2007年1月17日 星期三

周二一支會小記......(2007.1.16)

這次的「周二一支會」輪到小弟開酒,為了一解之前的鳥氣(?),所以就開兩支酒喝喝,反正人還算夠多,不過挑酒開就麻煩了,光是想著「開什麼酒」就猶豫了好久……

認真會成員兩位:聖E大和小e大,不管下班累不累,都得猜酒,所以我事先包好一支酒。拔掉鉛封開瓶,把塞子和鉛封藏起來(因為上面有答案),再把酒瓶用鋁箔紙包起來,sloped shoulder窈窕的瓶身曲線一覽無遺;另外,我還給了提示:「這支酒我已經開過一次,且兩位都有喝過。」不過,給了提示,他們還是猜不到(這樣子講得好像我很奸),兩個人的答案幾乎都是2002 Bourgogne,某大還猜是Beaune一級或村莊級。

答案如下,這樣棒的Gamay被猜成是Pinot Noir,著實讓自己好好的爽了一陣子,某大說這根本不像Gamay;另一位某大還說他腦袋的資料庫找不到這支酒,他認為這酒他沒喝過,結果答案揭曉後,他就想去自傷了;其它人喝到都不相信這是一支Beaujolais,神奇啊!酒名和筆記如下:
Georges Duboeuf Fleurie Prestige 2002

酒液呈略深的紫紅色,邊緣泛紅色,液面晶亮。一開始香氣有著沉悶,有著略濃郁的黑莓果、薄荷香氣,略帶一些加州李和花香調,香氣略感複雜度,似乎不只如此能耐。入口時感覺到有酸度,酒體略強,單寧量適中且已釋出,感覺到有澀度,單寧口感圓潤、頗具均衡感,有些細緻感,口中有著黑莓果、李子、花香調,花香頗明顯。尾韻長度略短些。
略醒一下後,香水花香調性更明顯,
Gamay特殊香蕉油香氣被修飾得漂亮,入口更細緻些,更有均衡、美妙的口感,實在像漂亮、正在盛開的花朵,頗喜歡。

猜酒猜完了,不管猜對或猜錯,都有好酒喝。下午看了看,選了這支酒,因為更想多了解它(和它背後的故事),就開來試看看:
Domaine Alain Michelot Nuits-St.-Georges 1er Cru Les Vaucrains 1999

酒液呈深寶石紅色,邊緣泛粉紅色、略偏紅色,液面晶亮。有著略濃郁的覆盆子、紅莓果、大地系(新鮮泥土)香氣,略帶一些皮革、燻烤、青草地香氣,香氣略感複雜度,有著堅實方正的感覺。入口時感覺到有酸度,酒體略重,單寧量充足而感覺有澀度,口感堅實,甚至有些緊澀,單寧口感有些粗,口中有著紅莓果、覆盆子、泥土、一些皮革、一些草地香氣。尾韻長度適中。
是很有距離感、風格一絲不苟的酒,有點冷漠,醒後才知道酒質的堅實緊密,應是充分反應書中對
Nuits-St.-Georges紅酒的印象吧!

酒友K也贊助德白一支,印象中是第二次喝到,這次表現更好,實在精采:
Weingut Robert Weil Rheingau Riesling Kabinett 2005

酒液呈淺檸檬綠色,邊緣透明、有層次感,液面晶亮。有著礦石、柑橘香氣,略帶一些青草地、烤吐司、蜂蜜香氣,香氣強度適中,略感複雜度,回溫之後花蜜、柑橘香氣較明顯。入口時感覺有酸度,酒體適中,酸度略清脆但仍保留均衡感,口感略甜,口中以萊姆皮、柑橘、礦石香氣為主。尾韻長度略長些,酸度拉長了強度。
好喝的
Kabinett,就是比印象中的Kabinett都好一些,Robert Weil釀酒功力實在不容置疑。

附記:前一天喝到了Domaine G. Roumier Morey-St.-Denis 1er Cru Clos de la Bussiére (Seul Propriétaire) 2002,深寶石紅色的年輕酒液,有著略濃郁的紅莓果、覆盆子、森林底層(泥土和樹葉)、一些細緻花香調,醒開之後有均衡感,似乎喝出了Georges Roumier紅酒的基調,不由對照漫畫「神之&635;」第一使徒的描述,扣除兩隻蝴蝶,形容得實在有像啊……

Georges Duboeuf Fleurie Prestige 2002
WA:89-91
Spiced oak aromas are found in the nose of the 2002 Fleurie Cuvee Prestige. An expansive, medium-bodied, lush wine of outstanding depth, it is concentrated, spicy, and expressive. Oak-laced sweet red and black cherries make up its powerful flavor profile. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2010.
WS:91 (Smart Buys)
Violet, blackberry and boysenberry aromas and flavors unfurl in this silky, lush Fleurie, with extra notes of spice, toast, vanilla and minerals. Fruit echoes on the long, pure finish. Really, really fine. Drink now through 2005. 2,000 cases imported. (JM)

Domaine G. Roumier Morey-St.-Denis 1er Cru Clos de la Bussiére (Seul Propriétaire) 2002
WS:90
Black cherry and spice aromas and flavors are restrained, building in intensity on the palate. Very tannic and firmly structured, displaying vibrancy on the finish, with plenty in reserve. Best from 2007 through 2012. 1,200 cases made. (BS)
BH:87

Very ripe red fruit aromas, in fact this is a good deal riper than the Chambolle villages with plenty of earth nuances and an interesting game and underbrush quality. The moderately rustic, punchy flavors are softened by the ample mid-palate sap and round tannins and though this is a robust and rustic effort, it is more elegant than usual though I would still not call this an elegant wine. 87/2010+



2007年1月10日 星期三

酒友K慶生會-趴吐(周二新年大亂鬥)......(2007.1.2)

跨年之後的第一喝,就是如此精采的酒,光是做夢都會笑了吧……

酒友K可能是跨年後心情大好,也可能是生日將近,更可能是上次慶生會喝得不夠盡興(?),這次藉著跨年後第一次周二一支會的機會,開了數支好酒。一到場就傻了眼,連Magnum都搬出來了……當天與會酒友不少,壽星K大伙都喝得非常盡興,絕對是值得一記的。有些問題不是在喝酒時想得到,尤其是一個很嚴重的問題,就等寫完後再問囉!

酒單和簡單的筆記如下:

Bodegas Alejandro Fernández Ribera del Duero Pesquerá Millennium Reserva 1996 (MG)
酒液呈深不透光的寶石紅色,邊緣泛紅色,液面晶亮。有著頗濃郁的巧克力、草梗、葡萄乾香氣,略帶一些大地系、煙燻、橡木、菸草葉香氣,香氣略感複雜度。入口時感覺有酸度,酒體頗重,單寧量適中且已釋出,可感覺到有澀度,一開始酸度頗高,口感有些粗糙,略醒酒後有變好些,口中以巧克力、草梗、橡木香氣為主。尾韻長度適中。非常有名的酒,而且又是
Magnum,保存得好,喝得很開心。

Château Boyd-Catenac 2001
酒液呈深不透光的紫紅色,邊緣泛粉紅色、有層次感,液面晶亮。有著濃郁的巧克力、煙燻、黑醋栗、黑李子、黑莓果醬香氣,帶一些橡木香氣,頗討喜、新派的風格。入口時感覺有酸度,重度酒體,單寧量充足且感抓口,可感覺有澀度,強壯、討喜的新派風格,口中有著黑醋栗、煙燻、黑李子、黑莓果醬、巧克力、一些橡木香氣,非常年輕的酒。尾韻長度適中。標準美式高分酒,但少了那分細緻感,總覺得它少了
Margaux的那分細緻感,是太年輕了嗎?

