2006年6月29日 星期四

Domaine Ramonet 2001年水平品飲品酒會......(2006.06.24)

這場由大亞天母店舉辦的品酒會,主題是Domaine Ramonet這個極知名的酒莊,選擇2001年作水平線品飲(?)……至於這水平線OOXX,當然是前陣子看到某飯店餐酒會文宣的笑話了,可能我們在喝的時候統統都要趴在地板上,才能喝到「水平線」品飲……那,「垂直線」的要怎麼喝?

Domaine Ramonet位在Chassagne-Montrachet,共擁有約18公頃的葡萄園,包含特級葡萄園MontrachetBâtard-MontrachetChevalier-MontrachetBienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet,除了細心栽培和產量控制嚴格之外,堅持不用100%全新橡木桶也是酒莊的特色,但特別的是,Ramonet白酒的特色,就是融合上等水果和木桶燻香,讓人懷疑是否使用100%新桶。本屬地雖位在Chassagne-Montrachet,但其白酒常有著高雅的風格,這種風格是許多酒廠學習、效法的對象,許多新世界的Chardonnay白酒皆以此為榜樣,當然,還是學不像。

有品酒專家指名在BourgogneChardonnay白酒最精采的三大酒莊為Jean-François Coche-DuryComte LafonRamonet,前兩者的酒奇貨可居,價格也是非常……嗯,高,但這三間酒莊的共同特性,就是融合Chardonnay的上等果味和木桶燻香,表現出Chardonnay、或是Bourgogne白酒高雅的一面。

講師Kiki先帶著大家喝村莊級和一級園白酒,皆位在Chassagne-Montrachet,應該較能喝出不同一級園的Terroir個性吧!酒名和筆記如下:


  1. Domaine Ramonet Chassagne-Montrachet 2001
    酒液呈淺金黃色,邊緣泛著透明,有層次感,液面晶亮。有著略感濃郁的玉米、礦石、鳳梨、一些青草香氣,略感複雜度,後來還有變化出一些煙燻香氣。入口時感覺到有酸度,酒體略重,口中有著柑橘、玉米、鳳梨香氣,果味和桶味融合得很棒,口感較圓潤。尾韻長度適中。現在的表現正好,頗喜歡。

  2. Domaine Ramonet Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru "Les Caillerets" 2001
    酒液呈淺金黃色,邊緣泛著透明,有層次感,液面晶亮。有著略感濃郁的玉米礦石、鳳梨、一些杏桃、一些青草香氣,略感複雜度,有較青澀的感覺,但桶味和果味仍融合著。入口時感覺到有酸度,酒體略重,口中有著鳳梨、柑橘、礦石、一些玉米香氣,口感有感覺較粗獷,酸度較高、頗清脆,頗奇妙。尾韻長度略長。有粗獷的風格,但又能感覺到圓潤的融合感,很美妙。

  3. Domaine Ramonet Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru "Boudriotte" 2001
    酒液呈淺金黃色,邊緣泛著透明,有層次感,液面晶亮。有著略感濃郁的礦石、鳳梨、杏桃、甘草、一些玉米、一些鐵塊(?)、一些氧化系香氣,略感複雜度,那奇妙的鐵塊香氣過一陣子後就消失了。入口時感覺到有酸度,酒體頗重,口中有著鳳梨、玉米、柑橘、礦石香氣,口感較圓潤,回溫後能感覺到清脆的酸度,但不太均衡。尾韻長度適中。這支酒表現出乎意料地熟,有被催熟的感覺。

  4. Domaine Ramonet Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru "Morgeot" 2001 (Blanc)
    剛喝時有些冰。酒液呈淺金黃色,邊緣泛著透明,有層次感,液面晶亮。有著略感濃郁的石、鳳梨、柑橘、甘草、一些玉米香氣,略感複雜度,有著融合得美妙的果味和桶味。入口時感覺到有酸度,酒體略重,口中有著礦石、鳳梨、柑橘皮、一些玉米香氣,口感較粗獷、直接,感覺較沒個性。尾韻長度適中。感覺這是所有一級園裡最中規中矩的,也分展現Chassagne-Montrachet的粗獷個性;另外,這個一級園也有果味重、口感較細瘦的紅酒。

