2006年6月30日 星期五

紅利試菜小記......(2006.06.28)

原本這一天就有計畫去一趟紅利放酒,早上起床後居然遇到K大,她也想要去紅利,另外還有準備健康檢查、前一天居然大吃大喝的聖E大,小小m如我當然是恭敬不如從命了。這三個人好像不用上班似的,約好中午去吃紅利的例菜,實在讓人……嗯,眼紅,不過沒關係,我們去吃的是紅利,也是紅的。果然,這頓飯約得吊詭,吃得更是……奇妙。

請好假、出發,順便把要放的酒帶著,實在很害怕會不會有事……好不容易到了餐廳,先坐定,想了一下菜單,也順便看了酒單。David有值班,也給了我一份夏季新菜邀請函,想想,就試試上面的幾樣菜吧!另外,K大要點一支紅利的酒,為了搭菜,所以挑了這支:Château Palmer 1997

都是單點的菜色,三個人分著吃囉!首先上的是四道前菜,「水牛乳酪蕃茄(Buffalo Mozzarella Cheese and Sliced Tomato)」用上聖女小蕃茄,下襯水牛乳製作的Mozzarella Cheese,醬汁用的卻是全脂牛乳,只在蕃茄上點綴一些橄欖油和蘿勒的醬汁,是很清爽的菜色,但若能改用牛蕃茄,我會更喜歡;「風乾冷肉卷(Cold Cuts)」已嘗試數次,是Parma火腿包生菜葉,吃過幾次,包的生菜葉都不同,上覆鹽之花和橄欖油有很棒的提味效果。這兩樣前菜僅用簡單的方式,表現新鮮食材的特色,簡單本來就是一種美。

「嫩煎鴨肝佐無花果老醋醬汁(Duck Liver)」也是第二次吃,用的是新鮮無花果、無花果乾和Balsamic醋熬煮醬汁,酸甜的口感搭上微煎、表面鮮脆的鴨肝,落刀直入盤心,入口即化,口感油腴,和醬汁達成美妙的均衡,陪襯的生菜鮮甜,肝凍點綴嫩肝上,又多一維的口感,做得很漂亮,是很成功的前菜。

「蘑菇鵝肝凍(Mushroom Pate Pie)」是他們夏季新菜之一,把鵝肝和一些肝慕絲、豬肉層層包住,做成塊狀,佐以簡單生菜盤飾和無花果、紅心橄欖調配醬汁,最中心的鵝肝入口細緻,再加上豬肉、蘑菇、肝慕絲做的凍,口感層次分明,略沾醬汁和漬過的紅心橄欖,能適當增益口感。以食材考量,當然是肝慕絲和鵝肝比例越高越好,若豬肉、蘑菇能只有薄薄一層,就更漂亮了。還有,冷前菜要先上,才能再上熱前菜,可能是中午以商務客層為主,但有些細節也是不能忽略的。

接下來是主菜了。「香煎小牛胸腺佐手工義式餃(Sweetbread)」也是第二次吃,依然記得上次切小牛胸腺時,那直落盤心的手感,這回卻在煎好後,裹上香料和麵包粉油炸。想讓炸粉固定,炸的時間不能太少,結果就是……老了。油有瀝淨、擺盤美觀,但少了入口即化的口感、和直落盤心的手感,小牛胸腺吃起來就像較肥腴的牛肉,對我來說,做的有些失敗;擺盤的手工義式餃口感紮實,搭配醬汁,有一流水準。

「櫻桃夏隆鴨(Duck Breast)」是原本的夏隆鴨胸改佐櫻桃酒為主的醬汁,同樣先煎後烤的鴨胸,皮煎得焦了,帶苦,成了小小的缺憾,鴨胸本身肉質嫩腴,肉厚,但是自己的刀法不爭氣,切不好,富含肉汁的鴨胸變得肉汁分離,總感覺這肉被自己切爛了,沾上醬汁後肉還有些乾。醬汁不濃重,搭配鴨胸味道很好,只是鴨胸肉的口感被自己搞砸了吧!

Château Palmer 1997早已decant並倒入杯中多時,有著偏成熟的黑醋栗、黑莓果、紙板、草根、泥土香氣,強度適中,可稱優雅,一開始入口酸度偏低,在杯中呼吸一小時左右才達均衡,有著細緻的單寧和適中的酸度,和口感偏重的但略甜的櫻桃醬汁頗搭。猜想若改用等級不錯又年輕的Bourgogne紅酒,會更搭配這兩道菜吧!

最後上了甜點,K大點的是巧克力舒芙蕾(Chocolate Soufflé),我沒有吃,不過光看到下匙的手感,大概能猜到Soufflé的洞有些大、不夠細緻、也不夠軟拋,不知道是否是中午食菜、趕時間的緣故。

我點的是「蜂蜜香頌(Honey World: Three different ways of serving honey)」,是夏季新菜裡的甜點,以蜂蜜為主題,用三種不同的方式呈現。首先是蜂蜜捲,手工薄捲餅裡包的是蜂蜜custard,入口是完全濃郁的蜂蜜香氣,交融著較細緻的奶油口感,光是那極薄的手工捲餅就值得讚賞!再來是蜂蜜凍,做成凍狀,入口後有著優雅的玫瑰香氣,搭配著是可食用的花瓣,又是另一種特殊的體驗!最後是蜂蜜蛋糕,有著蜂蜜奶油custard、玫瑰口味sorbet、巧克力醬和派皮製成,一口咬下有著更多層次的口感交融,帶有玫瑰花香、蜂蜜甜美、custard細緻、sorbet冰洌、巧克力的濃醇,交織著……「hmm, marvelous」……

整體來看,前菜和甜點都有絕對的水準,簡單料理、口感豐富的前菜和變化萬千的甜點,若能維持堅持和水準,都會是一時之選;主菜則常出現瑕疵,火候影響熟度,進而影響口感,是很需要加強的。我自己常拿紅利和Tutto Bello相比,前者在創意和甜點料理方面水準極高,前菜部份不相軒輊,主菜則較後者略遜一籌,主要還是熟度的控制要加強吧。

服務上節奏較明快,大部份都沒有問題,也有注意到我們的需求,商業午餐也有晚餐的服務水準,若能注意上菜順序就更好了;David開酒、decant、添酒也是老練,也許算是半個熟客,已能注意到更多服務細節;場地氣氛不在話下,而且有陽光灑在窗邊,很舒服,會有一股下午不想上班的衝動……

三天後又要再來,想想,真好……

後記:沒想到隔了一天,我又來吃了,當然,是要來叮嚀菜色,讓星期六自己的活動不出包。

這天再嚐幾道菜,冷前菜「羅斯可夫蟹(Roscoff Crab)」用蟹肉絲和碎蕃茄為主角,上覆薄餅和干貝(原本是螫蝦),灑了鹽之花提味的干貝鮮嫩,蟹肉和碎蕃茄打混後再沾橄欖油,又是另一種美妙的滋味。「羅馬牛肚(Roma Triple)」是用許多香料、蕃茄、牛骨等原料為湯底燉牛肚,再擺上荷蘭芹作裝飾,還有一個餐包可以沾醬汁,只能說好吃,久燉仍有口感的牛肚和醬汁是完美搭配,這道是紅利的經典招牌之一。

今天胃口不大,吃不下整份主菜,所以點了半份的「米蘭蕃茄牛膝燉飯(Ossobuco Risotto)」,沒想到上面蓋著的是一整份的牛膝,哇~據說有用蕃紅花染色的金黃燉飯,米心果然要是硬的,但是又完全吸收Parmagiano Cheese的香味,只能說,這才是燉飯,一道堪稱完美的燉飯。牛膝大概也是用燉牛肚相同的湯汁,但有蓋上新鮮蕃茄丁吸味道,很棒的做法。

少了覆盆子果實,要怎麼實作「覆盆子交響詩」呢?這就要賣關子了,但個人認為創意十足,口感也是一流,custard綿細、sorbet清洌,開始期待能拉長尾韻的甜點了……

Château Palmer 1997
WA:87
A seductive style of Palmer, the 1997 will have many admirers (assuming they can afford it). It boasts a dark ruby/plum/purple color in addition to a seductive bouquet of sweet berry fruit, and an elegant, medium-bodied, fruit-driven, easy-going, fleshy personality. While there is little weight and density, the wine's harmony is excellent. Drink it over the next 8-9 years.
WS:90
Classy wine. Lovely berry, plum and floral character. Medium-bodied, with silky tannins and a long, fruity finish. Love to drink this stuff. Drink now through 2006. (JS)


2006年6月29日 星期四

Domaine Ramonet 2001年水平品飲品酒會......(2006.06.24)

這場由大亞天母店舉辦的品酒會,主題是Domaine Ramonet這個極知名的酒莊,選擇2001年作水平線品飲(?)……至於這水平線OOXX,當然是前陣子看到某飯店餐酒會文宣的笑話了,可能我們在喝的時候統統都要趴在地板上,才能喝到「水平線」品飲……那,「垂直線」的要怎麼喝?