Clos des Papes Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2000
深寶石紅色的酒液,邊緣泛粉紅色,液面晶亮.有著頗濃郁的紅莓果、薄荷胡椒、青椒香氣,略帶一些燻烤和陳皮香氣,可感覺到有複雜度,仍有結構感,而且更方正些。入口時感覺到酸度,重度酒體,單寧量充足而感覺到有澀度,口感仍略帶甜美,口中有著紅莓果、薄荷胡椒、一些紅色漿果果醬型的香氣,已發展出獨有的結構感,很漂亮的酒。尾韻長度略長些。這支和跨年是同一支酒,跨年時只喝了
1/3,所以又帶回來繼續喝,表現比剛開時更好哩!

Domaine Dujac Echézeaux 2001
酒液呈深寶石紅色,邊緣泛粉紅色,液面晶亮。有著頗濃郁的覆盆子、紅莓果香氣,略帶一些橡木、燻烤、樹皮、溼草地香氣,香氣略感複雜度。入口時感覺有酸度,酒體頗重,單寧量充足而感覺到有澀度,隱藏著強勁的風格,似乎需要被喚醒,口中有著紅莓果、覆盆子、一些香辛料、一些燻烤、一些胡椒香氣,頗奇妙的體驗。尾韻長度適中。全場唯一一支
Burgundy紅酒,非常喜歡,是做得很棒的Dujac,讓我更想嘗試他們的Morey-St.-Denis特級園好酒啊!

Domaine Guy Amiot et Fils Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru "Les Demoiselles" 1996
酒液呈略淺的金黃色,邊緣泛黃,液面晶亮。有著頗濃郁的鳳梨、杏桃、柑橘、萊姆皮香氣,略帶一些礦石、氧化系、堅果、奶油香氣,香氣略感複雜度,頗有氣質的感覺。入口時感覺有酸度,酒體略重,均衡的口感帶著優雅的氣質,口中有著鳳梨、柑橘、杏桃、一些氧化系香氣,美妙。尾韻長度適中。好漂亮的白酒,這若是全場唯一的白酒,我會一直記得它……

Domaine du Pegaü Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Résérvé 1999
酒已經開瓶一天,剩半瓶。酒液呈深寶石紅色,邊緣泛粉紅色,液面晶亮。有著略濃郁的烏梅、黑莓果醬、草梗香氣,略帶一些花香和青椒香氣,香氣略感複雜度。入口時感覺有酸度,重度酒體,單寧量充足且已釋出,可感覺有澀度,口中有著烏梅、黑莓果、胡椒、一些太妃糖、一些花香調,應是已醒開的酒,做得漂亮。尾韻長度適中。醒開的「屁股」實在漂亮,香氣撲鼻,應是最好的時候吧!

Joseph Drouhin Batârd-Montrachet 1996
酒液呈淺金黃色,邊緣泛透明、有層次感,液面晶亮。有著頗濃郁的鳳梨、柑橘、礦石、奶油、萊姆皮香氣,略帶一些巧克力燻烤香氣(李先生常說的「碳燒咖啡」味),香氣可感複雜度,是隱藏著個性的好酒。入口時感覺到有酸度,酒體頗重,酸度一開始略有清脆感,似未成熟,口中有著鳳梨、礦石、一些奶油、一些焦糖、一些巧克力香氣,頗美妙的酒。尾韻長度略長些,頗能回味。後來還變化出奶油糖香氣,很美妙,而且非常喜歡,似乎還有繼續發展的潛力?

Poggio Antico Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 1997
酒已倒入
decanter約一個半小時。酒液呈深寶石紅色,邊緣泛紅色,液面晶亮。有著頗濃郁的紅莓果、煙燻、橡木香氣,略帶一些薄荷、青草、大地系香氣,香氣略感複雜度。入口時感覺到有酸度,重度酒體,單寧量充足且已釋出,可感覺有澀度,口中有著紅莓果、一些大地系、一些薄荷香氣,有著強勁的風格,但也被時間馴化而略變得均衡了。尾韻長度適中。

Ciacci Piccolomini d'Aragona Rosso Toscana IGT "Ateo" 1999
酒液呈深寶石紅色,邊緣泛紅,液面晶亮。有著頗濃郁的黑醋栗、黑莓果、黑李子香氣,略帶一些燻烤、燒烤牛排香氣,香氣略感複雜度。入口時感覺有酸度,酒體頗重,單寧量充足而感覺到有澀度,略有酒精感,強勁且討喜,口中有著黑旦困黑李子、一些燻烤、一些胡椒香氣。尾韻長度適中。放在
Riserva之後喝,感覺有些淡,要重新感覺才行了……

Bruno Paillard Brut Blanc de Blancs Champagne 1995
酒液呈略淺的金黃色,邊緣泛透明、有層次感,液面晶亮,氣泡細緻、均勻。有著略濃郁的酵母、礦石、鳳梨、清新水果香氣,略帶一些青草香氣,香氣略感複雜度。入口時感覺有酸度,酒體適中,清度有些高且清脆,口中有著酵母、礦石、鳳梨、一些小白花香、一些燻烤香氣,頗具細緻感。尾韻長度適中。細瘦的
Blanc de Blancs口感,酸度高但能重新喚醒味蕾,頗佳。

Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Champagne Cuvée Palmes d'Or 1990
酒液呈略淺的金黃色,邊緣泛黃色,液面晶亮,氣泡細緻、均勻。有著略濃郁的鳳梨香氣,略帶一些杏桃、酵母、礦石香氣,略感複雜度。入口時感覺有酸度,酒體略重,似已成熟,口中有著奶油糖、鳳梨、礦石、一些酵母香氣,有粗獷感。尾韻長度適中。

嚴重的問題嗎?當然是……跨年之後的第一喝,就已經喝到這種程度了,這一年還能喝什麼?!這麼講是很欠打沒錯啦,不過心裡總是會這麼嘀咕著……對我來說,能挑戰的酒太多,所以諸如「這一年還能喝什麼」的問題,對我而言,都是小事,不過對某些大字輩的酒友來說,可能就……

後記:我的確要多努力才行,前幾天上網玩了這個BBR做的老遊戲,我只拿到80%97/120),看著名人榜裡一堆滿分的人,就知道要做多少的努力了……

Bodegas Alejandro Fernández Ribera del Duero Pesquerá Millennium Reserva 1996
WS:95
This inky red is plush and mouth-filling, with an amazing concentration of plum, boysenberry, chocolate and licorice flavors over muscular yet graceful tannins. It's thoroughly modern in style, yet remains deeply rooted in its terroir. Best from 2003 through 2007. 2,500 cases made. (TM)

