2006年5月3日 星期三

悅上海2002 Burgundy餐酒會......(2006.04.28)

每個月固定一次的認真會,這次以餐酒會型式舉辦,嘗試用葡萄酒搭配中式菜餚。主辦人德哥精心準備了三白五紅、八支酒,並且請深諳中菜的酒友d大大大安排一系列菜色,並選在知名中菜廳「悅上海」舉辦。酒的部分不瞎喝,白酒和紅酒分開上,而且並沒有特別指定搭配的菜餚,輕鬆吃喝最重要。

餐酒會在晚上,我則是先請半天假,參加第四屆「IKEA異國風情美食節」,先去吃吃喝喝兼做菜,賣相不重要,東西能吃就好。後來天候不佳,決定搭公車去悅上海。晚上的悅上海很熱鬧,我們仗著人多,來到地下一樓的包廂,酒友d已先到場,正開心地吃著小菜。博大精深的中菜我不算了解,派系多,要記的實在太多了,只能簡單地記一下就好。

小菜我只記得皮蛋豆腐和鹹蛋苦瓜,都很不錯。豌豆雞絲用的是費工的豌豆仁,聽說是由豌豆夾裡一顆顆刮出來的,光是想到那樣的手工就很貴了,時間就是金錢啊!杏仁魚片用上高級圓鱈,炸好再裹上杏仁片,不過油膩,也能嘗到魚肉的鮮甜感,好吃。干貝銀球用的干貝是乾貨,再用小勺將蘿蔔成形為一個個小球(銀球),干貝味足加上甜美的蘿蔔,不錯,也漂亮。無錫脆鱔倒是記不得了;椒鹽明蝦嘛,我不能吃蝦,跳過。

清蒸清蟹則是拆了約四隻螃蟹,蒸得口感剛好。沙鍋紅燒排翅則是用醬油湯煲排翅,排翅不硬,但d說可以再煲得軟腴些,紅燒醬油湯頭算是敗筆,而且居然沒有紅醋?鮑魚烏參的鮑魚僅用上罐頭貨,烏參搭的是紅燒的勾芡濃湯,參脆,但整體不算出色。台塑牛排則是先烤再燒,肉質佳,火工也剛好,很不錯。火胴扁尖雞湯則用上火腿和全雞煲湯,不過油膩且味道豐腴,很不錯。

酒的筆記也不能少,這次依照餐酒會的酒單,依序介紹:


  1. Domaine Michel Laroche Chablis 1er cru "Les Fourchaumes" Vieilles Vignes 2002
    酒液呈淺金黃色,頗淺,邊緣泛透明,液面晶亮。有著略濃的礦石香氣,略帶一些蜂蜜、糖漬水果香氣,略感複雜度,香氣感覺細瘦。入口時感覺到有酸度,酒體適中,口感有些苦,但回溫後有好些,口中仍是輕瘦的果香和礦石香氣。尾韻長度適中,但在舌根處有些帶苦。

  2. Château Génot-Boulanger Puligny-Montrachet "Les Levrons" 2002
    酒液呈淺金黃色,邊緣泛透明,液面晶亮。有著略濃的鳳梨、熱帶水果香氣,略帶一些花香、礦石、奶油香氣,略感複雜度,有細緻感的酒。入口時感覺到有酸度,酒體略強,回溫後口感有些甜,口中有著鳳梨、一些花香、一些桔皮香氣,特別。尾韻長度適中。這支酒回溫後變化較豐富,而且搭菜很棒、水果也不錯。後來酒回溫後,香氣更迷人,白花香、鳳梨、礦石、奶油香氣混合得極好,到此時,更喜歡它了。

  3. François Mikulski Meursault 2002
    酒液呈淺金黃色,邊緣泛透明,液面晶亮。有著略濃的鳳梨香氣,果味較重些,略帶一些礦石、奶油香氣,略感複雜度,風格較2號酒開放些。入口時感覺有酸度,酒體略強,回溫之後口感有些甜,口中香氣以鳳梨、熱帶水果香氣為主,果味的比例較多。尾韻長度適中。

  4. Domaine René Manuel Meursault Rouge "Clos de La Baronne" 2002 (Labouré-Roi)
    酒液呈寶石紅色,邊緣泛粉紅色,液面明亮。有著覆盆子、紅莓果香氣,略帶一些草梗、泥土(大地系)香氣,香氣強度適中,幾無複雜度,有點單調。入口時感覺到有酸度,酒體略強,單寧量適中且已釋出,感覺到有澀度,口中香氣以紅色莓果為主,有些單調。尾韻長度適中。