Domaine Ramonet位在Chassagne-Montrachet,共擁有約18公頃的葡萄園,包含特級葡萄園MontrachetBâtard-MontrachetChevalier-MontrachetBienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet,除了細心栽培和產量控制嚴格之外,堅持不用100%全新橡木桶也是酒莊的特色,但特別的是,Ramonet白酒的特色,就是融合上等水果和木桶燻香,讓人懷疑是否使用100%新桶。本屬地雖位在Chassagne-Montrachet,但其白酒常有著高雅的風格,這種風格是許多酒廠學習、效法的對象,許多新世界的Chardonnay白酒皆以此為榜樣,當然,還是學不像。

有品酒專家指名在BourgogneChardonnay白酒最精采的三大酒莊為Jean-François Coche-DuryComte LafonRamonet,前兩者的酒奇貨可居,價格也是非常……嗯,高,但這三間酒莊的共同特性,就是融合Chardonnay的上等果味和木桶燻香,表現出Chardonnay、或是Bourgogne白酒高雅的一面。

講師Kiki先帶著大家喝村莊級和一級園白酒,皆位在Chassagne-Montrachet,應該較能喝出不同一級園的Terroir個性吧!酒名和筆記如下:


  1. Domaine Ramonet Chassagne-Montrachet 2001
    酒液呈淺金黃色,邊緣泛著透明,有層次感,液面晶亮。有著略感濃郁的玉米、礦石、鳳梨、一些青草香氣,略感複雜度,後來還有變化出一些煙燻香氣。入口時感覺到有酸度,酒體略重,口中有著柑橘、玉米、鳳梨香氣,果味和桶味融合得很棒,口感較圓潤。尾韻長度適中。現在的表現正好,頗喜歡。

  2. Domaine Ramonet Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru "Les Caillerets" 2001
    酒液呈淺金黃色,邊緣泛著透明,有層次感,液面晶亮。有著略感濃郁的玉米礦石、鳳梨、一些杏桃、一些青草香氣,略感複雜度,有較青澀的感覺,但桶味和果味仍融合著。入口時感覺到有酸度,酒體略重,口中有著鳳梨、柑橘、礦石、一些玉米香氣,口感有感覺較粗獷,酸度較高、頗清脆,頗奇妙。尾韻長度略長。有粗獷的風格,但又能感覺到圓潤的融合感,很美妙。

  3. Domaine Ramonet Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru "Boudriotte" 2001
    酒液呈淺金黃色,邊緣泛著透明,有層次感,液面晶亮。有著略感濃郁的礦石、鳳梨、杏桃、甘草、一些玉米、一些鐵塊(?)、一些氧化系香氣,略感複雜度,那奇妙的鐵塊香氣過一陣子後就消失了。入口時感覺到有酸度,酒體頗重,口中有著鳳梨、玉米、柑橘、礦石香氣,口感較圓潤,回溫後能感覺到清脆的酸度,但不太均衡。尾韻長度適中。這支酒表現出乎意料地熟,有被催熟的感覺。

  4. Domaine Ramonet Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru "Morgeot" 2001 (Blanc)
    剛喝時有些冰。酒液呈淺金黃色,邊緣泛著透明,有層次感,液面晶亮。有著略感濃郁的石、鳳梨、柑橘、甘草、一些玉米香氣,略感複雜度,有著融合得美妙的果味和桶味。入口時感覺到有酸度,酒體略重,口中有著礦石、鳳梨、柑橘皮、一些玉米香氣,口感較粗獷、直接,感覺較沒個性。尾韻長度適中。感覺這是所有一級園裡最中規中矩的,也分展現Chassagne-Montrachet的粗獷個性;另外,這個一級園也有果味重、口感較細瘦的紅酒。

  5. Domaine Ramonet Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru "Les Ruchottes" 2001
    剛喝時有些冰。酒液呈淺金黃色,邊緣泛著透明,有層次感,液面晶亮。有著略感濃郁的礦石、鳳梨、玉米、杏桃、柑橘香氣,較有內容,略感複雜度,回溫後柑橘、鳳梨等果味較明顯。入口時感覺到頗有酸度,酸度感覺頗清脆,酒體略重,口中有著礦石、鳳梨、杏桃、柑橘、一些萊姆皮香氣,有結構感,做得很不錯。尾韻長度適中。感覺這支酒的桶味和果味搭配的最好,頗喜歡。

  6. Domaine Ramonet Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru "Les Vergers" 2001
    剛喝時有些冰。酒液呈淺金黃色,邊緣泛著透明,有層次感,液面晶亮。有著略感濃郁的礦石、鳳梨、杏桃、柑橘、一些玉米香氣,略感複雜度,一開始有些悶,後來回溫後感覺到較明顯的柑橘香氣。入口時感覺到有酸度,酒體略重,口中有著鳳梨、礦石、萊姆、柑橘、杏桃香氣,較25號酒瘦些,溫度較冷時,香氣較偏重果味,回溫後則較感圓潤,很美妙,有結構感。尾韻長度略長些。Les Vergers一級園位在Chassagne-Montrachet偏北處,和其它一級園相比,略較細瘦。頗喜歡。

綜觀來看,Domaine Ramonet那融合水果和桶味的表現,實在讓自己增長見識,原來Chassagne-Montrachet的酒也可以做成這樣,不枉其名。以前常喝Colin-DélégerChassagne-Montrachet白酒,風格相較顯得細瘦嶙峋,仍是Ramonet技高一籌。這回合的白酒皆有著Chassagne-Montrachet的粗獷特性,但葡萄園位置還是決定了細部風格的變化,如Les Vergers較細瘦、Rouchottes較圓潤等,這可能就是Terroir特性吧!還有,村莊級白酒其實就做得很不錯了,目前正適飲,實在不錯。

最後我們有投票,1號、5號、6號酒都有結構,香氣和口感都一時之選,都是自己喜歡的酒,但1號目前最適飲、5號和6號感覺較具潛力,各有特色。至於3號酒,總覺得那氧化味怪怪的,卻是歐洲學校老師Stewart的最愛哩!

再來就是王牌了,不可等閒視之的特級葡萄園Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet。由店員先把酒斟好,再送上來,放在最後一輪喝:

Domaine Ramonet Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet 2001
酒液呈淺金黃色,邊緣泛著透明,有層次感,液面晶亮。有著頗濃郁的玉米、鳳梨、礦石、杏桃、柑橘皮、一些焦糖香氣,變化豐富,可感覺到複雜度,桶味強、果味重,但融合地很棒、很均衡。入口時感覺到有酸度,酒體略重,口中香氣以果味為主,有著柑橘、鳳梨、礦石、萊姆香氣,有些酒精感,有細緻感,個性有些討喜。尾韻長度略長。現在喝實在太早了,日後應有相當的變化,不過總感覺這支酒的變化有些空洞,不似當初想得複雜、有內容。

為了這支特級葡萄園的白酒,我還自備Riedel Sommelier Montrachet杯「侍候」它,香氣感覺更細緻多變,隱隱有著一絲蜂蜜香氣,似乎有較好的融合感,不過隱隱還是感覺到香氣的空洞,這算是小小的失望吧!不同的杯子會有著不同的表現,品酒也有一部份是要滿足自己的感官,所以,寫完心得後換個好杯子繼續喝,也是美事。

品酒會時碎大大就偷偷拿了一支酒去decant,當作是會後會用酒,看來以後自己手腳要快一點……會後會就在BBM之後開始。幾個朋友人手一杯,開始聊時下流行的世足話題吧!b律師前一天中暑,不勝酒力;聖E大酒量本就差,品酒會的酒沒喝完就去會周公了;不少酒友品酒會的酒也都有剩。結果,幾個酒友一起喝會後會,居然開了三支酒還喝不完……

品酒會喝了一堆白酒,會後會就改喝紅酒囉!會後會的酒由碎大大和d大大提供,非常感謝「政大校友會」強力贊助,小的就當記錄員囉!酒名和筆記如下:

Domaine Gros Frère et Soeur Grands Echézeaux 1996(碎大大提供)
碎大大先行
decant大半瓶,只留一些酒在瓶中。酒液呈深寶石紅色,邊緣泛紅色,液面晶亮。有著頗濃郁的覆盆子、藥草、櫻桃、一些果醬、一些樹幹、一些乾燥花香氣,變化豐富,略感複雜度。入口時感覺到有酸度,酒體頗重,單寧量適中且已釋出,感覺到有澀度,口中有著很特別的桂圓乾、覆盆子果醬香氣,口感有一些帶甜,很奇妙。尾韻長度略長些。這是一支做得很棒的酒,依碎大所述,前日喝到同酒莊Richebourg 1996時,就覺得這支酒可以開了,似乎現在是表現最好之時,而且沒有decant更能感覺到變化哩!

Cellers Ripoll Sans Priorat "Clasa Batllet-Grattalops" 2001(碎大大提供)
酒液呈深紫紅色,邊緣泛紅色,略偏粉紅,液面晶亮。有著濃郁的橡木、黑莓果醬、花香、一些薄荷、一些塑膠(化學)香氣,略感複雜度,有酒精感,是濃甜的討喜香氣。入口時感覺到有酸度,重度酒體,單寧量充足且感覺抓口,感覺到有澀度,口中充滿著果醬香氣,口感強勁扎實,個性直接。尾韻長度適中。

Montebaco Ribera del Duero "Montebaco" 2001d大大提供)
酒液呈深紫紅色,邊緣泛粉紅色,液面晶亮。有著略濃郁的黑莓果醬和薄荷香氣,略感複雜度,較上支酒優雅些。入口時感覺到有酸度,重度酒體,單寧量充足且抓口,感覺到有澀度,但單寧的口感較粗,有酒精感,口中也是充滿濃郁果醬香氣,很甜美、討喜的風格。尾韻長度適中。

碎大大和b律師也有文章可供參考:

碎:「Domaine Ramonet白酒品酒會」;b律師:「2001 Domaine Ramonet.」。

Domaine Ramonet Chassagne-Montrachet 2001
WA:86
Herbal liqueur and spiced minerals are found intermingled with lemons in the aromatic profile and flavors of the 2001 Chassagne-Montrachet. This light to medium-bodied wine is fresh and lively. Projected maturity: now-2006.
WS:89
Elegant and sweet at the same time, with plenty of tropical, peach and grassy-honey, ginger sauce flavors. Lovely and medium-bodied, with the vibrant stamina to improve with short-term cellaring. Impressively sweet-tasting for an '01 white Burg. Drink now through 2007. 175 cases imported. (PM)
BH:86
(bottled just before the harvest). Very spicy with extremely fine aromas of rosemary and a touch of earth lead to exceptionally well-balanced if not particularly concentrated flavors of good length and intensity. Solid quality here but not better. 86/2005-9