  5. Domaine Ramonet Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru "Les Ruchottes" 2001
    剛喝時有些冰。酒液呈淺金黃色,邊緣泛著透明,有層次感,液面晶亮。有著略感濃郁的礦石、鳳梨、玉米、杏桃、柑橘香氣,較有內容,略感複雜度,回溫後柑橘、鳳梨等果味較明顯。入口時感覺到頗有酸度,酸度感覺頗清脆,酒體略重,口中有著礦石、鳳梨、杏桃、柑橘、一些萊姆皮香氣,有結構感,做得很不錯。尾韻長度適中。感覺這支酒的桶味和果味搭配的最好,頗喜歡。

  6. Domaine Ramonet Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru "Les Vergers" 2001
    剛喝時有些冰。酒液呈淺金黃色,邊緣泛著透明,有層次感,液面晶亮。有著略感濃郁的礦石、鳳梨、杏桃、柑橘、一些玉米香氣,略感複雜度,一開始有些悶,後來回溫後感覺到較明顯的柑橘香氣。入口時感覺到有酸度,酒體略重,口中有著鳳梨、礦石、萊姆、柑橘、杏桃香氣,較25號酒瘦些,溫度較冷時,香氣較偏重果味,回溫後則較感圓潤,很美妙,有結構感。尾韻長度略長些。Les Vergers一級園位在Chassagne-Montrachet偏北處,和其它一級園相比,略較細瘦。頗喜歡。

綜觀來看,Domaine Ramonet那融合水果和桶味的表現,實在讓自己增長見識,原來Chassagne-Montrachet的酒也可以做成這樣,不枉其名。以前常喝Colin-DélégerChassagne-Montrachet白酒,風格相較顯得細瘦嶙峋,仍是Ramonet技高一籌。這回合的白酒皆有著Chassagne-Montrachet的粗獷特性,但葡萄園位置還是決定了細部風格的變化,如Les Vergers較細瘦、Rouchottes較圓潤等,這可能就是Terroir特性吧!還有,村莊級白酒其實就做得很不錯了,目前正適飲,實在不錯。

最後我們有投票,1號、5號、6號酒都有結構,香氣和口感都一時之選,都是自己喜歡的酒,但1號目前最適飲、5號和6號感覺較具潛力,各有特色。至於3號酒,總覺得那氧化味怪怪的,卻是歐洲學校老師Stewart的最愛哩!

再來就是王牌了,不可等閒視之的特級葡萄園Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet。由店員先把酒斟好,再送上來,放在最後一輪喝:

Domaine Ramonet Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet 2001
酒液呈淺金黃色,邊緣泛著透明,有層次感,液面晶亮。有著頗濃郁的玉米、鳳梨、礦石、杏桃、柑橘皮、一些焦糖香氣,變化豐富,可感覺到複雜度,桶味強、果味重,但融合地很棒、很均衡。入口時感覺到有酸度,酒體略重,口中香氣以果味為主,有著柑橘、鳳梨、礦石、萊姆香氣,有些酒精感,有細緻感,個性有些討喜。尾韻長度略長。現在喝實在太早了,日後應有相當的變化,不過總感覺這支酒的變化有些空洞,不似當初想得複雜、有內容。

為了這支特級葡萄園的白酒,我還自備Riedel Sommelier Montrachet杯「侍候」它,香氣感覺更細緻多變,隱隱有著一絲蜂蜜香氣,似乎有較好的融合感,不過隱隱還是感覺到香氣的空洞,這算是小小的失望吧!不同的杯子會有著不同的表現,品酒也有一部份是要滿足自己的感官,所以,寫完心得後換個好杯子繼續喝,也是美事。

品酒會時碎大大就偷偷拿了一支酒去decant,當作是會後會用酒,看來以後自己手腳要快一點……會後會就在BBM之後開始。幾個朋友人手一杯,開始聊時下流行的世足話題吧!b律師前一天中暑,不勝酒力;聖E大酒量本就差,品酒會的酒沒喝完就去會周公了;不少酒友品酒會的酒也都有剩。結果,幾個酒友一起喝會後會,居然開了三支酒還喝不完……

品酒會喝了一堆白酒,會後會就改喝紅酒囉!會後會的酒由碎大大和d大大提供,非常感謝「政大校友會」強力贊助,小的就當記錄員囉!酒名和筆記如下:

