地引出蠔肉甜美、新鮮的口感,個人覺得有加醬汁更好吃。Krug 1988的酒液呈較深的金黃色,帶有烤土司、鳳梨、蘋果、洋梨、酵母味,略帶有花香,香氣頗複雜,入口後感覺酸度爽口,口感略較厚,氣泡綿密、均勻且持久,以鳳梨和花香為主(和溫度應有關係),略有皮革味,餘韻頗長且有回甘。搭配貝隆生蠔後,提出的生蠔肉的甜味,頗為美味的搭配。

Krug Brut Champagne Grande Cuvée

Balik Salmon Tsar Nikolaj Fillet with Mint and Coriander Salad

尼古拉煙燻鮭魚片的口感鮮嫩,搭配鮭魚卵入口,清脆的魚卵提醒我要吃煙燻鮭魚片,細密的魚肉拉長了享受的時間,鮮嫩的口感讓自己回味不已。Krug Grande Cuvée在之前吃小點時已飲用過,顏色呈金黃色,帶有烤吐司、堅果、鳳梨、梨和清新水果味,較冰涼後清新水果味較明顯,香氣頗複雜且略較成熟,入口後有酸度但爽口,氣泡綿密、均勻且持久,以堅果和清新果味為主,頗為均衡,餘韻頗長。搭配煙燻鮭魚片後,香檳的堅果味較能提出煙燻鮭魚片的甜美口感,也是美味的搭配,我也嘗試搭配少了堅果味、酸度也較低的Krug 1988,就有感覺煙燻鮭魚片的口感不那麼地好。

Krug Brut Rosé Champagne

Anis Scented Lobster Soup with Hokkaido Scallops

我是不能吃蝦的人,所以別人是喝龍蝦湯,我的則是另外做的洋蔥濃湯,湯的呈色和主菜醬汁相似,猜測是同樣的東西。洋蔥濃湯的奶味不甚明顯,但是搭配洋蔥、細薑等調味料,口感頗為均衡。Krug Rosé一開始飲用時略冰,美麗的粉紅金色,帶有吐司、清新果味,氣味細緻但較淡,略有莓果味(唉,洋蔥湯實在很香,Krug Rosé的香氣比較難聞得到),入口後氣泡細緻、持久,以莓類果香為主,口感略較厚實,中度餘韻;待香檳略回溫後,口感較細緻、略較酸但仍爽口,口感也更厚實了些。我覺得這支Krug Rosé並不能搭配洋蔥濃湯,如果換作Blanc de Blancs的香檳可能會好些,我也嘗試搭配Krug 1988Krug Grande Cuvée,以Krug 1988搭配較佳。

Krug Brut Champagne Collection 1979

Roasted Cod Fish Fillet with Red Onion and Fennel Compote Ginger and Chive Sauce

主菜上桌囉!鱈魚搭配類似濃湯的醬汁,鱈魚口感鮮嫩、魚肉均勻,紅洋蔥和醬汁適時提味,又是圓潤均衡的感覺。Krug Collection 1979酒液較深,呈金黃色但略偏黃,帶有清新水果、鳳梨、蘋果、酵母、杏仁味,少莓果味,香氣感覺頗成熟、複雜,入口後酸度略低,口感較一般年份香檳厚實些,氣泡更均勻、細緻且持久,尾韻頗長;略為回溫後,尾韻頗長,且略帶有藥草味,複雜的香氣充滿口中,酒體表現頗年輕,不輸Krug 1988,果然是令人激賞的好香檳!搭配鱈魚肉,若魚肉沾的醬汁太少,較無畫龍點睛的效果,感覺鱈魚肉和Krug Collection 1979較不搭;但若沾了足夠的醬汁,香檳的口感和酸度正好幫醬汁和魚肉加分,更能體會均衡圓潤的美妙口感。這醬汁仍然不搭Krug Rosé,搭配Krug Grande CuvéeKrug 1988皆能提出鱈魚和醬汁搭配的圓潤口感,但以Krug 1988更能襯出魚肉的鮮嫩。