Domaine Ramonet Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru "Les Caillerets" 2001
WA:87
The laser-like 2001 Chassagne-Montrachet Caillerets will particularly appeal to those readers who shy away from sensual, hedonistic wines. It offers loads of juicy lemons, minerals, and chalk flavors in a light to medium-bodied, focused format. Its personality is long, not clipped, and it reveals good depth of fruit. It may well improve with a year or two of cellaring. Drink it between 2004 and 2010.
BH:91
Elegant and very pure citrus and fresh flower aromas introduce superbly intense, middle weight flavors of driving minerality and outstanding focus. The finish is wonderfully long and this is very serious in style, with an edgy, firm, bone dry character to it. Extremely impressive and this will require time. 91/2008-13

Domaine Ramonet Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru "Boudriotte" 2001
WA:89
Light to medium-bodied and satin-textured, the 2001 Chassagne-Montrachet Boudriotte reveals delicate mineral aromas. Gravel, stones, and hints of pears can be found in its broad, silky personality as well as in its impressive finish. Projected maturity: now-2009.
WS:90
Rich and ripe, with figs, pineapple and other sweet fruit. Full-bodied, zesty and vibrant, offering a blend of distinctive wet earth, mineral and wet stone notes. Silky, almost opulent on the toasted oak-scented finish. Best from 2005 through 2010. 200 cases imported. (PM)
BH:89
The wood is more subtle here with ripe, rich, pungent aromas of earth and exotic fruit notes that lead to even bigger, more robust flavors underpinned by edgy but ripe acidity and a firm, very dry finish. This is almost rough and tumble in style and while it’s no paragon of finesse, it delivers plenty of punch plus a pronounced finishing minerality that is most attractive. 89/2008-13

Domaine Ramonet Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru "Morgeot" 2001 (Blanc)
WA:89
Aromatically demure, the 2001 Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeot offers flavors reminiscent of earth, almonds, and stones. This fleshy wine has excellent depth, balance, and focus. It will be at its best if consumed over the next 5 years.
BH:88
Expressive, sweet citrus aromas and somewhat more pronounced wood spice notes lead to clean, direct, full-bodied flavors of excellent density and power plus very good length. The intensity does a slow build from the mid-palate and this delivers solid quality in a robust style. 88/2007-12

Domaine Ramonet Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru "Les Ruchottes" 2001
WA:89
Spiced minerals make up the nose of the 2001 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Ruchottes. Light to medium-bodied, focused, and juicy, it offers loads of juicy, lively candied lemons and minerals in its flavor profile. A wine of superb purity, it would have earned an outstanding rating had it been fleshier, deeper, and more concentrated. Projected maturity: 2004-2010.
WS:87
Racy yet also ripe. A good mix of pineapple, pear, mineral and lime. Medium-bodied, it vibrates with intense flavors, offering some toasted oak and menthol. Drink now through 2007. 500 cases made. (PM)
BH:92
There is a bit more of everything with simply beautiful complexity and splendid depth with seemingly endless amounts of sappy, sweet extract and an understated, long, textured and detailed finish. This is not as edgy as the Caillerets and while there is a clear mineral component to this as well, the Ruchottes is rounder and displays brilliant balance between power yet no lack of finesse. This too is most impressive. 92/2009-15

Domaine Ramonet Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru "Les Vergers" 2001
WA:87
Ramonet's 2001 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Vergers impresses the taster with its excellent to outstanding scents and attack, it reveals a short, compressed finish. Aromatically, it displays talcum powder-laced minerals that lead to a lush, satin-textured attack with perfumed stone flavors. Drink it over the next 4 years.
BH:87
Honey, mint and very ripe orchard fruit aromas are followed by extremely rich, supple, relatively easy going flavors and this too finishes almost bone dry with a vibrant acid edge to it. Delicious but this, at least not at the moment anyway, is not nearly as well-balanced as most of the preceding wines. 87/2007-11

Domaine Ramonet Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet 2001
WA:87-89
Creamed spices can be found in the nose of the 2001 Bienvenue-Batard-Montrachet. This wine's future quality will depend on whether it fleshes out as it finishes elevage. If so, it may well deserve an outstanding score. Light to medium-bodied, it reveals loads of minerals and quartz-like flavors in its pure, crystalline, tightly-wound personality. It has lovely concentration, length, and depth yet remains compressed and ungenerous. Projected maturity: 2005-2011.
WS:91
Lovely and very distinctive. Menthol and new-wood aromas, with ultra-sweet fruit--in the tropical sense--offering pineapple, mango and sorbet-like lime mingled with honey. Full-bodied, with a long finish, but you've got to like 'em oaky! Drink now through 2009. 175 cases made. (PM)

Domaine Gros Frère et Soeur Grands Echézeaux 1996
WS:89
Supple and soft, like silk, with cranberry, cassis and wild strawberry notes, this ripe wine shows a lovely sweetness on the palate and a balanced finish laced with subtle oak and milk chocolate. Best from 2003 through 2012. 23 cases imported. (PM)

Cellers Ripoll Sans Priorat "Clasa Batllet-Grattalops" 2001
WA:96
Believe it or not, this wine smelled like a hypothetical blend of the famed Pomerol, Le Pin, and the two distinctive Cabernet Sauvignons from Napa Valley, Colgin and Bryant. Truly great stuff, it boasts an inky/purple color as well as a gorgeous nose of blueberry liqueur intermixed with violets, licorice, toast, and crushed stones. It exhibits massive layers of fruit and body, tremendous purity and palate presence, and a sumptuous finish. Exotic, rich, and distinctive, this is only the second vintage for this producer. Bottled unfiltered after aging in French and American oak for 14 months, it is also fairly priced for a wine this compelling.


2006年6月22日 星期四

周二一支會小記......(2006.06.20)

我們的「周二一支會」以前辦在周三或周四,一人開一支,平均一人喝掉一支,喝多累不說,不少酒友的酒庫都損傷慘重,老酒幾盡;現在改走健康取向,很多人輪著開一支,輕鬆喝,沒負擔,隔天上班也不會累,又能細心品嘗好酒,不亦美哉!

首先是趙大哥的酒,一支做得很不錯的1982 Bordeaux,酒莊倒是不常見。光看到年份,眼睛就為之一亮,產區也是我喜歡的Saint-Julien啊:
Château Gloria 1982

木塞狀況不算好,塞子滿長的。酒液呈寶石紅色,邊緣泛著磚紅色、偏橘色,液面明亮,已有老態。有著略感柔弱的薄荷、涼草蓆、樹葉、森林香氣,香氣感覺有些單調,幾無複雜度。入口時感覺略有酸度,酒體適中,單寧量略少且已釋出,感覺到略有澀度,單寧感覺很柔順,口中有著薄荷、樹葉、一些蕃茄醬、一些森林香氣,喝起來還有像薄荷般涼涼的感覺,很奇妙。尾韻長度略短。約醒酒一個小時後,酸度緩慢拉升,酒體開始渙散。

Château Gloria遲至2003年才入選為Cru Bourgeois的一員,但在此之前已被Robert Parker評為「very good」的酒莊之一,以當時的技術而言,是做得很不錯的。1982年是Bordeaux的大好年,很多好酒到現在都未達到顛峰,以這次喝到的感覺,應該算是完全熟了,可能完全成熟的Bordeaux就是這樣吧!

這周輪到我開酒,想到老酒通常比較柔弱,需要在舌頭最敏感的時候先感受,所以我的酒放在這支Bordeaux紅酒之後開。這回我開的是白酒,地塊很不錯,而且天氣熱,喝著冰好的白酒,實在快活:
Domaine Michel Colin-Deléger Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru 'En Remilly' 1999

酒液呈略淺的金黃色,邊緣泛透明,有層次感,液面晶亮。有著玉米(像玉米零嘴、玉米鬚、玉米飼料、卵磷脂等香氣,就是不像新鮮玉米)、水果乾、鳳梨香氣,略帶一些燻烤、青草、杏桃、奶油香氣,香氣略感濃郁,但以玉米香氣為主,略感複雜度,帶有一些細緻感。入口時感覺到有酸度,酒體略強(
13.5%),口中有著玉米、鳳梨、杏桃香氣,略有酒精感,可能還未達到均衡感。尾韻長度適中。酒回溫後有轉化出一些桔皮、鳳梨乾香氣,做得很不錯。

En Remilly」這個一級葡萄園位在Chassagne-MontrachetPuligny-Montrachet的交界,嘗過同款酒的兩個年份,常兼有粗獷的口感和細緻的香氣,是我喜歡的風格之一。Burghound的適飲期寫的沒錯,實在是開的太早了,最少要再放兩三年後,才會逐漸適飲、達到均衡吧!酸度還高,還沒熟,而我則開始考慮要不要再買一支來放……

喝著喝著,居然遇到了葉醫師,他也開心的拿了一支酒出來,正巧兩個月前喝過2002年的同款酒,很新派、討喜,很喜歡,那麼這支十歲的酒呢?
Domaine Vincent et Philippe Lechéneaut Nuits-St.-Georges 'Les Damodes' 1995

酒液呈寶石紅色,邊緣泛紅色、略偏橘色,液面明亮。有著鐵塊、大地系、薄荷覆盆子香氣,略帶一些櫻桃和煙燻香氣,香氣略強,變化豐富,能感覺到複雜度,香氣做的實在漂亮。入口時感覺到有酸度,酒體較強,單寧量適中且已釋出,感覺到有澀度,口感頗均衡,有強勁感,口中有著覆盆子、草莓、大地系、皮革、甘草香氣,略帶一些薄荷香氣,變化豐富,不可思議。尾韻長度適中,帶有甘草感。是一支無庸置疑的好酒,現在表現正好!

