2006年6月13日 星期二

KJ慶生會@Tutto Bello......(2006.06.10)

酒界專賣雞腿堡的K大大(不是啃得雞,更不是啃你雞),和酒界專賣果凍的前輩J大哥,都在最近生日,於是大伙準備許久,更由AA大大出馬,訂了知名義大利餐廳Tutto Bello,請Samson幫忙作最適當的餐酒搭配。酒單已夠懾人,能搭配的菜當然也要是一時之選,而且多數是菜單上沒有的菜色,足見Samson的用心。我?據說沒有酒友看過我打領帶……我打領帶有這麼好看嘛?

先把酒單打出來,會有很多大家很「哈」的酒吧:
Bollinger Brut Champagne Vieilles Vignes François 1992
Louis Roederer Brut Rosé Champagne Cristal 1996
Gaja Barbaresco Sori Tildin 1982 (MG)
Château Haut-Brion 1930
Château Petrus 1973
Château Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 1980
Domaine Gros Frère et Soeur Richebourg 1996
Domaine des Baumard Quartz de Chaume 1990

先是香檳暖場時間,先是送上Bollinger Brut Champagne Vieilles Vignes François 1992,金黃色酒液中透出細緻綿密的氣泡,烤吐司、酵母、燻烤、焦糖等細緻香氣竄出,入口仍能感受到氣泡的跳動,100% Pinot Noir帶出酒廠一貫的強勁風格,細緻燻烤、BBQ香氣變化著,果然是好香檳。

接下來是Louis Roederer Brut Rosé Champagne Cristal 1996,差不多時間也送上開胃的奶油麵包。Cristal Rosé算是粉紅香檳的逸品之一,產量少又珍貴(每年出廠價都漲,也算是特色之一吧),漂亮的鮭魚紅色,有著細緻、均勻、持久的mousse,透出烤吐司、酵母、燻烤、鳳梨、BBQ、一絲莓果香氣,口感和Bollinger相比較細瘦,但有著漂亮的優雅氣質,開得太早,還能再放。喝著這支逸品,每口粉紅香檳都有著特殊的感受,也聽聞了K大大有「ㄤ」了,當然要恭祝她們百年好合囉!

差不多該上前菜了。前菜是「檸檬風味龍蝦菲力搭配乾煎朝鮮薊及濃縮海鮮湯(Butter Poached Lobster with Thyme, Potato Pizza, Baby Artichoke Confit, Seafood Espresso, Limoncello Sauce)」,先是油醋醬混合新鮮生菜葉,再來是乾煎朝鮮薊,朝鮮薊只取嫩心,乾煎直接入盤,下刀直落盤心,嫩到無話可說,頭一次吃到如此鮮嫩的朝鮮薊;我不能吃龍蝦,卻換到鵝肝,嫩如布丁般的鵝肝是入口即化,完全無筋已是理所當然,直接讓我回想到第一次吃小牛胸腺的口感,簡直無話可說。不能吃蝦的我,把海鮮湯讓給朋友,淺淺聞一下,猜想全蝦的精華盡在此湯吧!這是一道極好的前菜,只是鵝肝下襯的麵包可改用玉米餅,手感和口感會更好,那大概就是完美吧!

吃完最後一口前菜,再繼續聊天、休息,侍者則斟上了義大利酒Gaja Barbaresco Sori Tildin 1982。許多酒友對第一個字不陌生,對「義大利雙B」之一的Barbaresco也不陌生,而Sori Tildin則是Angelo Gaja最好的Barbaresco。接近深紫紅色的酒液,很難想像Nebiollo居然能釀出這麼深的顏色,陳年超過20年而顏色未褪,像是1990年左右的上等Barbaresco;飄出的紫羅蘭、紅莓果、大地、松露香氣,細緻且綿長,一絲燻烤香氣飄逸,不若常喝到Barolo的強勁,這支酒果以細緻感取勝;入口單寧如絲,達到漂亮完美的均衡,入喉後有著悠長尾韻,果然是少有的好酒。

這支Barbaresco用來搭配熱前菜「松露醬燴春夏鮮菇(Spring and Summer Mushrooms with Truffled Cream)」,用上濃郁松露碎片、松露油、奶油作成醬汁,內襯四種春夏季出產的菇類,我只吃得出草菇、杏鮑菇,其它可能要靠主廚幫忙了。松露奶油醬汁和鮮菇混合於口,是極完美的組合,是道簡單的前菜,但用料和感受一點也不簡單。Barbaresco那漂亮的花香和松露香氣,正搭這道熱前菜,是無懈可擊的搭配。

然後,連上三支老BordeauxSamson此時告知Haut-Brion 1930有問題,但其它兩支酒則很正常,為增加自身的經驗值,還是要嚐嚐這三支老酒。Château Haut-Brion 1930顏色異常地深,但口感柔弱,以松露、菌菇、腐葉、一些巧克力香氣為主,欠變化,雖然沒有corked,但實在不佳,猜想Samson所說的「問題」,是不夠精采吧!

