2006年6月22日 星期四



首先是趙大哥的酒,一支做得很不錯的1982 Bordeaux,酒莊倒是不常見。光看到年份,眼睛就為之一亮,產區也是我喜歡的Saint-Julien啊:
Château Gloria 1982


Château Gloria遲至2003年才入選為Cru Bourgeois的一員,但在此之前已被Robert Parker評為「very good」的酒莊之一,以當時的技術而言,是做得很不錯的。1982年是Bordeaux的大好年,很多好酒到現在都未達到顛峰,以這次喝到的感覺,應該算是完全熟了,可能完全成熟的Bordeaux就是這樣吧!

Domaine Michel Colin-Deléger Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru 'En Remilly' 1999


En Remilly」這個一級葡萄園位在Chassagne-MontrachetPuligny-Montrachet的交界,嘗過同款酒的兩個年份,常兼有粗獷的口感和細緻的香氣,是我喜歡的風格之一。Burghound的適飲期寫的沒錯,實在是開的太早了,最少要再放兩三年後,才會逐漸適飲、達到均衡吧!酸度還高,還沒熟,而我則開始考慮要不要再買一支來放……

Domaine Vincent et Philippe Lechéneaut Nuits-St.-Georges 'Les Damodes' 1995


Les Damodes」葡萄園鄰近Vosne-Romanée村,1/3是村莊級,2/3是一級葡萄園,果味豐沛、極具魅力,神似Vosne-Romanée村的強勁風格。Lechéneaut酒莊是當地水準極高的酒莊之一,回想上一次在悅上海喝到的口感,年輕的酒喝起來很新派,居然在數年後會有這樣的變化,更相信他們的高水準了。

Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey 2003 (375mL)



Château Gloria 1982
The 1982 Gloria is proving to be one of the most pleasant surprises of the vintage.  Recent bottles have been beautifully rich, with classic blackcurrant fruit intertwined with scents of spice, herbs, and cedar. Full-bodied, with a lovely concentrated feel, this is the richest Gloria since the tannic 1975 and glorious 1970 (now in decline).  The 1982 could have been bought for a song when released (I purchased it for $7.29 a bottle). When it was young, it was just a big ball of juicy fruit, but it has developed well. While seemingly fully mature, this wine will easily last for another 7-10 years .  Tasted 8 times since bottling with consistent notes.
Big, warm and ripe. Medium ruby color. Fresh and fruity, with perfume, berry and raspberry aromas. Medium-bodied, with berry, cherry and chocolate flavors, medium tannins and a medium finish.--1982 Bordeaux horizontal. Drink now. (JS)

Domaine Michel Colin-Deléger Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru 'En Remilly' 1999
Floral, lime and nut oil notes on the nose. Bright but tight in the mouth, with intense, firm flavors of lime and minerals. High-pitched but not hard. Finishes impressively long, with excellent grip. This should age gracefully.
While most examples of En Remilly offer good detail and minerality, few offer the power and intensity of this 99. Quite tight and closed with almost painfully intense flavors and a powerful acid backbone; the entire package is like drinking liquid rocks. This is so reserved today that it’s frankly difficult to evaluate and my rating could well prove to be conservative. Don’t touch this for at least 5 years. 91/2007+

Domaine Vincent et Philippe Lechéneaut Nuits-St.-Georges 'Les Damodes' 1995
From a 40 year old parcel bordering Vosne-Romanee, the dark-ruby-colored Nuits-St.-Georges Les Damodes reveals a fabulously perfumed, spicy sweet nose and an extremely elegant, structured, delineated, thick-textured, tangy-fruit-packed personality. A real winner! Drink between 2002-2008. This note is the result of tastings I did in Burgundy between January 7 and January 29. The wine was tasted from cask, not bottle. Pinot Noir, a fragile varietal, reacts poorly to fining, filtration, and careless bottling techniques, I recommend caution when considering buying a red burgundy based on cask samples. I called it as I tasted it, and hope the bottled wine reflects the quality of the samples I was provided. Each of Domaine Lecheneaut's offerings is a pleasure to recommend. These wines are lush and sweet but capable of aging well, as the 1990s I have in my cellar continue to prove.
Beautiful aromas of blackberries and roses are followed by a firmly structured, crisp-tasting wine. Plenty of dry tannins in evidence, so wait until 2000. 300 cases made. (PM)

Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey 2003
Very, very intense aromas of dried apricot and lemon. Honey, syrup and Golden Delicious. Full-bodied, viscous and very sweet. Pour it on pancakes. Love it. And drink it. Who can wait? Best after 2010. 6250 cases made. (JS)
Full yellow-gold. Sweet aromas of apricot and nuts. Suave, fleshy and rich, with thick, honeyed-flavors given shape by just enough acidity. Shows repeating nutty oak in the middle palate and on the finish. A very rich, thick style, with very good but not outstanding complexity.