Les Damodes」葡萄園鄰近Vosne-Romanée村,1/3是村莊級,2/3是一級葡萄園,果味豐沛、極具魅力,神似Vosne-Romanée村的強勁風格。Lechéneaut酒莊是當地水準極高的酒莊之一,回想上一次在悅上海喝到的口感,年輕的酒喝起來很新派,居然在數年後會有這樣的變化,更相信他們的高水準了。

時間也晚了,酒友們先行離開,我留下等店員的時候,葉醫師再加開一小支甜白酒,疑?這支酒好面熟啊……年份是極好的2003,非常期待:
Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey 2003 (375mL)

酒液呈金黃色,邊緣泛著透明,有層次感,液面晶亮,是非常年輕的酒。有著極濃郁的蜂蜜、花蜜、杏桃、楓糖糖漿香氣,略帶一些塑膠、花香、草梗、檸檬、萊姆皮香氣,濃厚的香氣藏著豐富變化,略感複雜度。入口時感覺到有酸度,重度酒體,是濃郁的甜美口感,口中有著蜂蜜、杏桃、塑膠、花香、檸檬香氣,酸感酷似檸檬,但又有濃厚的甜味,拉長在口中的感受。尾韻帶著蜂蜜、草梗、檸檬香氣,有約
20秒的長度,頗長。蜂蜜、杏桃、檸檬香氣不時竄出,每口都有著不同的感受。

這是一支濃郁厚實的好酒,還有著豐富細緻的變化,隱隱能感覺到,陳年之後會有更漂亮的表現,但不知道自己是否能等那麼久……時間真的晚了,慢慢地回去休息,以漂亮的甜酒作結尾,實在讓人開心……

Château Gloria 1982
WA:88
The 1982 Gloria is proving to be one of the most pleasant surprises of the vintage.  Recent bottles have been beautifully rich, with classic blackcurrant fruit intertwined with scents of spice, herbs, and cedar. Full-bodied, with a lovely concentrated feel, this is the richest Gloria since the tannic 1975 and glorious 1970 (now in decline).  The 1982 could have been bought for a song when released (I purchased it for $7.29 a bottle). When it was young, it was just a big ball of juicy fruit, but it has developed well. While seemingly fully mature, this wine will easily last for another 7-10 years .  Tasted 8 times since bottling with consistent notes.
WS:89
Big, warm and ripe. Medium ruby color. Fresh and fruity, with perfume, berry and raspberry aromas. Medium-bodied, with berry, cherry and chocolate flavors, medium tannins and a medium finish.--1982 Bordeaux horizontal. Drink now. (JS)

Domaine Michel Colin-Deléger Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru 'En Remilly' 1999
T:90
Floral, lime and nut oil notes on the nose. Bright but tight in the mouth, with intense, firm flavors of lime and minerals. High-pitched but not hard. Finishes impressively long, with excellent grip. This should age gracefully.
BH:91
While most examples of En Remilly offer good detail and minerality, few offer the power and intensity of this 99. Quite tight and closed with almost painfully intense flavors and a powerful acid backbone; the entire package is like drinking liquid rocks. This is so reserved today that it’s frankly difficult to evaluate and my rating could well prove to be conservative. Don’t touch this for at least 5 years. 91/2007+

Domaine Vincent et Philippe Lechéneaut Nuits-St.-Georges 'Les Damodes' 1995
WA:88-90
From a 40 year old parcel bordering Vosne-Romanee, the dark-ruby-colored Nuits-St.-Georges Les Damodes reveals a fabulously perfumed, spicy sweet nose and an extremely elegant, structured, delineated, thick-textured, tangy-fruit-packed personality. A real winner! Drink between 2002-2008. This note is the result of tastings I did in Burgundy between January 7 and January 29. The wine was tasted from cask, not bottle. Pinot Noir, a fragile varietal, reacts poorly to fining, filtration, and careless bottling techniques, I recommend caution when considering buying a red burgundy based on cask samples. I called it as I tasted it, and hope the bottled wine reflects the quality of the samples I was provided. Each of Domaine Lecheneaut's offerings is a pleasure to recommend. These wines are lush and sweet but capable of aging well, as the 1990s I have in my cellar continue to prove.
WS:85
Beautiful aromas of blackberries and roses are followed by a firmly structured, crisp-tasting wine. Plenty of dry tannins in evidence, so wait until 2000. 300 cases made. (PM)

Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey 2003
WA:89
WS:97
Very, very intense aromas of dried apricot and lemon. Honey, syrup and Golden Delicious. Full-bodied, viscous and very sweet. Pour it on pancakes. Love it. And drink it. Who can wait? Best after 2010. 6250 cases made. (JS)
T:89-91
Full yellow-gold. Sweet aromas of apricot and nuts. Suave, fleshy and rich, with thick, honeyed-flavors given shape by just enough acidity. Shows repeating nutty oak in the middle palate and on the finish. A very rich, thick style, with very good but not outstanding complexity.


2006年6月19日 星期一

2004德國白酒品酒會和會後會......(2006.06.17)

本月舉辦的認真會,主題是2004年的德國白酒,包含KabinettSpätlese兩個等級。相較於2003年「詭異」的炎熱天氣,2004年的氣候較涼爽,葡萄採收時應有較高的酸度,能預期的是有較均衡的口感,也可能較2003年精采。當然,這些都只是自己的推測,還是要真的喝過、體驗過,才知道箇中差異。

因為有兩個不同的等級,所以把KabinettSpätlese分開瞎喝,讓相同級數的酒一起評比,也才能喝出差異,不過……在喝第二輪的時候,就有可能喝不出來了吧!先不管了,喝再說。第一輪是較不甜的Kabinett等級,是瞎喝,也要猜產區,當然若能猜到酒莊就更好了!先記錄筆記如下:


  1. 酒液呈淺檸檬綠色,邊緣泛透明,液面晶亮。有著水蜜桃、蘋果、一些礦石香氣,香氣強度略弱,有纖細感,略有複雜度。入口時感覺有酸度,酒體略弱,口中有著柳橙、桔皮、一些礦石香氣。尾韻長度略短。感覺有些瘦,猜想是Mosel-Saar-Rüwer的酒莊。

  2. 酒液呈淺檸檬綠色,邊緣泛透明,液面晶亮。有著水蜜桃、蘋果、一些杏桃、一些礦石香氣,略有酒精感,香氣強度略弱,略感複雜度。入口時感覺到有酸度,酒體適中,口中有著桔皮、一些礦石香氣,略有一些甜美,不過有些空洞感。尾韻長度適中。有點像Pfalz的酒,但至少不是Mosel-Saar-Rüwer

  3. 酒液呈淺檸檬綠色,邊緣泛透明,液面明亮。有著水蜜桃、一些礦石香氣,香氣強度略弱,幾無複雜度,香氣感覺平淡無變化。入口時感覺到有酸度,酒體適中,口中有著水蜜桃、桔皮、一些礦石香氣。尾韻長度適中。不會是Mosel-Saar-Rüwer的酒,也不是Pfalz,大概不是Rheingau就是Nahe

  4. 酒液呈淺檸檬綠色,邊緣泛透明,液面晶亮。有著水蜜桃、蘋果、,一些杏桃、一些礦石香氣,香氣強度略弱,略感複雜度。入口時感覺到有酸度,酒體適中,口中有著杏桃、桔皮、一些礦石香氣,口感略甜美、討喜,果味較豐沛。尾韻長度適中。這也不會是Mosel-Saar-Rüwer的酒,感覺頗肥美而猜是PfalzMüller-Catoir,不過也有像Künstler的風格。

  5. 酒液呈淺麥桿色,略偏檸檬綠色,是所有酒裡顏色最淺的,邊緣泛透明,液面晶亮。有著一些蜜桃、一些礦石、一些麥桿(青草)香氣,香氣強度弱,略感複雜度,似乎有平淡感。入口時感覺到有酸度,酒體略弱,口中有著蘋果、水蜜桃、礦石、一些青草香氣,口感很不錯,但略感細瘦。尾韻長度適中。第一口喝起來似乎平淡,但隱藏著細緻高雅,是其它酒比不上的。好瘦、好淺的酒液,猜是Mosel-Saar-Rüwer。喜歡這支酒。

  6. 酒液呈淺檸檬綠色,邊緣泛透明,液面晶亮。有著水蜜桃、一些檸檬、一些礦石香氣,香氣強度略弱,幾無複雜度,香氣酸的感覺明顯,還帶有細微氣泡感。入口時感覺到有酸度,酒體適中,口中有著果、一些礦石香氣,口感有些苦,不太均衡,有些單調。尾韻長度略短。以香氣和口感判斷,應是Mosel-Saar-Rüwer無疑。

  7. 酒液呈淺檸檬綠色,但較其它酒淺些,邊緣泛透明,液面晶亮。有著水蜜桃、一些桔皮、一些礦石香氣,香氣強度略弱,略感複雜度。入口時感覺到有酸度,酒體適中,口中有著蘋果、一些礦石香氣,有些清瘦,不過有均衡感。尾韻長度略短。這支酒應該也是Mosel-Saar-Rüwer的酒莊,我會大膽猜它是Dr. Loosen。喜歡這支酒。