Château Petrus 1973透出壯年的紅寶石光澤,邊緣略偏磚紅,一開始香氣頗沉悶,只有少少的李子乾、葡萄乾、土地(泥土)香氣,聞不到貴貴的「錢」味,略醒一下後,才發揮了Petrus高貴的氣質(就是聞到了「錢」味),飄著李子、黑莓果、泥土、松露、樹葉和杉木香氣,也是有著絲絨般的單寧,尾韻細長,做得很不錯。Château Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 1980則更年輕的紅寶石光澤,帶著粉紅色的邊緣,看起來頗年輕,略感強勁的杉木、黑醋栗、水果乾、泥土、松露香氣,有著強勁的口感,單寧也是細緻,香氣持續許久,表現很不錯。

前主菜「羊膝燉飯佐焦糖洋蔥(Lamb Shank Risotto, Caramelized Onion and Parmigiano)」上桌,使用Parmigiano Cheese做的燉飯,燉飯米心微生,有著該有的口感,是控制得很好的燉飯;上覆炒過的洋蔥和燉羊膝,口味有些重,搭酒就剛好了,燉到嫩爛的羊膝沒有腥羶味,炒過的洋蔥帶著似有若無的焦糖香甜,是很美妙的搭配。這道前主菜的水準很高,燉飯的水準和前一天吃到的相比,實在天差地遠。原本是用來搭配Petrus的前主菜,也很適合搭配Pichon-Lalande呢!

氣氛愈益熱絡,「蜂蜜」聲也不絕於耳。酒酣耳熱之際,侍者為我們斟上Domaine Gros Frère et Soeur Richebourg 1996,傳說中「有錢人的漢堡」,這種酒若放在肚子太小的杯裡,真的可惜了,所以我準備了Riedel Sommelier Burgundy Grand Cru的大肚杯「對付」它。「神之」漫畫的第一集裡,女主角喝到那一口DRC Richebourg、身在百花園裡的感覺,這支酒就差不多是這個樣子。頗深的寶石紅酒液裡,透出的是陣陣的玫瑰花、覆盆子、紅莓果香氣,還有著一些風乾水果、新鮮泥土、烤肉、奶油、香料香氣,變化豐富,而Riedel的酒杯正凸顯了這支酒的玫瑰花香,猶如身在百花齊放的玫瑰花園裡,生意盎然。類似的香氣,也在Givenchy Irresistible的香水裡出現,類似大馬士革玫瑰的味道,香,就是那種優雅的花香佔滿整個杯子,佔滿了當下所有的感受。

好酒要搭菜,精典的頂級酒要搭主菜,主菜「油封鴨腿搭配芥茉醬燉蒜苗(Crispy Duck Confit with Stewed Young Leek and Mustard Cream)」上場囉!鴨腿本身肉多油腴,油封後做成功夫鴨腿(Duck Confit)應是鮮嫩多汁,不過這回鴨腿有些熟了,稱不上鮮嫩多汁,後來吃更顯乾瘦些;有芥茉子的芥茉醬一直是我愛吃的,加入奶油做成的醬汁更是吃到一滴不剩。若能控制好鴨腿的熟度,我想這會是極好吃的主菜。

我還有留了一些PetrusPichon-Lalande,本想飲盡,被一物所擋。這是沒有在菜單裡出現的「松露薯條」,極盡奢侈地用上切碎的松露和松露油,放在剛炸好、油瀝好的薯條上,每口咬下薯條,搭上松露香,又是另一種享受了。用來搭配老酒,松露和菌菇香氣充鼻不散,正好。這時大家的話都少了,如Samson所說,一吃無法罷手,非要吃完不可。

慢慢啜飲著Richebourg,感受它的變化,香氣緩慢地變成熟了,喝到最後一口,草梗味接上,花園變小了,像是一朵朵保存良好的乾燥玫瑰花,留作最後的紀念。享用主菜後,等著上甜點之際,侍者幫我們倒好甜酒,是Loire Valley知名酒莊的好酒,Domaine des Baumard Quartz de Chaume 1990。漂亮的金黃色酒液裡,帶有漂亮的蜂蜜、花香、礦石、水蜜桃和杏桃香氣,酸度減少了甜口感,更拉長了餘韻,拉長了感受它的時間。這是一支很棒的甜酒,我們也是喝到最好的時候,時間慢慢經過,我們則等待著甜點上桌。