  5. Domaine Bouchard Père et Fils Beaune du Château 1er cru 2002
    酒液呈略深的寶石紅色,邊緣泛粉紅色,液面明亮。有著較濃郁的覆盆子、紅莓果、草地香氣,略帶一些咖啡香氣,還有一絲奶油香氣,桶子用得不錯,略感複雜度。入口時感覺略有酸度,酒體略強,單寧量適中且已釋出而感覺到有澀度,口中香氣有覆盆子、紅莓果、一些中藥香氣,不算有變化的酒。尾韻長度略短。

  6. Maison Labouré-Roi Hospice de Beaune Beaune 1er cru cuvée Rousseau-Deslandes 2002
    酒液呈較深的寶石紅色,邊緣泛粉紅色,有些偏紅,液面晶亮。有著較濃郁的覆盆子、紅莓果香氣,略帶一些大地系、草地、杉木香氣,一開始香氣有些沉悶,醒一下之後香氣才有好些,略感複雜度。入口時感覺到有酸度,酒體略強,單寧量適中而感覺到有澀度,口中有著覆盆子、紅莓果香氣,果味豐富。尾韻長度適中,有些甘口感。這支酒的酒標有Hospice de Beaune(伯恩濟貧醫院)的標誌。

  7. Domaine des Lambrays Clos des Lambrays 2002
    酒液呈較深寶石紅色,邊緣泛粉紅色,液面晶亮。有著略濃的覆盆子、紅莓果香氣,略帶一些櫻桃、巧克力、橡木香氣,一開始酒液有些沉悶,要醒約半小時後會展開,略感複雜度。入口時感覺到有酸度,單寧量充足但隱藏得好,感覺到有澀度,酒體較強,較有口感,不過仍有些沉悶,醒酒之後才較好些,有著覆盆子、紅莓、櫻桃、橡木香氣,很不錯,是有結構的酒。尾韻長度適中。有著較粗獷堅實的風格,比對書上所寫的,確實有像。酒醒開之後,還有變化一些花香、香水、櫻桃香氣,搭台塑牛小排很好,最後也未見老態,真的是很好的酒,現在喝實在早了。另外值得一提的是,這支酒是主辦人和酒友K一起在法國買的,而且就在是Domaine des Lambrays買的喔!

  8. Domaine Vincent et Philippe Lechénaut Nuits-St.-Georges Les Damodes 2002
    酒液呈深寶石紅色,邊緣泛粉紅色,液面晶亮。有著濃郁的巧克力、櫻桃、覆盆子、花香、木桶、燻烤香氣,有複雜度,香氣變化足,很棒。入口時感覺有酸度,單寧量充足且隱藏,感覺到有澀度,酒體較強,口中有著櫻桃、覆盆子、草地、燻烤香氣,變化豐富,強勁但不過分,單寧在口中有細緻感,骨架結實更兼具肌肉,果然是有結構、有均衡感的好酒。尾韻長度略長些,莓果、櫻桃香氣墊後。是很有結構的好酒,但不那麼地像Nuits-St.-Georges的酒(感覺較像Vosne-Romanée),搭台塑牛小排很好,最後也未見老態,真的是很好的酒,現在喝實在早了。

我最喜歡的酒,大概就是筆記寫的比較多的那幾支。白酒是2號,那Puligny-Montrachet細緻的香氣變化值得玩味,更有少見的花香;紅酒則是7號和8號酒,都產自Côte de Nuits,風格迥異,前者是較舊派的酒,較瘦、較細、一開始不好喝、需要更多時間陳年才會變好喝的酒,後者則是較新派的、甜美、討喜、濃郁,且有陳年空間。我都喜歡,這樣子算是騎牆派嗎?