算一算,Mosel-Saar-Rüwer多一間,而且我實在分不出NaheRheingau的差別,只能寫MoselNon-Mosel,若是Non-Mosel再寫其它村莊名稱,看來會錯得很徹底。答案揭曉,只猜對一個酒莊,再加猜對兩個Mosel-Saar-Rüwer,只得兩分,好慘:


  1. Joh. Jos. Christoffel Erben Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Kabinett 2004 (Mosel-Saar-Rüwer)

  2. Müller-Catoir Gimmeldinger Mandelgarten Riesling Kabinett 2004 (Pfalz)

  3. Hermann Dönnhoff Oberhäuser Leistenberg Riesling Kabinett 2004 (Nahe)

  4. Franz Künstler Reichestal Riesling Kabinett 2004 (Rheingau)

  5. Robert Weil Rheingau Riesling Kabinett 2004 (Rheingau)

  6. Reinhold Haart Piesporter Riesling Kabinett 2004 (Mosel-Saar-Rüwer)

  7. Dr. Loosen Bernkastler Lay Riesling Kabinett 2004 (Mosel-Saar-Rüwer)

整體看來,都和之前所想差不多,所有的酒都有很好的酸度表現,口感也都較均衡些,但以深度來說,還是Mosel-Saar-Rüwer的較好,1號和7號酒表現都不錯。另外,好的酒莊也有好的表現,而且確實能喝出酒莊的差異,這回合的5號(Robert Weil)和7號(Dr. Loosen)都被German Wine Guide評選為五串葡萄酒莊,實力本就不容小覷,在blind-tasting時就已很喜歡,看到答案才知道實力驚人。

我只對Mosel-Saar-RüwerPfalz的產區特性較熟,對於NaheRheingauRheinhessen等都喝不太出來,以後可以再多加強;另外,這次還是被Franz Künstler那樣甜美的風格騙到了,才會猜它是Pfalz,哈~不過後來討論時得知Pfalz在夏季遭受冰雹攻擊,多少會影響到葡萄水準。

第一回合Kabinett結束後沒多久,第二回合Spätlese就開始,還要快快清杯子倒酒。這回合裡,大家至少都能猜到一支酒,不會有人掛蛋,除非舌頭對甜味沒感覺……不過,這回合不猜酒了,單純只選出個人喜歡的酒,所以這回是寫下酒名,和自己的筆記:


  1. Hermann Dönnhoff Schloßböckelheimer Kupfergrube Riesling Spätlese 2004 (Nahe)
    酒液呈淺檸檬綠色,略偏金黃色,邊緣透明,液面晶亮。有著水蜜桃、一些礦石、一些青草、一些桔皮香氣,香氣強度略弱,略感複雜度。入口時感覺到略有酸度,酒體適中,口感略甜,有水蜜桃、青草香氣,不過略有苦口感,有些均衡。尾韻長度適中。

  2. Markus Molitor Riesling Spätlese 2004 (Mosel-Saar-Rüwer)
    酒液呈檸檬綠色,邊緣透明,液面晶亮。有著頗明顯的硫磺味,還有礦石、桔皮、水蜜桃、一些杏桃香氣,香氣強度適中,略感複雜度。入口時感覺到略有酸度,酒體適中,口感略甜,有著桔皮和明顯的硫磺香氣,實在不佳。尾韻長度略短。想喜歡它實在滿困難的。

  3. Schäfer-Frölich Bockenauer Felseneck Riesling Spätlese 2004 (Nahe)
    酒液呈略淺的檸檬綠色,邊緣透明,液面晶亮。有著水蜜桃、蘋果、果蜜、礦石香氣,香氣強度略柔細,略感複雜度。入口時感覺略有酸度,酒體適中,有著桔皮、水蜜桃、礦石、一些青草香氣,口感略甜,做得頗均衡。尾韻長度適中。喜歡這支酒。

  4. Robert Weil Rheingau Riesling Spätlese 2004 (Rheingau)
    酒液呈略淺的檸檬綠色,邊緣透明,液面晶亮。有著水蜜桃、礦石、荔枝、一些青草香氣,頗優雅,香氣強度略柔弱,略感複雜度。入口時感覺到略有酸度,酒體適中,口感略甜,有著荔枝、水蜜桃、礦石香氣,做得很很均衡、漂亮。尾韻長度適中。喜歡這支酒。

  5. Reichsrat von Buhl Forster Pechstein Riesling Spätlese Trocken 2004 (Pfalz)
    酒液呈檸檬綠色,邊緣透明,液面晶亮。有著奇特的雙氧水香氣,另有礦石、一些桔皮香氣,奇怪的雙氧水味後來消失,帶出水蜜桃、桔皮香氣,香氣強度適中,略感複雜度。入口時感覺到略有酸度,酒體適中,口感不甜且帶苦,入口較單調,以水蜜桃香氣為主。尾韻長度適中。不太喜歡這支不甜的
    Spätlese,而且那股雙氧水香氣實在特怪。

  6. Müller-Catoir Gimmeldinger Mandelgarten Riesling Spätlese 2004 (Pfalz)
    酒液呈檸檬綠色,邊緣透明,液面晶亮。有著水蜜桃、青草、礦石香氣,香氣強度適中,但略感青澀,略感複雜度。入口時感覺到略有酸度,酒體適中,口感略甜,有著水蜜桃、杏桃、礦石香氣,做得不錯,有均衡感。尾韻長度適中。喜歡這支酒。

  7. Reinhold Haart Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling Spätlese 2004 (Mosel-Saar-Rüwer)
    酒液呈檸檬綠色,邊緣透明,液面晶亮。有著水蜜桃、青草、礦石香氣,香氣強度適中,略感複雜度。入口時感覺到略有酸度,酒體適中,口感略甜,不過略感苦口,有著水蜜桃、青草、礦石香氣,不甚喜歡這苦口的感覺。尾韻長度略短。

整體來看,扣除2號和5號酒的特怪香氣,2004年德國Spätlese都有著較一致的水準,香氣基調、口感差不多,似乎較喝不出地塊的特色。另外,好的酒莊仍然有高水準的表現,而且還有漂亮的酸度支撐,讓口感更均衡了。較令我納悶的是Reinhold Haart,兩支酒都有苦味,以前的酒沒遇到過,是那裡出問題了嗎?最後,這次表現較失常的2號酒,有著怪怪的硫礦香氣,大家還有討論2號酒是否用了較多的SO2(二氧化硫)?

最後就是會後會了,一堆微甜的德國Spätlese催化大家的情緒,從開始笑到結束,笑到又痠又累,真是苦了大家的嘴巴和肚子。上周的新聞仍有新發展,而且又有更多好笑或好玩的八卦,開懷大笑和微酸白酒都能增進食慾,大家吃的飯又多又開心,吃喝到肚子鼓鼓;德哥做菜的技術仍然一流,簡單料理的東西已是上等美味,所以還是統統見底,也感謝d君提供兩種口味的cheese以饗酒友。我只照到一樣菜,哈~

白酒喝多了,最後開兩支紅酒喝,由莊主和德哥貢獻,酒名和簡單的筆記如下:

Bodegas Valdemar Rioja Reserva 'Conde de Valdemar' 1999(莊主提供)
酒液呈寶石紅色,有些淺,邊緣泛磚紅色,帶點橘色,液面明亮,有些老態。有著大地、巧克力、落葉香氣,香氣已屬成熟,強度適中,但變化欠佳,幾無複雜度。入口時感覺有酸度,酒體適中,單寧量略少且已釋出,感覺到略有澀度,口中香氣變化不多,僅有著泥土的大地系香氣,酸度異常地高,猜想是葡萄品種的關係吧。尾韻長度略短。

Yering Station Yarra Valley Pinot Noir 2003(德哥提供)
酒液呈深寶石紅色,邊緣泛粉紅色、略偏紅色,液面晶亮。有著頗濃郁的紅莓果醬、巧克力、覆盆子果醬香氣,有些酒精味,略感複雜度。入口時感覺到有酸度,單寧量適中而感覺到有澀度,酒體較重,口中以濃郁的果醬香氣為主,口感略甜,有著甜美、討喜的風格,有酒精感。尾韻長度適中。
Yering StationJames Halliday評為五顆星的酒廠之一,是頗具實力的新世界酒廠,這支酒也獲得評分93分。

下次認真會主題未定,不過我大概要告假了,女朋友很重要,偶爾要荒廢一下的,其實……是我太久沒出去玩、太久沒有好好放鬆了,所以開始計畫(?),然後,準備寫遊記吧~!


2006年6月13日 星期二

KJ慶生會@Tutto Bello......(2006.06.10)

酒界專賣雞腿堡的K大大(不是啃得雞,更不是啃你雞),和酒界專賣果凍的前輩J大哥,都在最近生日,於是大伙準備許久,更由AA大大出馬,訂了知名義大利餐廳Tutto Bello,請Samson幫忙作最適當的餐酒搭配。酒單已夠懾人,能搭配的菜當然也要是一時之選,而且多數是菜單上沒有的菜色,足見Samson的用心。我?據說沒有酒友看過我打領帶……我打領帶有這麼好看嘛?