Domaine Gros Frère et Soeur Grands Echézeaux 1996(碎大大提供)
碎大大先行
decant大半瓶,只留一些酒在瓶中。酒液呈深寶石紅色,邊緣泛紅色,液面晶亮。有著頗濃郁的覆盆子、藥草、櫻桃、一些果醬、一些樹幹、一些乾燥花香氣,變化豐富,略感複雜度。入口時感覺到有酸度,酒體頗重,單寧量適中且已釋出,感覺到有澀度,口中有著很特別的桂圓乾、覆盆子果醬香氣,口感有一些帶甜,很奇妙。尾韻長度略長些。這是一支做得很棒的酒,依碎大所述,前日喝到同酒莊Richebourg 1996時,就覺得這支酒可以開了,似乎現在是表現最好之時,而且沒有decant更能感覺到變化哩!

Cellers Ripoll Sans Priorat "Clasa Batllet-Grattalops" 2001(碎大大提供)
酒液呈深紫紅色,邊緣泛紅色,略偏粉紅,液面晶亮。有著濃郁的橡木、黑莓果醬、花香、一些薄荷、一些塑膠(化學)香氣,略感複雜度,有酒精感,是濃甜的討喜香氣。入口時感覺到有酸度,重度酒體,單寧量充足且感覺抓口,感覺到有澀度,口中充滿著果醬香氣,口感強勁扎實,個性直接。尾韻長度適中。

Montebaco Ribera del Duero "Montebaco" 2001d大大提供)
酒液呈深紫紅色,邊緣泛粉紅色,液面晶亮。有著略濃郁的黑莓果醬和薄荷香氣,略感複雜度,較上支酒優雅些。入口時感覺到有酸度,重度酒體,單寧量充足且抓口,感覺到有澀度,但單寧的口感較粗,有酒精感,口中也是充滿濃郁果醬香氣,很甜美、討喜的風格。尾韻長度適中。

碎大大和b律師也有文章可供參考:

碎:「Domaine Ramonet白酒品酒會」;b律師:「2001 Domaine Ramonet.」。

Domaine Ramonet Chassagne-Montrachet 2001
WA:86
Herbal liqueur and spiced minerals are found intermingled with lemons in the aromatic profile and flavors of the 2001 Chassagne-Montrachet. This light to medium-bodied wine is fresh and lively. Projected maturity: now-2006.
WS:89
Elegant and sweet at the same time, with plenty of tropical, peach and grassy-honey, ginger sauce flavors. Lovely and medium-bodied, with the vibrant stamina to improve with short-term cellaring. Impressively sweet-tasting for an '01 white Burg. Drink now through 2007. 175 cases imported. (PM)
BH:86
(bottled just before the harvest). Very spicy with extremely fine aromas of rosemary and a touch of earth lead to exceptionally well-balanced if not particularly concentrated flavors of good length and intensity. Solid quality here but not better. 86/2005-9

Domaine Ramonet Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru "Les Caillerets" 2001
WA:87
The laser-like 2001 Chassagne-Montrachet Caillerets will particularly appeal to those readers who shy away from sensual, hedonistic wines. It offers loads of juicy lemons, minerals, and chalk flavors in a light to medium-bodied, focused format. Its personality is long, not clipped, and it reveals good depth of fruit. It may well improve with a year or two of cellaring. Drink it between 2004 and 2010.
BH:91
Elegant and very pure citrus and fresh flower aromas introduce superbly intense, middle weight flavors of driving minerality and outstanding focus. The finish is wonderfully long and this is very serious in style, with an edgy, firm, bone dry character to it. Extremely impressive and this will require time. 91/2008-13

Domaine Ramonet Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru "Boudriotte" 2001
WA:89
Light to medium-bodied and satin-textured, the 2001 Chassagne-Montrachet Boudriotte reveals delicate mineral aromas. Gravel, stones, and hints of pears can be found in its broad, silky personality as well as in its impressive finish. Projected maturity: now-2009.
WS:90
Rich and ripe, with figs, pineapple and other sweet fruit. Full-bodied, zesty and vibrant, offering a blend of distinctive wet earth, mineral and wet stone notes. Silky, almost opulent on the toasted oak-scented finish. Best from 2005 through 2010. 200 cases imported. (PM)
BH:89
The wood is more subtle here with ripe, rich, pungent aromas of earth and exotic fruit notes that lead to even bigger, more robust flavors underpinned by edgy but ripe acidity and a firm, very dry finish. This is almost rough and tumble in style and while it’s no paragon of finesse, it delivers plenty of punch plus a pronounced finishing minerality that is most attractive. 89/2008-13