甜點則是「杏仁湯鮮奶布丁(Panna Cotta with amaretto Soup)」,口感較奶酪更鮮嫩的香草鮮奶布丁,用的當然不是香草精,而是香草夾刮下來的香草子,味道更豐富,和鮮奶布丁搭檔是渾然天成;猜想是用杏仁粒搗碎而非使用杏仁粉做成的杏仁湯,多了一絲芝麻香氣,頗能玩味,且更增益鮮奶布丁的香氣;上覆薄荷葉除了裝飾外,也有加分效果。這是非常成功的一道甜點,很喜歡,喜歡到我把湯汁吃到一滴不剩,實在好吃。

之後,我點了熱咖啡,好好享受快樂的時光,不時回憶著極完美的佳餚和美酒,整套菜色都是極漂亮的演出,而餐酒搭配也是極好。我最喜歡的當然是前菜和甜點,而主菜還有加強空間,但仍是高水準的菜色。以前就知道Tutto Bello菜的水準極高,但這次,無疑是我吃過最好吃的一次,也是印象深刻的一次。主廚A-Bu最後出來和大家致意,耳聞其鵝肝為一絕,果不其然,前菜換得的鵝肝,是我印象最深刻的菜色。

慢慢地晚了,大家也依依不捨地準備離去。這是我參加過最好的餐酒會,Tutto Bello的菜也讓我印象深刻,對壽星來說,大概也是如此吧!看得出來,K大大和J大哥都非常開心,也祝他們生日快樂囉!

Gaja Barbaresco Sori Tildin 1982 (MG)
WS:94

Château Petrus 1973
WA:87
The wine of the vintage, this is the best Petrus for immediate consumption from those wines produced in the seventies. Given the prolific yield in 1973 and diluted quality of many wines, the Petrus is sensationally concentrated, rich, supple, fat, and so, so flavorful. Friends tell me that it is still a delicious wine. Anticipated maturity: Now. Last tasted, 12/84.
WS:73
Not unpleasant for a wine from such a weak vintage, with simple earthy, minty aromas and flavors. A rather green, unripe flavor detracts, however.--Petrus vertical. (JS)

Château Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 1980
WA:84
A lovely, medium-weight wine that has been very well vinified, the 1980 Pichon Lalande is delightful for current drinking. The bouquet offers spicy, cedary scents intermingled with copious ripe aromas of black currants. This is a soft, velvety, very nicely concentrated wine from a vintage considered poor to mediocre. Anticipated maturity: Now. Last tasted, 12/88.
WS:80
Still holding on, but slightly one-dimensional. Medium-bodied, with firm, slightly dry tannins and a plummy aftertaste. Drink in a hurry.--Pichon-Lalande vertical. (JS)

Domaine Gros Frère et Soeur Richebourg 1996
WS:95
Exciting, invading the senses with the most seductive red- and blackberry and spiced-up toasted oak imaginable, this full-bodied, rich wine melts like cream, with the long draw of a fine cigar. Burgundy's Cohiba. Best from 2005 through 2015. 54 cases imported. (PM)
BH:93
Pronounced aromas of earth, underbrush and wet leaves merge seamlessly into subtly complex, beautiful flavors of unusual finesse. This is not especially dense but it offers superb definition and outstanding finishing complexity. Perhaps the finest Richebourg the Domaine has produced since the vines were replanted in 1985 and 1989. 93/2010-20

Domaine des Baumard Quartz de Chaume 1990
WA:96
This wine was among those served at a tasting I attended at the Domaine des Baumards in June, 1997 which covered all the wines Jean Baumard has crafted over his career as well as some older ones (back to 1906!). This event is one of the most memorable of my life. I was amazed by the age-worthiness and extremely high quality of Baumard's wines, both in the sweet and dry offerings. But more poignantly, I was stunned that Jean Baumard would invite people from around the world to come taste, criticize, enjoy and judge every wine he had ever crafted. To have his life's work dissected in his presence, vintage by vintage, is a testimony to Baumard's courage, honesty and pride. How many of us would want to have all our work judged in such a manner? Baumard, ever modest, was his own biggest critic. Space constraints prevent me from including notes on the wines so I have only listed the best ones.
WS:89
Sweet and spicy, with honeyed, buttery orange and pear aromas and flavors, hinting at caramel on the finish. A pleasant wine to drink now.