先把酒單打出來,會有很多大家很「哈」的酒吧:
Bollinger Brut Champagne Vieilles Vignes François 1992
Louis Roederer Brut Rosé Champagne Cristal 1996
Gaja Barbaresco Sori Tildin 1982 (MG)
Château Haut-Brion 1930
Château Petrus 1973
Château Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 1980
Domaine Gros Frère et Soeur Richebourg 1996
Domaine des Baumard Quartz de Chaume 1990

先是香檳暖場時間,先是送上Bollinger Brut Champagne Vieilles Vignes François 1992,金黃色酒液中透出細緻綿密的氣泡,烤吐司、酵母、燻烤、焦糖等細緻香氣竄出,入口仍能感受到氣泡的跳動,100% Pinot Noir帶出酒廠一貫的強勁風格,細緻燻烤、BBQ香氣變化著,果然是好香檳。

接下來是Louis Roederer Brut Rosé Champagne Cristal 1996,差不多時間也送上開胃的奶油麵包。Cristal Rosé算是粉紅香檳的逸品之一,產量少又珍貴(每年出廠價都漲,也算是特色之一吧),漂亮的鮭魚紅色,有著細緻、均勻、持久的mousse,透出烤吐司、酵母、燻烤、鳳梨、BBQ、一絲莓果香氣,口感和Bollinger相比較細瘦,但有著漂亮的優雅氣質,開得太早,還能再放。喝著這支逸品,每口粉紅香檳都有著特殊的感受,也聽聞了K大大有「ㄤ」了,當然要恭祝她們百年好合囉!

差不多該上前菜了。前菜是「檸檬風味龍蝦菲力搭配乾煎朝鮮薊及濃縮海鮮湯(Butter Poached Lobster with Thyme, Potato Pizza, Baby Artichoke Confit, Seafood Espresso, Limoncello Sauce)」,先是油醋醬混合新鮮生菜葉,再來是乾煎朝鮮薊,朝鮮薊只取嫩心,乾煎直接入盤,下刀直落盤心,嫩到無話可說,頭一次吃到如此鮮嫩的朝鮮薊;我不能吃龍蝦,卻換到鵝肝,嫩如布丁般的鵝肝是入口即化,完全無筋已是理所當然,直接讓我回想到第一次吃小牛胸腺的口感,簡直無話可說。不能吃蝦的我,把海鮮湯讓給朋友,淺淺聞一下,猜想全蝦的精華盡在此湯吧!這是一道極好的前菜,只是鵝肝下襯的麵包可改用玉米餅,手感和口感會更好,那大概就是完美吧!

吃完最後一口前菜,再繼續聊天、休息,侍者則斟上了義大利酒Gaja Barbaresco Sori Tildin 1982。許多酒友對第一個字不陌生,對「義大利雙B」之一的Barbaresco也不陌生,而Sori Tildin則是Angelo Gaja最好的Barbaresco。接近深紫紅色的酒液,很難想像Nebiollo居然能釀出這麼深的顏色,陳年超過20年而顏色未褪,像是1990年左右的上等Barbaresco;飄出的紫羅蘭、紅莓果、大地、松露香氣,細緻且綿長,一絲燻烤香氣飄逸,不若常喝到Barolo的強勁,這支酒果以細緻感取勝;入口單寧如絲,達到漂亮完美的均衡,入喉後有著悠長尾韻,果然是少有的好酒。

這支Barbaresco用來搭配熱前菜「松露醬燴春夏鮮菇(Spring and Summer Mushrooms with Truffled Cream)」,用上濃郁松露碎片、松露油、奶油作成醬汁,內襯四種春夏季出產的菇類,我只吃得出草菇、杏鮑菇,其它可能要靠主廚幫忙了。松露奶油醬汁和鮮菇混合於口,是極完美的組合,是道簡單的前菜,但用料和感受一點也不簡單。Barbaresco那漂亮的花香和松露香氣,正搭這道熱前菜,是無懈可擊的搭配。

然後,連上三支老BordeauxSamson此時告知Haut-Brion 1930有問題,但其它兩支酒則很正常,為增加自身的經驗值,還是要嚐嚐這三支老酒。Château Haut-Brion 1930顏色異常地深,但口感柔弱,以松露、菌菇、腐葉、一些巧克力香氣為主,欠變化,雖然沒有corked,但實在不佳,猜想Samson所說的「問題」,是不夠精采吧!

Château Petrus 1973透出壯年的紅寶石光澤,邊緣略偏磚紅,一開始香氣頗沉悶,只有少少的李子乾、葡萄乾、土地(泥土)香氣,聞不到貴貴的「錢」味,略醒一下後,才發揮了Petrus高貴的氣質(就是聞到了「錢」味),飄著李子、黑莓果、泥土、松露、樹葉和杉木香氣,也是有著絲絨般的單寧,尾韻細長,做得很不錯。Château Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 1980則更年輕的紅寶石光澤,帶著粉紅色的邊緣,看起來頗年輕,略感強勁的杉木、黑醋栗、水果乾、泥土、松露香氣,有著強勁的口感,單寧也是細緻,香氣持續許久,表現很不錯。

前主菜「羊膝燉飯佐焦糖洋蔥(Lamb Shank Risotto, Caramelized Onion and Parmigiano)」上桌,使用Parmigiano Cheese做的燉飯,燉飯米心微生,有著該有的口感,是控制得很好的燉飯;上覆炒過的洋蔥和燉羊膝,口味有些重,搭酒就剛好了,燉到嫩爛的羊膝沒有腥羶味,炒過的洋蔥帶著似有若無的焦糖香甜,是很美妙的搭配。這道前主菜的水準很高,燉飯的水準和前一天吃到的相比,實在天差地遠。原本是用來搭配Petrus的前主菜,也很適合搭配Pichon-Lalande呢!

氣氛愈益熱絡,「蜂蜜」聲也不絕於耳。酒酣耳熱之際,侍者為我們斟上Domaine Gros Frère et Soeur Richebourg 1996,傳說中「有錢人的漢堡」,這種酒若放在肚子太小的杯裡,真的可惜了,所以我準備了Riedel Sommelier Burgundy Grand Cru的大肚杯「對付」它。「神之」漫畫的第一集裡,女主角喝到那一口DRC Richebourg、身在百花園裡的感覺,這支酒就差不多是這個樣子。頗深的寶石紅酒液裡,透出的是陣陣的玫瑰花、覆盆子、紅莓果香氣,還有著一些風乾水果、新鮮泥土、烤肉、奶油、香料香氣,變化豐富,而Riedel的酒杯正凸顯了這支酒的玫瑰花香,猶如身在百花齊放的玫瑰花園裡,生意盎然。類似的香氣,也在Givenchy Irresistible的香水裡出現,類似大馬士革玫瑰的味道,香,就是那種優雅的花香佔滿整個杯子,佔滿了當下所有的感受。

好酒要搭菜,精典的頂級酒要搭主菜,主菜「油封鴨腿搭配芥茉醬燉蒜苗(Crispy Duck Confit with Stewed Young Leek and Mustard Cream)」上場囉!鴨腿本身肉多油腴,油封後做成功夫鴨腿(Duck Confit)應是鮮嫩多汁,不過這回鴨腿有些熟了,稱不上鮮嫩多汁,後來吃更顯乾瘦些;有芥茉子的芥茉醬一直是我愛吃的,加入奶油做成的醬汁更是吃到一滴不剩。若能控制好鴨腿的熟度,我想這會是極好吃的主菜。

我還有留了一些PetrusPichon-Lalande,本想飲盡,被一物所擋。這是沒有在菜單裡出現的「松露薯條」,極盡奢侈地用上切碎的松露和松露油,放在剛炸好、油瀝好的薯條上,每口咬下薯條,搭上松露香,又是另一種享受了。用來搭配老酒,松露和菌菇香氣充鼻不散,正好。這時大家的話都少了,如Samson所說,一吃無法罷手,非要吃完不可。

慢慢啜飲著Richebourg,感受它的變化,香氣緩慢地變成熟了,喝到最後一口,草梗味接上,花園變小了,像是一朵朵保存良好的乾燥玫瑰花,留作最後的紀念。享用主菜後,等著上甜點之際,侍者幫我們倒好甜酒,是Loire Valley知名酒莊的好酒,Domaine des Baumard Quartz de Chaume 1990。漂亮的金黃色酒液裡,帶有漂亮的蜂蜜、花香、礦石、水蜜桃和杏桃香氣,酸度減少了甜口感,更拉長了餘韻,拉長了感受它的時間。這是一支很棒的甜酒,我們也是喝到最好的時候,時間慢慢經過,我們則等待著甜點上桌。

甜點則是「杏仁湯鮮奶布丁(Panna Cotta with amaretto Soup)」,口感較奶酪更鮮嫩的香草鮮奶布丁,用的當然不是香草精,而是香草夾刮下來的香草子,味道更豐富,和鮮奶布丁搭檔是渾然天成;猜想是用杏仁粒搗碎而非使用杏仁粉做成的杏仁湯,多了一絲芝麻香氣,頗能玩味,且更增益鮮奶布丁的香氣;上覆薄荷葉除了裝飾外,也有加分效果。這是非常成功的一道甜點,很喜歡,喜歡到我把湯汁吃到一滴不剩,實在好吃。

之後,我點了熱咖啡,好好享受快樂的時光,不時回憶著極完美的佳餚和美酒,整套菜色都是極漂亮的演出,而餐酒搭配也是極好。我最喜歡的當然是前菜和甜點,而主菜還有加強空間,但仍是高水準的菜色。以前就知道Tutto Bello菜的水準極高,但這次,無疑是我吃過最好吃的一次,也是印象深刻的一次。主廚A-Bu最後出來和大家致意,耳聞其鵝肝為一絕,果不其然,前菜換得的鵝肝,是我印象最深刻的菜色。

慢慢地晚了,大家也依依不捨地準備離去。這是我參加過最好的餐酒會,Tutto Bello的菜也讓我印象深刻,對壽星來說,大概也是如此吧!看得出來,K大大和J大哥都非常開心,也祝他們生日快樂囉!