Château Boyd-Catenac 2001
WA:90
Perhaps the finest wine I have ever tasted from Boyd-Cantenac (time will tell if the 2003 is superior), this deep ruby/purple-colored 2001 exhibits sweet, seriously endowed flavors of licorice, black currants, earth, and spice box. Medium-bodied and elegant yet intensely flavorful, it reveals more depth, texture, and persistence than any of its predecessors. There is also some tannin to be shed. Bravo! Anticipated maturity: 2007-2017.
WS:90
Wonderful bright fruit character, with a hint of very good vanilla oak. Medium- to full-bodied, with an enticing freshness and excellent length. Serious stuff. Something is changing here. Best after 2008. 5,000 cases made. (JS)

Clos des Papes Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2000
WS:87
Very pretty, almost delicate, of medium body and medium concentration. The soft and supple tannins are sleek and easy to appreciate. It'll be hard to resist enjoying it on release, with its burst of red and black fruit on the succulent finish. Drink now through 2006. 8,915 cases made. (PM)

Domaine Dujac Echézeaux 2001
WA:88-91
The 2001 Echezeaux offers aromas reminiscent of spicy, peppery black cherries. On the palate, this light to medium-bodied wine is elegant, well-detailed, and fresh. It bursts on the attack, revealing lively blackberries and dark cherries. This refined, expressive effort also possesses a long, ripe finish. Drink it between 2005 and 2010.
BH:92
Utterly seductive black cherry fruit nose with abundant Vosne spice notes and big, rich, full, mouth coating flavors with a fine sense of minerality and super finishing intensity. This doesn’t have the density and sap of the Clos de la Roche but this is a very impressive wine in its own right and is every bit as powerful. 92/2009-16

Domaine Guy Amiot et Fils Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru "Les Demoiselles" 1996
WA:93
Intense richness could be discerned on Amiot's Puligny-Montrachet Les Demoiselles' tightly wound nose the day of my tasting (it was too muted to reveal specific aromas). Its full-bodied flavor profile explodes on the palate with awesome depth, power, elegance, minerals, flowers, pears, and stones. This wine's velvety-textured and perfectly-balanced character lingers on the palate for at least 30 seconds. Projected maturity: 2003-2010.
WS:95
Intriguing style. Very distinctive, displaying vivid toast and mineral aromas, yet fresh, packed with intense flavors of smoke, mineral, pear and citrus combined with a thick texture. It remains firm and lively right through the long, long finish. Impressive. Best from 2001 through 2008. 100 cases made. (PM)

Domaine du Pegaü Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Résérvé 1999
WA:92
A powerful, concentrated 1999 Chateauneuf du Papes was produced at Chateau Pegau. The dense ruby/purple-colored 1999 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Reservee boasts a powerful bouquet of pepper, garrigue, black fruits, and earth. Full-bodied and expansive, with sweet tannin giving it a more open-knit, accessible style than most young vintages of Pegau, this is a wine to drink while waiting for the 1998 and 1995 to become fully mature. Like all of this estate's red wines, it was bottled with neither fining nor filtration.
WS:93
Super-opulent. Full-bodied and thick, with rich, ripe fruit flavors that taste sweet mid-palate. Wonderful, supple, velvety finish. Delicious. Drink now through 2015. 6,250 cases made. (PM)

Joseph Drouhin Batârd-Montrachet 1996
WA:94
The Batard-Montrachet possesses fabulously intense anise and honeysuckle aromas as well as an expansive, full-bodied, and elegant character. Layers of minerals, white peaches, buttered toast, and sweet pears are found in this lively, highly focused, and superbly persistent wine. Anticipated maturity: 2003-2010. All of Drouhin's whites, with the sole exception of the Montrachet, were bottled between early September and the end of October, 1997.
WS:95
Elegant and sleek, full-bodied, with very ripe fruit, this is a balanced beauty, but don't expect a showy, big white. Instead, its subtle pear, lemon, orange, freshly cut grass, mineral and honey notes grow on you like a slow-burning fuse. The seductive, supple finish is smartly toasted just-so for ultimate balance. Classic Drouhin winemaking style. Drink now through 2010. (PM)

Poggio Antico Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 1997
WS:95
Fabulous aromas of exotic fruit, with violets, lavender and roses. Full-bodied, loads of ripe fruit, yet there's a fresh berry, black pepper and vanilla character. Long finish. This is concentrated and needs time. Best after 2005. 1,600 cases made. (JS)

Ciacci Piccolomini d'Aragona Rosso Toscana IGT "Ateo" 1999
WA:92
Mama Mia! The 1999 Ateo is a brilliant effort from this prodigious producer. It is a blend of 45% Sangiovese, 35% Merlot, and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. The wine possesses a deep, saturated garnet/plum color in addition to a pure, sweet bouquet of saddle leather aromas intertwined with black currants, licorice, tobacco, and plums. Elegant yet powerful, medium to full-bodied, with sweet tannin and enough acidity to provide definition, it can be enjoyed over the next 10-12 years.
WS:88
Attractive blackberry and cherry aromas, with a hint of tarragon. Medium-bodied, with fine tannins and a silky aftertaste. Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Best after 2002. 3,200 cases made. (JS)

Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Champagne Cuvée Palmes d'Or 1990
WA:95
A forward cuvee that will last for another decade. It's richness is exquisite. This will be a relatively long-lived, intense Champagne.
WS:87
A full-bodied Champagne that combines ripe fruit with a generous texture. Subtle vanilla and toast nuances linger on the finish. Drink now through 2001. 5,000 cases made.



2007年1月7日 星期日

My Top 10 in 2006

一年又過去了,先祝長久閱讀網誌的朋友們,新年快樂!

又是公佈自己評選Top 10的時候,考慮許久,決定今年只公布Top 10、和數支物超所值的便宜酒,而不再分自購、其它之類的,也不增加x-factor,也不再post「落落長」的酒單,一切以簡單、低調為主,雖然免不了有一堆同分酒,但這比較屬於我自己的風格。

先公布幾支這一年喝到、又是自己買的超值酒,只列酒名和分數,有一些酒說不定還買得到:
Gérard Bertrand-Château L'Haspitalet Coteaux du Languedoc La Clape "La Réserve" 2003
My Score: 92+
Enrico Pierazzuoli Colli della Toscana Centrale Gioveto (Tenuta Cantagallo) 2001
My Score: 91+
Maglieri McLaren Vale Shiraz 'Steve Maglieri' 1999
My Score: 91
E. Guigal Hermitage (Blanc) 2000
My Score: 91
Tenuta Sette Ponti Toscana IGT "Crognolo" 2003
My Score: 90+

緊接著公布Top 10。今年Top 10篩選的條件如下:


  • 我自己買的酒。

  • 有寫下品酒筆記的酒。

  • 評分90分以上。

僅有第二點作了小小的改變,我自己實在很難說明何為「正式品飲過程」,再加上這一年自己用了適合自己使用的品酒筆記用紙,寫筆記如虎添翼,所以稍微修改一下。

首先公佈第十名,因為2006年這酒喝過兩次,分數又不一樣,平均之後就被拉下來了,只好放在第十名:

Campogiovanni Brunello di Montalcino 1997
My Score: 92+,94

第一次在周二一支會上喝的,有點悶,似乎喝不出它的變化,而且一悶就悶了兩個半小時,躺在
decanter裡一動也不動。後來再喝,才逐漸感覺到香水花香,新鮮草莓香氣至此展現,混合青草、草莓、花香、木材、燻烤、松露香氣,單寧拉高些,正好搭配高酸度和略重的酒體,達成口感最美妙的平衡,喝不到它渙散的樣子。
第二次是
Jasmin慶生會上開的,搭配松露薯條,事先decant一個半小時,頗深的寶石紅色,濃郁的覆盆子、大地系、木桶香氣,略帶一些濃郁果醬、煙燻、奶油、燒烤、大地系香氣,似乎是醒開了,口感頗強勁,但又有極好的結構,能給人均衡感,香氣更豐富,不時竄出漂亮的花香,比第一次喝到的還要好哩!