Krug Brut Champagne 1990

Crème Brulee, Freshly Brewed Coffee or Tea

上甜點了。法式焦糖布丁口感適中,上覆的水果不甚新鮮,我覺得有扣分效果,可能是我在吃焦糖布丁時不喜歡上面蓋些有的沒的吧。Krug 1990酒液呈金黃色,帶有較成熟的果香,和糖漬水果、杏仁、吐司、酵母味,略有花蜜香,香氣頗成熟且複雜,入口後酸度足,口感略厚實,氣泡持久綿密,但略有些粗糙,尾韻略帶苦,長度適中。搭配焦糖布丁,複雜值得玩味的Krug 1990口感較其它香檳來得厚些,較能搭配焦糖布丁綿密的口感。另外,Krug Collection 1979搭配焦糖布丁也是不錯的選擇。

飯後大家交談著,我的五支香檳都有剩,自己也就繼續品嘗(難得自己喝那麼慢),大致上來說,氣泡消失的香檳口感都偏酸,有著不是很均衡的酸度,不過Krug Collection 1979仍然值得玩味,雖有酸度但仍感複雜,另外Krug 1990的複雜度頗高,又略有厚實的口感,這兩支無庸置疑並列今天最喜愛的香檳。正巧,1979也是幽靈台長的出生年,實在具有特別的意義啊……真想買,不過還是要等到有錢的時候再來買……

這次晚宴也有其它酒友參加,不乏重量級的人物,吃飯的時候正好坐在窮學生隔壁的隔壁,兩個冷王湊在一起,就算中間坐人,場子似乎也不容易熱起來,真是苦了一直想要暖場的朋友;另外,坐在不遠處的大樹律師和「影印紙」不時也來了冷笑話,有人就算想要把場子搞熱,也是欲振乏力……嗯,大家都在打「金排球」……

時間晚了,慢慢大家也離開了,香檳、生蠔、煙燻鮭魚,都是回味無窮的東西啊~尤其是Krug Collection 1979Krug 1990,更是回味無窮……我喝香檳的經驗太少,不過這樣才有更多嘗鮮的機會和樂趣啊~

另外,窮學生也有詳盡的報導,可以參考:

窮學生:庫克香檳極品晚宴


Krug Brut Champagne 1988

WS:95 (HighlyRecommended)

Brilliant aromas of coconut, tropical fruit, candied citrus peel and spring blossoms hint at perfection, yet the structure is firm and unyielding. Then it all returns on the finish, a wave of fresh and dried berries, white truffle and hazelnut. A compelling and contemplative wine. What more could you expect from a Champagne? Best from 2005 through 2015. 5,000 cases made. (BS)


Krug Brut Champagne Grande Cuvée NV

WA:92

WS:95 (Highly Recommend)

Such a glorious expression of Champagne, combining depth over vintages and complexity of sites to create a profound, multifaceted cuvee. Rich biscuit, ginger, coconut and citrus aromas are followed by gingerbread, baked apple and grilled nut flavors, all supported by a firm yet harmonious structure. Endless finish. Superb. Drink now through 2008. 3,000 cases imported. (BS)


Krug Brut Rosé Champagne NV

WA:94

WS:96

Marvelous. Burnished to an orange-gold color, this rose evokes a complex palette of gingerbread, coffee, fig compote, orange peel and smoke flavors, all enmeshed in the supple texture and graceful harmony. Fades gently on the palate over the course of several minutes. Drink now through 2006. 500 cases imported. (BS)


Krug Brut Champagne Collection 1979

WS:95

Tasted from magnum. Absolutely gorgeous. Full of delicacy, showing citrus preserve and brioche aromas, turning into honey, citrus and a hint of almond, all on an elegant, balanced structure. Very subtle in its power, with plenty of life ahead. --Krug vertical. Drink now through 2015. (BS)


Krug Brut Champagne 1990

WS:98 (Collectable)

A profound wine of great depth and complexity. Its detailed flavors range from citrus and ginger to whole grain bread and woodsy richness, with accents of honey and nuts. Retains its focus thanks to a vibrant structure, all the time carrying its weight with authority and grace. Fine, smoky finish. Drink now through 2020. 1,500 cases imported. (BS)