Gaja Barbaresco Sori Tildin 1982 (MG)
WS:94

Château Petrus 1973
WA:87
The wine of the vintage, this is the best Petrus for immediate consumption from those wines produced in the seventies. Given the prolific yield in 1973 and diluted quality of many wines, the Petrus is sensationally concentrated, rich, supple, fat, and so, so flavorful. Friends tell me that it is still a delicious wine. Anticipated maturity: Now. Last tasted, 12/84.
WS:73
Not unpleasant for a wine from such a weak vintage, with simple earthy, minty aromas and flavors. A rather green, unripe flavor detracts, however.--Petrus vertical. (JS)

Château Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 1980
WA:84
A lovely, medium-weight wine that has been very well vinified, the 1980 Pichon Lalande is delightful for current drinking. The bouquet offers spicy, cedary scents intermingled with copious ripe aromas of black currants. This is a soft, velvety, very nicely concentrated wine from a vintage considered poor to mediocre. Anticipated maturity: Now. Last tasted, 12/88.
WS:80
Still holding on, but slightly one-dimensional. Medium-bodied, with firm, slightly dry tannins and a plummy aftertaste. Drink in a hurry.--Pichon-Lalande vertical. (JS)

Domaine Gros Frère et Soeur Richebourg 1996
WS:95
Exciting, invading the senses with the most seductive red- and blackberry and spiced-up toasted oak imaginable, this full-bodied, rich wine melts like cream, with the long draw of a fine cigar. Burgundy's Cohiba. Best from 2005 through 2015. 54 cases imported. (PM)
BH:93
Pronounced aromas of earth, underbrush and wet leaves merge seamlessly into subtly complex, beautiful flavors of unusual finesse. This is not especially dense but it offers superb definition and outstanding finishing complexity. Perhaps the finest Richebourg the Domaine has produced since the vines were replanted in 1985 and 1989. 93/2010-20

Domaine des Baumard Quartz de Chaume 1990
WA:96
This wine was among those served at a tasting I attended at the Domaine des Baumards in June, 1997 which covered all the wines Jean Baumard has crafted over his career as well as some older ones (back to 1906!). This event is one of the most memorable of my life. I was amazed by the age-worthiness and extremely high quality of Baumard's wines, both in the sweet and dry offerings. But more poignantly, I was stunned that Jean Baumard would invite people from around the world to come taste, criticize, enjoy and judge every wine he had ever crafted. To have his life's work dissected in his presence, vintage by vintage, is a testimony to Baumard's courage, honesty and pride. How many of us would want to have all our work judged in such a manner? Baumard, ever modest, was his own biggest critic. Space constraints prevent me from including notes on the wines so I have only listed the best ones.
WS:89
Sweet and spicy, with honeyed, buttery orange and pear aromas and flavors, hinting at caramel on the finish. A pleasant wine to drink now.


2006年6月12日 星期一

「老」加州餐酒會......(2006.06.09)

主辦人b律師在The One舉辦了這次的餐酒會,邀請函上清楚說明了原因:「一直有人在爭論加州酒到底適不適合陳年,不如來實際試看吧!」是的,我也很好奇,如此濃郁堅實、如巨炮般的加州酒,到底是否有陳年空間,而且又有多少的變化?可不可以陳年,和陳年後的變化,是兩個不同的、要分別去探討的問題。

地點選在The One,聽說以相同價位來說,菜色和之前相比已有進步;若以之前吃過兩次的經驗,僅差強人意。這次餐酒會也無額外菜色,The One推出的是「夏漾精緻套餐」,以簡單、輕食為主的菜色料理,還是有著原創fusion的精神。

餐酒會先上白酒,兩支白酒都有相當的年紀了,而且都是赫赫有名的酒莊。與會的劉大師加碼一支紐西蘭Chardonnay白酒,正巧曾在代理商(絃道)喝過一次,印象深刻。酒名和簡單的筆記如下:


  1. Paul Hobbs Chardonnay Napa Valley Richard Dinner Vineyard 1996
    酒液呈金黃色,邊緣泛黃色,液面明亮。有著奶油、鳳梨、
    creamy vanilla、一些焦糖香氣,桶味重,香氣強度略強,略感複雜度。入口時感覺到略有酸度,酒體略強,口中有著奶油、鳳梨香氣,奶油味頗重、明顯,酒精感重。尾韻長度適中。回溫後變化較快,以甜美的桶味香氣為主,酸度和酒體搭配怡人,而且不苦(這算用木節制嗎?),頗喜歡。

  2. Kawarau Estate Chardonnay Reserve 2001(感謝劉老師提供)
    酒液呈淺金黃色,邊緣泛透明色,有層次感,液面晶亮。有著奶油、香草、鳳梨、一些礦石一些焦糖、一些燻烤香氣,香氣強度較濃郁,略感複雜度,桶味重但很均衡。入口時感覺到有酸度,酒體較強,口中有著奶油、鳳梨、礦石、一些燻烤香氣,整合得不錯,口感略苦。尾韻長度適中。回溫後有變化,不若加州酒濃厚,頗不錯的酒。

  3. Peter Michael Chardonnay Napa Valley Mon Palasir 1995
    酒液呈金黃色,顏色較
    1號酒深些,邊緣泛黃色,液面晶亮。有著鳳梨、礦石、奶油、一些香草、一些青草香氣,桶味重,香氣強度適中,略感複雜度。入口時感覺到有酸度,酒體略強,口中有著鳳梨、奶油香氣,一開始在口中的感覺有些悶,略回溫之後就好些了。尾韻長度略短,帶苦。也是以桶味為主的白酒,而且回溫之後苦的厲害,還有一股西藥味,不甚喜歡。

整體看起來,加州白酒還是有相當的陳年實力,但變化不大。陳年後,果味較褪,相對桶味更加明顯,複雜度都不若年輕時好;口感都偏重、濃郁、圓潤,不算是均衡的口感,不過酒精感也較消褪,算是變得較易入口了。最喜歡的是1號和2號酒,都有著相當的變化,而且比較不苦。大家也有投票選擇最喜歡的酒,這三支酒的得票數不相上下,都是頗受喜愛的白酒。

餐點也上來了。前菜「義大利油醋醃漬蓮藕海鮮沙拉」用的是較年輕的Balsamic醋作醬汁,搭配醃漬蓮藕和汆燙透抽,透抽有鐵鏽味,有些老,不算好,生菜新鮮反較好吃;湯品「時蔬奶油蓮子湯」的湯底是南瓜奶油湯,頗搭配白酒,底部的蓮子也煮得剛好,不過爛,是成功的湯品;前主菜「海明蝦襯菱角及綠節瓜燉飯」就是標準的燉飯,不過米飯太熟了些,不夠硬,我的明蝦換成透抽,還是有汆燙得有些老,節瓜較出色。

接下來是紅酒了,原本的五支紅酒加碼至七支,平均超過20歲的加州紅酒羅列,實在壯觀,而且重點當然是,統統喝得到囉!酒名和簡單的筆記如下:


  1. Beaulieu Vineyard Georges de Latour Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 1973
    酒液呈略深的橘紅色,邊緣泛磚紅色,液面明亮,已有老態。有著大地系、木頭、菌菇、腐葉、一些葡萄乾香氣,香氣強度略強,幾無複雜度,似乎已無法變化了。入口時感覺到有酸度,酒略強,單寧量略少且已釋出,略感澀度,有著大地、一些葡萄乾、一些雪茄香氣,香氣沒有什麼變化,而且
    down得很快。尾韻長度略短些。這是一支已經不行了的紅酒,表現單調,再放也沒意義了。

  2. Heitz Martha's Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 1982
    酒液呈深寶石紅色,邊緣泛著粉紅色,液面晶亮。有著頗濃郁的大地系、木材、菌菇、一些薄荷、一些黑醋栗香氣,略感複雜度,香氣表現頗沉、又帶有討喜感。入口時感覺到略有酸度,酒體略強,單寧量適中且已釋出,感覺到有澀度,有著大地系、黑醋栗、木材、一些薄荷、一些落葉香氣,有結構感,是做得很好的酒。尾韻長度適中。現在表現正好,後來還帶有一些巧克力、雪茄盒香氣,是做得很好的酒,非常喜歡。

  3. Shafer Hillside Select Cabernet Sauvignon 1985
    酒液呈深寶石紅色,邊緣泛著粉紅色,液面晶亮。有著略感濃郁的黑醋栗、木材、雪茄盒、一些大地系、一些葡萄乾香氣,略感複雜度,略為醒酒後更感複雜度,很漂亮。入口時感覺到有酸度,酒體略強,單寧量適中且已釋出,感覺到有澀度,很有均衡感,結構佳,口中有著黑醋栗、木材、葡萄乾、一些巧克力香氣,口感有些甜美,是支討喜的好酒,略有酒精感。尾韻長度適中。沒想到這支酒陳年之後如此討喜,現在表現正好,也很喜歡。

  4. Ridge Monte Bello Cabernet Sauvignon 1986
    酒液呈深寶石紅色,邊緣泛紅色,液面晶亮。有著很奇怪的消毒藥水(?)香氣,另有黑醋栗、木材、大地系香氣,那特怪的消毒藥水或西藥房味道久久不散,香氣強度略強,略感複雜度。入口時感覺到有酸度,酒體頗重,單寧量適中且已釋出,感覺到有澀度,口中有著黑醋栗、雪茄盒、一些葡萄乾香氣,口中香氣較好聞。尾韻長度適中。持續不斷地聞到藥味,算是這支酒最大的敗筆,在口中的表現卻很好,自己頗訝異。只是仍搞不懂,為何
    1970年的同款酒,能兩次拿到巴黎試飲會的第一名?