接著跳過第九、八、七名,直接公佈有四支酒並列的第六名:

Château Margaux 1979
My Score: 94

「滿桌盡飲黃金酒之八千會」上喝到,一開始便有著異常年輕的酒色,豐富多變的大地系、落葉、森林底層、松露、草地、泥土香氣,略帶一些雪松、杉木、黑李、梅子香氣,單寧口感如鵝絨般細緻綿長,又能感覺兼具高雅的氣質,酸度和酒體已達均衡,使用
Riedel Sommelier Bordeaux Grand Cru的大酒杯,沒有封閉的香氣感受,後段香氣仍維持其強度和變化,異常的長命,似乎等不到它下降的時候,這才是成熟Margaux的真味吧!聽說dio大和AA大都帶了一些剩下的酒回去,一樣非常精采哩!

Château Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 1979
My Score: 94

「九月認真會」的會後慶生會開的,眾酒友幫忙慶生,它也沒讓大家失望,深寶石紅色的酒液,邊緣略泛橘紅色,濃郁的黑醋栗、泥土芬芳、松露、杉木、陳皮(藥草)、烏梅香氣,略帶一些李子香氣,單寧充足,
Pauillac強勁風格依舊,口感很均衡,做得很好。dioLalande的老公和Lalande夫人的風格本就不同,老公的酒較強勁堅實,夫人的酒則較雅致、豔麗些,這支是Lalande的老公釀製,強勁風格主導著,很喜歡。

Château Lynch-Bages 1996
My Score: 94

在天母店,大家再為小的辦了一場慶生會,我準備了這支酒試試,深不透光的寶石紅色酒液,濃郁的黑醋栗、李子、黑莓果、煙燻、杉木香氣,隱隱的青草、香水花香調,是有複雜度的好酒,單寧充足、抓口,強勁堅實的
Pauillac風格在此展現,實在太漂亮了。另外decant一個半小時後,香氣更加馥郁奔放,偶爾會竄出巧克力、燻烤、花香,桶子和烘烤香氣和果味融合在一起,口感勁強,結構很棒,非常可口。這似乎才是Lynch-Bages會成名的水準,也才知道,原來五級酒莊也可以做得如此精采。

Krug Brut Champagne Grande Cuvée NV
My Score: 94

這是舊標的小瓶香檳,淺金黃色酒液,邊緣有些透明感,氣泡多又綿密、均勻持久,鳳梨、堅果、杏仁果、烤吐司、酵母香氣,略帶一些玉米、礦石、蘋果香氣,口中酸度高,很有結構,而且變化豐富多變,明顯感覺到氣泡在舌上跳動的感覺,非常漂亮的香檳,而且尾韻很長很長,酸度殘留舌上,拉長舌苔的感受。只能說,
Krug就是Krug,喝過無年份、年份、RoséCollection之後,除了Krug,實在難以再找到同樣的感動……

接著,也跳過第五名,因為這次的第四名也有兩位:

Clos des Papes Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2000
My Score: 94+
2006
年的最後一天開了這支酒,慶祝跨年,深寶石紅色的酒液,有著頗濃郁的胡椒、青椒、黑莓果、乾燥香料草香氣,略感一些大地系、木材香氣,雖有複雜度但無法盡現,口感有些甜美,但隱藏其後的是濃郁強勁的南隆個性:熱情的胡椒和莓果香氣,強勁的口感,還有隱藏得很好、得要努力醒才能找得到的單寧,口中有著濃郁的黑莓果醬、葡萄乾、胡椒、青椒、青草、橡木、燻烤、一些新鮮泥土香氣。感覺這酒意猶未盡,仍有許多可發揮空間,而且只喝了1/3瓶,剩下的酒就2007年再喝囉!

Alois Kracher Neusiedlersee Welschriesling Trockenbeerenauslese 'Zwischen den Seen' No. 8 2001
My Score: 94+

在紅利喝到的,是她的慶生會用酒之一,金黃色的酒液,極有透明感,濃郁的蜂蜜、糖漬鳳梨、糖漬荔枝、香蕉油、一些礦石、一些白花、一些萊姆皮香氣,重甜的口感但不過份厚重,酸甜感覺頗均衡,是濃郁豐厚的風格,尾韻長度略長些,足酸和蜂蜜口感綿延著。第一次喝到
Kracher的酒,果然馥郁地讓人印象深刻,如果是頂級德國TBA呢?

接著要公布前三名了。不過……又沒有第三名了,第二名還是有兩支酒,總不好打了分數再改分數吧?所以,兩支就兩支:

Domaine de Beaurenard Châteauneuf-du-Pape "Boisrenard" 2003
My Score: 96

跨年第一喝,就喝到這支高分酒,有著深不透光的紫紅色酒液,豐富濃郁的李子、黑櫻桃香氣,果香豐盈,略帶一些煙燻、胡椒、奶油、植物梗系(
or木桶)香氣,隱隱感覺到細緻的變化,入口時感覺強勁中帶有果醬甜味,豐腴討喜又不過份濃郁厚重,極有均衡感,口中變化出一些焦糖香氣,莓果香氣很明顯。Decant後還變化出花香、焦糖香氣,不時出現的草莓、黑莓果香氣讓這支酒的變化多端,實在不忍釋手。
Domaine de Beaurenard
位在Châteauneuf-du-Pape,原創辦人Bois Renard169512 16日創立酒莊,目前由家族的第六代PaulRegine和他們兒子FrédéricDaniel聯手經營,種植紅葡萄70% Grenache10% Syrah10% Mourvèdre10% Cinsault和其它葡萄品種,白葡萄30% Clairette30% Grenache Blanc25% Bourboulene15%其它品種。他們結合現代和傳統,使用機器將所有葡萄去梗,輕微壓榨破皮後再送入可自動踩皮的不鏽鋼溫控釀酒槽(一部分是木槽)發酵1531天,僅使用葡萄皮上的天然酵母,並在20℃低溫浸皮以萃取顏色和單寧,接著放入大型橡木桶裡陳放915個月後裝瓶,使用5%新橡木桶,必要時會使用攪桶、換桶、澄清等動作。旗艦酒「Boisrenard」是為紀念創辦人而命名,僅在65英畝的葡萄園挑選最好的老葡萄(70100歲)釀製,超低產量(每公頃1500~2000公升),主要以Grenache為主(75%以上)進行調配,並拉長發酵時間,調配完畢再陳放在木桶中18個月,使用20%新橡木桶,不過濾,僅使用蛋白澄清後直接裝瓶,再放在自己酒窖中一段時間才上市。

Domaine Zind Humbrecht Alsace Grand Cru Gueberschwihr Goldert Gewürztraminer Vendange Tardive 2002
My Score: 96