Domaine Ramonet Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru "Morgeot" 2001 (Blanc)
WA:89
Aromatically demure, the 2001 Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeot offers flavors reminiscent of earth, almonds, and stones. This fleshy wine has excellent depth, balance, and focus. It will be at its best if consumed over the next 5 years.
BH:88
Expressive, sweet citrus aromas and somewhat more pronounced wood spice notes lead to clean, direct, full-bodied flavors of excellent density and power plus very good length. The intensity does a slow build from the mid-palate and this delivers solid quality in a robust style. 88/2007-12

Domaine Ramonet Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru "Les Ruchottes" 2001
WA:89
Spiced minerals make up the nose of the 2001 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Ruchottes. Light to medium-bodied, focused, and juicy, it offers loads of juicy, lively candied lemons and minerals in its flavor profile. A wine of superb purity, it would have earned an outstanding rating had it been fleshier, deeper, and more concentrated. Projected maturity: 2004-2010.
WS:87
Racy yet also ripe. A good mix of pineapple, pear, mineral and lime. Medium-bodied, it vibrates with intense flavors, offering some toasted oak and menthol. Drink now through 2007. 500 cases made. (PM)
BH:92
There is a bit more of everything with simply beautiful complexity and splendid depth with seemingly endless amounts of sappy, sweet extract and an understated, long, textured and detailed finish. This is not as edgy as the Caillerets and while there is a clear mineral component to this as well, the Ruchottes is rounder and displays brilliant balance between power yet no lack of finesse. This too is most impressive. 92/2009-15

Domaine Ramonet Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru "Les Vergers" 2001
WA:87
Ramonet's 2001 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Vergers impresses the taster with its excellent to outstanding scents and attack, it reveals a short, compressed finish. Aromatically, it displays talcum powder-laced minerals that lead to a lush, satin-textured attack with perfumed stone flavors. Drink it over the next 4 years.
BH:87
Honey, mint and very ripe orchard fruit aromas are followed by extremely rich, supple, relatively easy going flavors and this too finishes almost bone dry with a vibrant acid edge to it. Delicious but this, at least not at the moment anyway, is not nearly as well-balanced as most of the preceding wines. 87/2007-11

Domaine Ramonet Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet 2001
WA:87-89
Creamed spices can be found in the nose of the 2001 Bienvenue-Batard-Montrachet. This wine's future quality will depend on whether it fleshes out as it finishes elevage. If so, it may well deserve an outstanding score. Light to medium-bodied, it reveals loads of minerals and quartz-like flavors in its pure, crystalline, tightly-wound personality. It has lovely concentration, length, and depth yet remains compressed and ungenerous. Projected maturity: 2005-2011.
WS:91
Lovely and very distinctive. Menthol and new-wood aromas, with ultra-sweet fruit--in the tropical sense--offering pineapple, mango and sorbet-like lime mingled with honey. Full-bodied, with a long finish, but you've got to like 'em oaky! Drink now through 2009. 175 cases made. (PM)

Domaine Gros Frère et Soeur Grands Echézeaux 1996
WS:89
Supple and soft, like silk, with cranberry, cassis and wild strawberry notes, this ripe wine shows a lovely sweetness on the palate and a balanced finish laced with subtle oak and milk chocolate. Best from 2003 through 2012. 23 cases imported. (PM)

Cellers Ripoll Sans Priorat "Clasa Batllet-Grattalops" 2001
WA:96
Believe it or not, this wine smelled like a hypothetical blend of the famed Pomerol, Le Pin, and the two distinctive Cabernet Sauvignons from Napa Valley, Colgin and Bryant. Truly great stuff, it boasts an inky/purple color as well as a gorgeous nose of blueberry liqueur intermixed with violets, licorice, toast, and crushed stones. It exhibits massive layers of fruit and body, tremendous purity and palate presence, and a sumptuous finish. Exotic, rich, and distinctive, this is only the second vintage for this producer. Bottled unfiltered after aging in French and American oak for 14 months, it is also fairly priced for a wine this compelling.