有現成的紅酒,我們當然……也要趕上時下流行的「紅酒配芭樂」,這也是此次餐酒會的高潮啊!餐廳最後送上了飯後水果,有西瓜(或是橘子)、柳橙(或是芭樂)、芭樂(或是西瓜),後來應大伙要求,餐廳招待我們一整盤的芭樂(但不是燕巢的),大家不亦樂乎,看來有得試了。雖然我很有實驗精神,芭樂滿滿一盤,但是剩下的酒不多,所以沒有把所有的結果都寫下來,只有試了7號和8號酒。結果如下:

芭樂 + 7號酒(Clos des Lambrays= 蘋果(或說紅酒漬酪梨)

芭樂 + 8號酒(Lechénaut= 超大號Lechénaut

這是我參加過最開心的餐酒會,K小姐因為沒有帶芭樂,所以被Jerry大哥猛虧,我們到此時才知道:原來我們寫的網誌,他都有看,而且記得很清楚啊!還好小的網誌寫的,不是吃,就是喝,再來就吃喝一起來,不然就是下台東,果然平淡無奇得很(全世界都知道我有3 La的事情,實在不值一書)。再加上芭樂實驗,笑聲不絕於耳,笑到嘴巴痠,差點笑到肚子痛,實在是快樂到不行。我們也因為K小姐的「壯烈牲」,所以賺到一場金手指EVV vertical的門票,耶~

至於「紅酒配芭樂」的結論?當然是……不寫囉!這種好吃、新奇又好玩的東西.真的需要親身體驗才行……

Domaine Michel Laroche Chablis 1er cru "Les Fourchaumes" Vieilles Vignes 2002
BH:89-92
A noticeable if subtle trace of oak spice underscores a perfumed, citrus suffused nose that precedes thick, concentrated, wonderfully intense and persistence flavors that display a touch of finishing warmth. Very ripe yet this is unmistakably Chablis in origin. Terrific effort. (89-92)/2005-11

François Mikulski Meursault 2002
BH:88-90
This is a big step up in aromatic elegance with hazelnuts and ripe peach and pear notes on the nose that lead to pure, utterly delicious yet entirely serious flavors of exceptionally good intensity and outstanding length. The finishing complexity is something to see and again, this well outperforms its level. (88-90)/2006-10

Domaine René Manuel Meursault Rouge "Clos de La Baronne" 2002 (Labouré-Roi)
WS:87
An attractive mix of honey and mineral notes get a lift from the bright structure. Accents of coffee and spice emerge on the finish. It's open and enjoyable now. Drink now. 200 cases made. (BS)

Domaine Bouchard Père et Fils Beaune du Château 1er cru
2002
WA:86-88
Produced from an assemblage of numerous premier crus, the 2002 Beaune du Chateau (domaine) reveals a red fruit-scented nose as well as a suave, soft personality. It is plump, medium-bodied and filled with sweet red cherry fruit. Drink it over the next 5 years.
BH:88-90
Extremely ripe, though not over ripe black fruit aromas soar from the glass to reveal round, rich, delicious flavors that don’t possess quite the same level of acidity as the prior wines yet the balance remains impeccable on the impressively long finish. (88-90)/2007-12
CC: Boucherottes, Champimont, Cent Vignes, Genet. Better than the sum of its parts I suspect. Rich, fat, ripe and opulent. Very good. From 2008.

Domaine des Lambrays Clos des Lambrays 2002
BH:92
(produced from two large parcels of differing vine age - one that is approximately two-thirds of the blend and is now 45 years of age and a second, smaller group of vines that is approximately 20 years of age). Medium ruby. Aromas of wild berries, game and a subtle note of smoke lead to rich, intense, moderately fat flavors that are wonderfully well-balanced largely because of the racy, indeed bright acidity. This has tightened up considerably since it was bottled with a dusty, sweet and precise finish that is strikingly long. In short, delicious yet entirely serious and a wine that should age gracefully for two decades, perhaps longer. 92/2012+
CC: Fullish colour. Rich, fat, succulent and meaty on the nose. Fullish body. Lovely fruit. Excellent grip. This has complexity, depth and class. Very fragrant. Very long. Very lovely. Very fine. From 2010.

Domaine Vincent et Philippe Lechénaut Nuits-St.-Georges Les Damodes 2002
WA:92-94
Loads of cherries and spices are found in the nose of the 2002 Nuits-St.-Georges Les Damodes. This wine is broad, immensely rich, and has an awesome, liquid satin-like mouth-feel. Candied red cherries, cinnamon, assorted spices, and distant hints of new oak can be found in its ample, sexy, sensual personality as well as in its lengthy finish. Its tannin is sublimely ripe and its personality is perfectly harmonious. Projected maturity: 2006-2015.
BH:87-89
This too is quite reduced but the flavors, and in particular the tannins, are a good deal more refined than in the prior wines. There is a lovely sweetness here if not the same level of complexity with a sappy, fresh, persistent finish. (87-89)/2007-12
CC: Good colour. Full, rich, ripe and ample. Not too aggressively tannic but with plenty of substance. Good grip. Long. Very good plus. From 2010.