小的曾在紅利舉辦一次「甜酒下午茶會」,這支酒就是用酒之一,有著透明感的金黃色酒液,頗濃郁的杏桃、鳳梨、香蕉、荔枝、一些蜂蜜、一些
zesty fruit香氣,變化豐富、漂亮,有酸度的重酒體,似乎有點空洞,結構又厚實,難以形容的均衡質感,尾韻長度略長些。當天還用它搭配,那些微的空洞感和巧克力非常搭配哩!
Domaine Zind Humbrecht
位於AlsaceTurckheim村,曾是工程師和科學家的莊主Olivier Humbrecht,極富研究和實驗精神,對葡萄酒有著莫名的熱情。他在1988年拿到英國「葡萄酒大師(Master of Wine)」資格,並且是第一位拿到MW的法國人,他對葡萄酒幾乎完美的態度,也可由他的酒莊略窺一二;他也是第一個將「自然動力種植法」引進Alsace區的人。Domaine Zind Humbrecht的白酒大多不甜,但使用Pinot GrisGewürztramener釀製的Vendanges Tardives等級甜白酒也極有水準。

再來就是第一名了,沒有兩個第一名,第一名就只有一個:

Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey 2003
My Score: 97+

小的曾在紅利舉辦一次「甜酒下午茶會」,這支酒就是用酒之一,略深且帶有透明感的金黃色酒液,濃郁的奶油、蜂蜜、杏桃、柑橘、一些熱帶水果罐頭、一些酵母香氣,光聞似乎就能感覺到那濃郁的口感,蜂蜜、奶油、柑橘、鳳梨、一些香料香氣在口鼻流竄著,酸度殘留在口中時間頗長,也拉長了口感和尾韻。後來還有變化出一些細細的木桶香氣,回溫後也很好喝,兼有重甜口感和高酸度的好酒。

Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey
位於Bommes村,是Sauternes的知名酒莊之一,也是SauternesBarsac分級的一級酒莊。1917年由Désiré Cordier買下酒莊,並成為Cordier家族集團的酒莊之一,近二十年來,釀酒方式進步,也讓他們釀出強勁厚實的好酒。酒莊主要有三塊、合計40公頃的葡萄園(其中4.5公頃由Château d'Arche購入,曾屬於Château Lafaurie),種植90% Sémillon5% Sauvignon Blanc5% Muscdelle,皆位在庇里牛斯山延伸而下的礫石帶,上覆沖積土,平均樹齡40歲,平均產量為每公頃1800公升。釀製方法也頗特別,他們選擇直接在橡木桶裡發酵後培養1820個月後裝瓶,30%新桶,並使用過濾和澄淨後裝瓶。酒莊另有生產二軍酒「La Chapelle」,和1980年開始釀製的不甜白酒「Le Brut」,每年總產量約65007000箱。

2006年的進步,和2005年相比,大概只能以「神速」形容吧……至少,以經驗值來說,有越來越多的經驗可以猜酒,慢慢有「雖不中亦不遠矣」的感覺,要學習的很多,但我會努力的~!


2007年1月5日 星期五

在台東的跨年之旅......(2006.12.30~2007.1.1)

吃完酒友K精心準備的豐盛「壽宴」,飲著好酒,心滿意足,著實舒服。就帶著這樣開心滿足的心情,整理行李、收好酒杯,和小少一起到台北車站,搭上65B次莒光號,到花蓮,再轉搭1051次自強號到台東,歡喜跨年去。「壽宴」文章已經上網,請參考「滿舍的3P慶生會」。

諸位是否好奇,為何要在花蓮休息?火車上有得是位子,本可好好休息至台東,但兩周前訂票時,12/30台北到台東的自強號已在短短五分鐘內售罄,我就是那位六點鐘起床上網買票買不到的云云眾生之一,趕緊決定由花蓮當跳板,到台東。自從台鐵把位子拆散到各車廂後,瞬間,往台東的位子就少了一半,什麼跟什麼……

另外,小記一下,這一天在花蓮也看到1051次自強號拆車廂的畫面,連結器並不是拉就會能拉開的,要解開後,火車還要往裡推一下,再往外拉,才能解開。這還真妙巧的設計……至於,為什麼要拆車廂?因為花蓮往台東只有六節車廂,但台北拖到花蓮有12節啊!

中午到了台東,經過池上時固定發生衝下火車買飯包,再上車大快朵頤一番的趣事,而且大家似乎都是識貨人,都會手拿飯包,在火車上大啖一番。火車進站時,買便當的乘客已在車門排隊,火車停妥,大伙下車,買便當,兩個,找錢兩袋,跑回火車,開始坐著享受好吃的池上飯包囉!這一切,都在火車靠站的一分鐘內完成,也只為了吃到這個60元的飯包。

全美行的池上飯包,僅售一味,配菜豐富,又能吃到池上米的好口感,不亦樂乎。還記得上次特地和她開車到池上,只為在店裡好好吃個飯包,當然,店裡也僅售一味,不時還看到月台上賣便當的員工跑回來,裝了二十便當,再回池上火車站叫賣的情況哩!現在競爭似乎較激烈,他們也會有人在台東車站月台叫賣便當,但池上到台東五十分鐘車程,飯包冷了,似乎也少了點池上在地味吧!

到了台東,稍事休息,便出發到新化。一路上車不算少,但有速度就好,只要有膽子,油門踏過半,kick down一下就有速度了,多好啊!下午到了新化,開始幫忙生火燒水,燒洗澡水和用灶煮飯。是的,用灶,她們家還是有瓦斯爐,但台北沒有灶,這裡有灶啊!她媽媽笑說,我每次到新化,都要「玩火」但不自焚,這種火在台北可是玩不到的。

我這次又增加一些經驗值啦,用灶燒紅燒魚,還用灶爆香薑、蒜、蔥、辣椒哩!

晚上吃著紅燒魚、粽子(排灣語chi-na-v)、炒米粉、青菜,擺得是滿滿一桌,還有羊奶頭燉雞湯呢!羊奶頭還真是奇妙的東西,做湯真的有淡淡羊乳味。休息一下,喝點小酒,我帶了薄酒萊下去,順便拿了一支「阿婆雞」和一支「小Sauternes」下去。懶得寫筆記,小Sauternes也忘了名字,只剩下自己記得的酒名如下:

Georges Duboeuf Fleurie Flower Label 2002

Château Saint-Didier Parnac Apogée 2004

12/31睡到八點,前一天五點起床搭火車實在太累,偏偏我在火車上又睡不久……上午和她家人到金崙,看著她爸朋友的新溫泉,以後會變成大眾池呢!再到金峰鄉公所挖的「金峰溫泉」,雖未正式開放,但不少人都會走後門進入,這也是一種奇景吧!中午到了知本,吃的是當地有名的「湘琪牛肉麵」,帶骨牛肉和牛大骨熬成的紅燒牛肉湯,搭配的是口感剛好的麵和紅燒牛肉,這是較重口味的川味牛肉麵,好吃,原味更佳。順道一提,這間麵店上午開賣後,一直賣到賣完為止,常常不到晚上就賣完,生意很好,聽說目前已是第二代經營了,仍然有聲有色。