  5. Groth Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 1987
    酒液呈寶石紅色,邊緣泛著粉紅色、略偏紅色,液面明亮。有著生青豆(?)、紅豆(?)、大地、菌菇香氣,蔬菜味道頗重,香氣強度略強,幾無複雜度。入口時感覺略有酸度,酒體適中,單寧量略少且已釋出,而感覺到略有澀度,單寧的口感有些粉粉的,有酒精感,口中有著黑醋栗、木材、大地系香氣,不太有變化。尾韻長度適中。醒了快一個小時後,青豆仁香氣才有些淡,有著黑醋栗香氣,不過變化不大,有些單調。

  6. Inglenook 1984
    酒液呈深寶石紅色,邊緣泛著粉紅色,液面晶亮。有著皮革、黑醋栗、大地系香氣,香氣強度適中,略感複雜度。入口時感覺到略有酸度,酒體頗重,單寧量適中且已釋出,感覺到有澀度,有著堅實強勁的口感,單寧的口感有些粉粉的,口中有著黑醋栗、皮革、一些草地、一些木材香氣,尚有結構。尾韻長度略短。這支酒似乎已經過了顛峰期,變化不太足,但還有著強勁的口感。

  7. Château Cos d'Estournel 1989
    酒液呈深寶石紅色,中央深不透光,邊緣泛著粉紅色,液面晶亮。有著有著頗濃郁的黑醋栗、肉桂、雪茄盒、杉木、烤肉、燻烤香氣,略感複雜度,頗濃、有澎湃感的香氣中藏有變化,很美妙。入口時感覺到有酸度,酒體頗重,單寧量適中且已釋出,感覺到有澀度,口中有著黑醋栗、雪茄、煙草、木材、一些黑莓果醬、一些大地系(松露)香氣,變化豐富,有結構,做得很好的酒。尾韻長度適中。這支酒一開始表現還不錯,但越醒越漂亮,變化更多,是支不可多得的好酒,非常喜歡。

整體看起來,除了10號酒是Bordeaux紅酒之外,其它加州紅酒表現都還不錯,不過整體落差頗大。5號和6號酒有著不同的風格,前者較深沉,有變化,後者較討喜,但都算是可以陳年的酒;9號酒也算是表現不錯,現在喝最好,再放可能就不一定會更好了;4號酒實在太老了,且原本就不是傑出的酒,陳年之後更無意義;8號有特殊生青豆香氣,不是很喜歡。最納悶的是7號酒,那久久不散的西藥味,實在影響鼻子的感覺很大,不過也有不少酒友喜歡這支酒。

以這次的經驗,以頂級(或旗艦)酒款來說,加州白酒陳年空間大概是十年,不過其實陳年並沒有太大的意義;紅酒的差異就比較大,酒莊影響的程度較大,同樣都是酒莊最好的酒,陳年實力可能十多年到二十、三十年不等,這也算看得出酒莊的功力吧!若是說「好的頂級紅酒較有陳年空間」,又很有事後譇葛亮的味道,所以還是有機會試試看囉!

最後每人三票,投給自己最喜歡的酒,我投給5號、6號、10號酒。14人投票,結果揭曉,5號酒毫無疑問地獲得最高票,獲得壓倒性的13票,實在很好;接下來是6號、7號、8號、10號酒,也都有相當的票數;4號和9號酒獲得0票,很慘。

邊喝的時候,我的主菜「爐烤鹿排佐巴薩米可紅酒野莓醬汁」也上桌了,由紐西蘭進口的鹿排,可能少了油封,肉汁較少,不過口感頗均勻,野莓醬汁略甜,有些重,有些蓋住鹿排的香氣,只能算不錯。甜點是巧克力蛋糕,口感稱細,不錯,搭配的是會慢慢開花的茉莉綠茶,很具視覺效果,口感也不錯。最後以甜白酒作結,是主辦人喜愛的德國甜白酒:
Joh. Jos. Christoffel Erben Riesling Eiswein Ürziger Würzgarten 2002 (375mL)

酒液呈淺金黃色,邊緣泛著透明,有層次感的酒液,液面晶亮。有著鳳梨、水蜜桃、礦石、蜂蜜、一些青草香氣,香氣感覺頗濃郁,有複雜度,很有變化感。入口時感覺到酸度頗高,酒體頗重,很甜口,蜂蜜般的口感,口中有著蜂蜜;鳳梨、礦石香氣,很有結構,做得極好。尾韻長度略長。

Peter Michael Chardonnay Napa Valley Mon Palasir 1995
WA:93
I should remind readers that the 1995 Chardonnays were just released. They are among the finest this winery has produced. My ratings are as follows: 1995 Mon Plaisir (93). This wine is extremely difficult to find in the retail market, so readers should inquire about getting on the winery's mailing list.  All of Peter Michael's top wines, including the Chardonnays, are bottled without filtration. Readers should make it a point to visit this winery situated in Knights Valley, not far from the Napa/Sonoma county line. The quality is extraordinary, and the commitment and talent of the winery staff laudatory. Moreover, the winery seems committed to achieving even greater quality.

Beaulieu Vineyard Georges de Latour Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 1973
WA:88
Last Tasted 3/92 This was an impressive showing for the 1973. At almost twenty years of age, it has matured gracefully. The color revealed a slight amber/orange rim, and the nose was full of ripe, sweet, black and red fruits intermingled with scents of oak and herbs. In the mouth, this silky, velvety textured wine exhibited fine richness, depth, and a smooth, lush, immensely enjoyable finish. Drink it over the next 5-10 years.
WS:76
Barely alive, with herb and tea character and a dry, acidic finish.--Georges de Latour Private Reserve vertical. 23,400 cases made. (JS)

Heitz Martha's Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 1982
WS:94 (CellarSelection)
Powerful and concentrated, yet with rounded edges that display the depth and finesse that is apparent in this beautifully crafted wine. Minty and chocolatey, it's a fine example of what Martha's has to offer.

Shafer Hillside Select Cabernet Sauvignon 1985
WA:90
With a finished PH of 3.41 (still too low for any top-notch Cabernet Sauvignon), this wine's rich fruit is able to fight its way through the wall of tartness. The healthy, medium to dark ruby/purple color is followed by an elegant yet restrained nose of spice, tobacco, and red currants. The wine is medium to full-bodied, with excellent richness, good spice, and a clean, compact, long, rich finish. At its finest, this is an elegant, classic, sculptured Cabernet Sauvignon that can be drunk now or over the next 10-15 years.
WS:91 (CellarSelection)
Dense in color and flavor, with rich, complex, cedar, herb, currant and cherry flavors that are elegant and stylish, supple tannins and fine balance. Deceptively intense and elegant; the flavors build on the finish. Drinkable now. 1,800 cases made.

Ridge Monte Bello Cabernet Sauvignon 1986
WA:86
Given all the great Cabernets that have emerged from this legendary producer, the 1986 Monte Bello remains one of the winery's most monolithic as well as perplexing wines. The color is a healthy deep ruby with little signs of age, but it does not possess the saturated purple color of the great vintages. The innocuous bouquet offers up loamy, earthy, mineral, and red and blackcurrant aromas. The wine is compact and clipped, with crisp acidity and a narrowly constructed, moderately tannic finish. It does not taste old, nor does it taste particularly promising. It is straightforward and pleasant, but uninspiring. The tasting notes for this section are from two single blind tastings, one conducted in May, 1996, in California, and the other in June, 1996, in Baltimore.

Groth Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 1987
WA:86
After enjoying magnificent Cabernets in 1984, 1985, and 1986, I was disappointed with the regular 1987 Groth Cabernet, which I found excessively vegetal and bizarre.  The 1987 Reserve, however, is a better wine, with an impressively opaque dark ruby/purple color. The nose offers up aromas of sweet new oak, bell peppers and weedy Cabernet fruit. While the wine is concentrated and rich on the palate, it does not possess the stature or profound qualities of the '84, '85, or '86. I am surprised by the near vegetal character of the Cabernet fruit in both of the 1987 Groth offerings. In spite of that, the Reserve displays enough positive characteristics to merit a recommendation. Drink it over the next 8-12 years.
WS:90
Smooth and supple, marked by nuances of herb, sage, tea, ash and bell pepper. Underneath is a tasty, flavorful core of ripe black cherry, stewed plum and currant. Tannins are mild and polished.--1987 California Cabernet horizontal. Drink now through 2005. (JL)

Inglenook 1984

Château Cos d'Estournel 1989
WA:88
While the 1989 Cos d'Estournel will, in all likelihood, prove to be an outstanding wine, I would have to rate it behind the quality of the chateau's splendid 1982, 1985, 1986, and 1990. It is a medium-bodied, rich, concentrated wine displaying an impressive color, and a nose of super-ripe black fruits, toasty oak, and licorice. It tastes like a blend of the 1985 and 1982, although it is neither as elegant as the 1985 nor as powerful and opulent as the 1982. The finish is long, alcoholic, and lush. Anticipated maturity: Now-2009. Last tasted, 7/93.
WS:95
A huge, seamless wine of fabulous elegance. Deep, dark-ruby color. Intense aromas of blackberries, spices, mushrooms and bark. Full-bodied and extremely silky, with a long, long finish. Seductive as hell.--1989 Bordeaux horizontal. Best after 2002. (JS)

Joh. Jos. Christoffel Erben Riesling Eiswein Ürziger Würzgarten 2002
WA:93
The 2002 Riesling Eiswein Urziger Wurzgarten's jammy apricot-scented nose is more reminiscent of a tangy Beerenauslese's than an Eiswein's. It has spectacular focus, precision, and reveals loads of sweet, zesty limes, white pepper, apricot, and lemon flavors in its driven personality. This concentrated but not super-rich Eiswein should be drunk over the next 40 years. All of Weingut Joh. Jos. Christoffel Erben's wines revealed relatively high levels of CO2 (a natural by-product of fermentation that disappears with time). Readers who find this trait unpleasant should wait 1-2 years before opening any of this estate's 2002s.