下午在家睡個午覺,可惜我根本不能睡……跑進跑出都來不及,不過這是難得獻殷勤的機會呢!晚上很快就到了,吃的也不含糊,是台東知名的「源億羊肉爐」,天冷了,吃吃羊肉爐吧!位在富源的「源億羊肉爐」,位在海岸山脈最南端,可以看得到台東市夜景,我們到的時間剛好,也看到了台東機場的飛機起降呢!羊肉爐吃的是羊肉,這家的羊肉是新鮮羊肉,口感不似冷凍羊肉的柴,而且不腥不羶,是好吃的羊肉爐;沾汁是腐乳汁為底,頗一般,但調味恰到好處。另外我們也點了「涼拌過貓」和炒山蘇、山苦瓜等,皆好吃,尤其涼拌過貓的沙拉醬微搵山葵,大家都能接受這樣的山葵香氣;炒山苦瓜有加鹹鴨蛋調味,鴨蛋量也不少,份量足又好吃。也是吃得心滿意足。

晚上下了雨,原本計畫去寒舍泡茶的計畫也就泡湯了,只好去大潤發笑哈哈一下,買些她的日常用品,再在家裡看電視跨年。看著中視,看著兩百多公里遠的101大樓煙火,我也開了香檳慶祝:

Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin Brut Champagne Gold Label Vintage Reserve 1996

酒液呈略淺的金黃色,邊緣泛透明、有層次感,液面晶亮,氣泡細緻、均勻、量多、且持久。有著略濃郁的礦石、鳳梨、酵母、奶油糖、清涼水果、烤吐司香氣,略帶一些洋梨、燻烤、BBQ香氣,香氣略感複雜度,有一絲討喜風格。入口時感覺有酸度,酒體略重,氣泡口感細緻、均勻,有一些甜美而帶來的圓潤口感,但酸度仍感清脆,口中有著鳳梨、BBQ、礦石、酵母、烤吐司、一些焦糖、一些糖漬水果香氣,頗有結構的好酒。尾韻長度適中,酸度清脆的果味為主。

十二點一到,我們一齊舉杯,慶祝新年快樂,也慶祝有個好采頭囉!除了香檳,也要有紅酒相伴,我則是準備了這支長命酒,沒想到它還真長命,晚上我們三個人也只喝掉1/3瓶,大家都喝得好省:

Clos des Papes Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2000

酒液呈深寶石紅色,邊緣泛紅色、微微偏粉紅色,液面晶亮。有著頗濃郁的胡椒、青椒、黑莓果、乾燥香料草香氣,略感一些大地系、木材香氣,香氣可感複雜度。入口時感覺到有酸度,重度酒體,單寧量充足但似有些隱藏,可感覺到有澀度,口感有些甜美,但隱藏其後的是濃郁強勁的南隆個性:熱情的胡椒和莓果香氣,強勁的口感,還有隱藏得很好、得要努力醒才能找得到的單寧,口中有著濃郁的黑莓果醬、葡萄乾、胡椒、青椒、青草、橡木、燻烤、一些新鮮泥土香氣,做得極好。尾韻長度略長些。似乎不只這樣的變化?

1/1又是晚起的一天,快中午才出門,不過也吃不下太多東西了。天氣頗好,就決定開車沿著台9線開,先到初鹿牧場散步、曬太陽,很多小孩在玩騎馬,這倒是之前沒看到的,我們只得餵馬吃草囉!偌大的草原沒有看到乳牛,原來都去休息了,我們還跑到後面才看到,不過乳牛們的衛生習慣實在不太好,還把屁股對著我們拉屎……

初鹿牧場裡有很多乳牛的模型,當然還有賣鮮乳囉!我來台東都會喝初鹿鮮乳,也會買一些初鹿煉乳回家,夾吐司又香又好吃,吃過都不會想吃什麼鷹牌或雀巢的煉乳了。可惜在台北買不到初鹿的鮮乳,在超市也找不到,但仍然賣得很好。另外值得一提的是,牧場裡草味頗重,理應會有蒼蠅子亂飛,他們在販賣部裡噴灑香茅精的水,又好聞,又可以驅蚊趕蒼蠅,一舉兩得。

接著到了高台,經過高台那麼多次,知道鹿野有種茶,知道高台有飛行傘玩,但一直都沒去,這次就開車亂跑,去繞繞。高台也只是個較高的台地,不過因為有落差,再加上地形之故,很適合跳飛行傘,而且也有大大的草原可以練習。我們也在草原上滾著,曬著太陽,冬天的太陽就是暖和,又有大片草地可供滾躺,讓人想小憩片刻。上面還有陡坡處可以滑草,只是我們都太重了,滑不動……

再開車就到了關山,種植著油菜花,聽說當地農民會用這種方式,在休耕的稻田裡種油菜養地,儘管油菜經濟價已經降低不少,但在冬季開著一片花海,也是好看。我們還開車到池上,看了「全美行」飯包的大本營,再開車回關山放東西,回到台東整理行李,收了心,準備回台北。回台北是搭飛機,但我已經累壞了,居然在飛機上小睡了。這次搭飛機感覺座位變大了,應該是錯覺吧……

搭機前也是少不了吃點東西,我選擇吃七里香的超大水煎包,和海邊的蔥油餅加蛋,吃得津津有味,便宜的小吃也可以得到大大的滿足。七里香水煎包一直都很有名,比我的拳頭還大的水煎包,料多實在,可以吃到滿滿的高麗菜餡,下午四點開賣,生意很好;海邊的蔥油餅,在煎蛋時還加了九層塔,是這小吃最特別之處,加點小辣更好吃喔!

吃飽了,也回到了台北,但又能一直回味,真是餘韻深長的台東跨年之旅……


2007年1月4日 星期四

滿舍的3P慶生會......(2006.12.29)

酒友K為慶祝他的xx歲生日,特在「滿舍」辦了慶生會。這次除了酒友K之外,還有H大的老婆、酒友K的朋友生日,一共三位壽星,故稱「3P慶生會」,絕對沒有腥羶色的成分存在……

酒友K一共搬出八支好酒,再加上H大贊助的兩支好酒,一共十款,十個人,喝得盡興囉!酒單和筆記如下:

Moët & Chandon Brut Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon 1996
酒液呈淺金黃色,邊緣泛透明、有層次感,液面晶亮,氣泡細緻、均勻、量多且持久(超過
20分鐘)。有著頗濃郁的烤吐司、礦石、酵母、餅乾、BBQ、鳳梨、柑橘、一些燻烤、一些奶油香氣,香氣可感覺到複雜度,狀況頗好。入口時感覺到有酸度,酒體略重,氣泡在口中頗均勻、細緻,有著頗清脆的酸口感,濃郁的香氣在口中散發,有著鳳梨、柑橘、酵母、礦石、烤吐司、BBQ、一些餅乾香氣,非常漂亮、很有結構的酒,似乎比上次喝到的還好些。尾韻長度略長些。只能說,這真是一支無懈可擊的Dom,太美妙的酒了!

Bollinger Extra Brut Champagne R.D. 1995
酒液呈淺金黃色(較
Dom略深些),邊緣泛透明、有層次感,液面晶亮,氣泡細緻、均勻、量多、頗持久。有著濃郁的礦石、烤吐司、酵母、BBQ、鳳梨香氣,略帶一些特殊的鐵鏽味,香氣可感複雜度,有層次感。入口時感覺到有酸度,酒體略重,氣泡在口中頗均勻、量多,清脆的酸度感覺很棒,有著酵母、烤吐司、鳳梨、柑橘、BBQ、一些燻烤、一些野味香氣,很有結構的香氣,似乎仍然太早喝了。尾韻長度略長些。

Prager Trocken Grüner Veltliner Wachau Weissenkirchen Achleiten 2004
酒液呈淺金黃色,邊緣泛透明、有層次感,液面晶亮。有著頗柔細的柑橘、清新水果、一些蜂蜜、一些礦石香氣,香氣略感複雜度。入口時感覺到有酸度,酒體適中,有著清爽的酸,口中有著一些蜂蜜、一些獸皮、一些青草、一些清新水果香氣,似可重新喚醒味蕾。尾韻長度適中。

Domaine Michel Colin-Délégér Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru "En Remilly" 1996
酒液呈略淺的金黃色,邊緣泛黃,液面晶亮。有著略感濃郁的奶油、糖漬鳳梨香氣,略帶一些礦石、燻烤、煙燻培根香氣,頗漂亮,香氣略感複雜度。入口時感覺到略有酸度,酒體略重,頗均衡但有粗獷風格,口中有著奶油、柑橘、一些燻烤香氣,是最好喝的時候吧!尾韻長度適中。

Domaine Étienne Sauzet Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru "Les Combettes" 1996
酒液呈略淺的金黃色,邊緣泛透明、有層次感,液面晶亮。有著略濃郁的胡桃、杏仁、鳳梨、礦石香氣,略帶一些煙火熏和大地系香氣,一絲花香飄於鼻中,很優雅的酒,略感其複雜度。入口時感覺到有酸度,酒體略重些,酸度有些清脆感,口中有著奶油、煙燻、鳳梨、洋梨、一些花香調,優雅又均衡的好酒。尾韻長度略長些,帶有一絲杏桃味。
En Remilly頗佳,但這支酒相形而下更加美麗,是有內涵的好酒。

Château Gruaud-Larose 1961
酒液呈磚紅色,邊緣泛棕色,液面明亮。有著略濃郁的大地系、烏梅、中藥草、一些薄荷、一些松露、一些菌菇香氣,香氣略感複雜度。入口時感覺到有酸度,酒體適中,單寧量適中且已釋出,感覺到有澀度,口感頗均衡、協調,口中有著菌菇、泥土和烏梅香氣。尾韻長度適中。老酒至此可稱不敗,現在喝實在不錯。

Domaine Leroy Corton Renardes 1995
酒液呈深寶石紅色,邊緣泛紅色、略帶粉紅,液面晶亮。有著略濃郁的大地系、覆盆子、紅色漿果果醬香氣,略帶一些玫瑰花、薄荷、草地、餅乾、巧克力香氣,香氣可感複雜度。入口時感覺到有酸度,酒體頗重,單寧量充足且已釋出,感覺到有澀度,口中有著大地系、覆盆子、花香調,非常美妙,又有堅實感。尾韻長度適中。融合上等桶味和漿果氣息,又充分反映地塊特色,果然是
Leroy的好酒。另這支酒未喝出Bio-dynamics的特有香氣,不知是否是有陳年之故?

Robert Mondavi Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 1996
酒液呈深不透光的紫紅色,邊緣泛粉紅色、略偏紫色,液面晶亮。有著濃郁的黑醋栗、加州李、黑莓果醬、橡木、一些大地系香氣,香氣略感複雜度,濃膩的感覺。入口時感覺到有酸度,重度酒體,單寧量而感覺到有澀度,口感有一絲苦,單寧口感略粗,口中有著黑醋栗、黑李子、橡木、一些乾藥草、一些大地系香氣。尾韻長度適中。

Opus One 1995
酒液呈深紫紅色,邊緣泛紅色,液面晶亮。有著濃郁的黑醋栗、黑莓果果醬、橡木香氣,略帶一些巧克力、燻烤、藥草、青草地香氣,香氣略感複雜度。入口時感覺到有酸度,重度酒體,單寧量充足而感覺到有澀度,強勁均維持著均衡、堅實的口感,口中有著黑醋栗、黑李子、燻烤、橡木、一些巧克力香氣,有些討喜風格,接續其後為強勁堅實的口感和香氣,美妙。尾韻長度適中。

Château Rieussec 1986
酒液呈略深的金黃色,邊緣泛黃,液面晶亮。有著濃郁的蜂蜜、柑橘、鳳梨、罐頭水果、糖漬水果香氣,略帶一些礦石、杏桃、杏仁、堅果、礦石香氣,
botrytis香氣頗明顯,香氣略感複雜度。入口時感覺到有酸度,重度酒體,頗濃美濃郁的口感,有著絕妙的平衡感,口中有著蜂蜜、鳳梨、罐頭水果、糖漬水果、一些杏桃香氣,濃郁複雜的口感,難以形容。尾韻長度略長(約持續15秒以上)。很美妙的口感,難道都得放上二十年,才能感覺到Sauternes的豐富變化嗎?

由郭滿蕙小姐開的「滿舍」,並未正式對外營業,需要訂位,也只供應套餐,座位很少,有些服務也需要自理,似乎不像是餐廳,反而比較像是廚藝工作室。郭小姐本就在此教授製作傳統法式料理,這次餐點也是她和兩位助手合力完成的。詳細的介紹可以參考她們的網頁

這次的菜單也是一時之選。「巴黎沙拉(Salade Parisienne)」用的是汆燙去皮的牛蕃茄,填滿海鮮為主題的沙拉,鮮蝦裝飾也可食,調味頗佳;「烤薰鴨胸肉鑲香菇(Champignons farcis au marget de canade fume)」陪襯的生菜清脆,本體則是細碎鴨胸肉和入豬肉和洋菇作餡,鑲在倒置的香菇上,烤好灑上麵包塊上桌,頗具創意又簡單的料理;「南瓜濃湯(Soupe au poitiron)」僅是一般,奶油有些重;「布列塔尼焗烤扇貝(Saint-jacques gratinees)」則是用大顆的扇貝,再填入調味馬鈴薯泥去焗烤,未特別強調奶味,所以焗不夠多,調味有些鹹。這次套餐的熱前菜還真多,可能是因為天氣冷的關係吧!

終於到了主菜。「勃艮地紅酒燴牛肉(Estouffade de boeuf bourguignonne)」是大塊的牛肉,和洋菇、紅蘿蔔燉煮後上桌,襯上香料飯,飯的口感頗佳,牛肉也有燉煮入味,不過調味還是重了些;AA不能吃牛,又是個自然豬;中場還是上了生菜沙拉讓大家味蕾回神囉!甜點「烤蘋果佐香草冰淇淋(Pommes Golden au gor, glace vanille)」烤蘋果部分頗好吃,充分掌握到口感,冰淇淋反而沒有適當提味,甜了。

整體來說菜都頗有水準,算是中規中矩的菜色,也少了進口食材墊價錢,但也有相當的水準;少了餐酒搭配,菜和酒僅稱不失,但是自己搭配也發現香檳的確很好搭菜,以當天菜色而言,Dom即可輕鬆從搭完前菜和渴品哩!個人覺得調味有些重,尤其是鹹,還好酒還算多,還夠自己努力喝;另外,菜裡面還是帶有淡淡的「台灣味」,怎麼說呢?吃到了蒜片、九層塔等香料,香氣都頗強勁,猜想是台灣貨才有這樣濃郁的香氣,但也影響了均衡感,可能是調味可以再補強的部分吧!

吃喝得非常開心,心滿意足,酒友K還準備了白木屋的雙層蛋糕請大家吃。有巧克力和什麼口味來著的……吃太飽,有一層的沒吃到……對了,也要向3P的主角,也就是三位壽星們說「生日快樂」囉!

Moët & Chandon Brut Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon 1996
WA:98
I have had a lot of great vintages of Dom Perignon, but I do not remember any as impressive as the 1996. Even richer than the brilliant 1990, the 1996 is still tightly wound, but reveals tremendous aromatic intensity, offering hints of bread dough, Wheat Thins, tropical fruits, and roasted hazelnuts. Medium to full-bodied, with crisp acidity buttressing the wines wealth of fruit and intensity, it comes across as extraordinarly zesty, well-delineated, and incredibly long on the palate. Moet-Chandon deserves considerable accolades for this prodigious example of Dom Perignon. Anticipated maturity: now-2020+.
WS:94
This features floral, candied citrus, pencil shaving and hazelnut aromas and flavors. It's fresh and focused, with a firm structure offset by a mouthfilling richness and a lacy texture. Not a blockbuster, but seamless and seductive in its approach. Drink now through 2010. (BS)

Bollinger Extra Brut Champagne R.D. 1995
WS:95
A dry, oxidative style, with whole-grain bread, ginger, roasted hazelnut and yeast notes lending complexity. Its structure comes into relief due to the dryness, but overall this is balanced and well-integrated, with a very long finish and an expansive aftertaste. Ideal with seafood and rich sauces or game birds. Drink now through 2020. (BS)

Domaine Michel Colin-Délégér Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru "En Remilly" 1996
WA:92
The impressive Chassagne-Montrachet en Remilly possesses fabulous licorice and butter cookie aromas and an expansive, rich, medium-to-full-bodied, and hyper-ripe but wonderfully balanced core of baked peaches, poached pears, and honeysuckle. This elegant yet powerful beauty should be at its best between now and 2004. 1996 was a spectacular year for Colin's wines. The bright, bracing, focus-providing acidity that characterizes the vintage married magnificently well with his trademark plump, ripe, rich, and concentrated wine style.
WS:84
Stands out for its buttery, butterscotch, caramel aromas and flavors. Full-bodied, lacks a bit of finesse. Milky, vanilla notes follow through on the finish. Drink now through 2003. (PM)

Domaine E'tienne Sauzet Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru "Les Combettes" 1996
WA:94
Produced from 45 year old vines and aged in 40% new oak barrels, the Puligny-Montrachet Les Combettes is a stunning wine. While less expressive aromatically than the Champs-Canet, it exhibits tantalizing floral scents. On the palate, this offering explodes with concentrated, lively, complex, and gorgeously-defined honeysuckle, candied almonds, roasted hazelnuts, pears, anise, and white flowers. Medium-to-full-bodied and velvety-textured, this bright yet fat wine beautifully combines Boudot's rich winemaking style with this vintage's bright acidity. Anticipated maturity: 2002-2007. Wow! This wine had been bottled one week prior to my visit, having spent 14 months on its lees.
WS:90
Prototypical '96 with good mineral notes, lush texture and lots of acidity for a vibrant finish. Impressive concentration and thick mid-palate bring out a velvety smoothness. The oak is overdone and strangely perfume, giving an odd floral character disappeared somewhat after the wine was aired for 12 hours. Don't touch for a long time. Best after 2007. 775 cases made. (PM)

Château Gruaud-Larose 1961
WA:96
Tasted 7 Times With Consistent Notes. The 1961 is among the greatest mature wines of Gruaud-Larose I have drunk. This powerful, rich, densely concentrated wine remains young, fresh, and vigorous, with a full decade of life ahead. It continues to exhibit a dark garnet color with some amber, a wonderfully fragrant quality (plus, minerals, tar, cedar, soy sauce, and licorice), a viscous texture, sensation depth of fruit, and a fabulous, albeit alcoholic finish. This is claret at its most decadent. Anticipated maturity: now-2015.
WS:90
Has this chateau's characteristic earthy style, seeming almost pungent on first whiff, but it also packs plenty of ripe, sweet-seeming fruit flavor. In very solid condition, full-bodied but well balanced, firm with tannins. Drink through 2005. --1961 Bordeaux horizontal.

Domaine Leroy Corton Renardes 1995
WA:93
Lalou Bize-Leroy told me she felt she had been particularly successful with her Corton Renardes (125 cases). I thought that it was the single greatest Corton I have ever tasted. Displaying a dark, almost black color and aromas of gamey wild berries, this stupendous wine explodes on the palate with powerful flavors of awesomely ripe cherries, sweet black fruits and animal notes all embedded in a thick, super-structured, velvety-texture. Intense and incredibly long, this wine should be cellared for 10 years before drinking it over the following decade. This note is the result of tastings I did in Burgundy between January 7 and January 29. The wine was tasted from cask, not bottle. Pinot Noir, a fragile varietal, reacts poorly to fining, filtration, and careless bottling techniques, I recommend caution when considering buying a red burgundy based on cask samples. I called it as I tasted it, and hope the bottled wine reflects the quality of the samples I was provided. I have included the cases production for the wine in order for readers to appreciate the rarity of Leroy's wines.
WS:90
A ripe, lovely, full-bodied '95, offering a soothing velvety texture, and good balance between the sweet tannins and lovely currant, blackberry, coffee and black cherry flavors. The finish is succulent and seductive. Try after 2000.

Robert Mondavi Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 1996
WA:92
The 1996 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve may be no better than the Oakville, but it is made in a slightly different style. The color is opaque purple, and the wine reveals more vanillin, a touch of mint, and plenty of black currant fruit in its moderately intense aromatics. Some of the vintage's dry tannin (from this year's stressed vineyard conditions) is present in the wine's finish. A more stylish, restrained, less exuberant example than the 1996 Oakville, it is an outstanding offering that should be consumed between 2002-2025.
WS:95(Highly Recommended)
Rich and complex yet restrained in style, with pretty coffee, currant, black cherry, spice and anise flavors that fan out nicely, this California Cabernet turns particularly elegant and polished on the long finish. Drink now through 2007. 15,000 cases made. (JL)

Opus One 1995
WS:95
A shade more elegant and refined than the '94, yet sharing the delicious range of flavors, with bright black cherry, plum and floral notes. Turns smooth and polished.--Opus One vertical. Best from 2003 through 2014. 30,000 cases made. (JL)

Château Rieussec 1986
WA:91
The 1986 is a complex and elegant wine, with plenty of smoky almonds, peaches, and honeyed apricot fruit in the nose and flavors. In the mouth, the wine has a certain elegance, and perhaps not quite the punch one normally expects from Rieussec. Nevertheless, it is a compelling Sauternes that should age magnificently. Anticipated maturity: 1994-2010. Last tasted, 1/93.
WS:89
Quite exotic and intense toasted coconut, honey and vanilla flavors, but the fruit seems buried by new oak character and it tastes a bit hot on the finish. Might improve with age.