2006年4月24日 星期一

Domaine Joseph Roty垂直品飲品酒會和會後會......(2006.04.22)

這場由大亞天母店主辦的品酒會,主要品嘗Gevrey-Chambertin村莊級紅酒,年份由19982002共五個年份,另外還有酒莊的頂級酒款「老老藤(Très Vieilles Vignes)」。這次報名參加的人很多,我是聽到消息後就報名了,聽說還有人候補呢!

Domaine Joseph Roty位於Gevrey-ChambertinRoty家族早在1710 年就在此地釀酒了。莊主Joseph RotyRoty家族第十代子孫,個性倔強、固執兼有幽默感,他堅信酒是土質、氣候、耕耘三者結合的產品,對釀酒親力而為,甚至每組葡萄都經他親自品嚐成熟度、皮厚度、單寧量和甜度等,直到滿意才採收,並依照自然方法釀酒,目前並由長子Philippe接手釀酒工作,僅使用天然酵母,全系列酒款皆在橡中桶中培養至少16個月,頂級酒使用100%全新橡木桶,好年份不過濾即裝瓶。低產量、加上長時間低溫浸泡,讓他釀製的酒有很不尋常的果香、深度和陳年實力。酒莊擁有8.5公頃的葡萄園,皆中集在Gevrey-Chambertin村和Marsannay村,以1公頃的特級葡萄園Charmes-ChambertinCuvée de Très Vieilles Vignes」最有名,樹齡超過85歲;另外,村莊級的「Les Champ Chenys」位在Charmes-Chambertin下坡處,且被一級葡萄園圍繞,品質不輸其它一級葡萄園的紅酒。

這次參加人數較多,大亞還多開一支一級園的酒讓大家品評,真好,所以一共有七支酒了。五支村莊級紅酒都是先倒入杯中,一個半小時後才開始品飲。以下是我品酒的順序和筆記:


  1. Domaine Joseph Roty Gevrey-Chambertin "Les Champ Chenys" 1998
    酒液呈寶石紅色,有帶一些透明感,邊緣泛紅,略偏磚紅色,液面明亮。有著覆盆子、野獸皮革香氣,略帶一些草地和草莓香氣,香氣強度適中,但複雜度低。入口時感覺有酸度,單寧量適中且已釋出而感覺到有澀度,酒體適中,口中有著草莓和一些皮革香氣,單寧有些粗,有著不均衡的口感。尾韻長度適中。猜想這支酒已走下坡了,要快點喝掉了,喝了一個小時左右就渙散了。

  2. Domaine Joseph Roty Gevrey-Chambertin "Les Champ Chenys" 1999
    酒液呈寶石紅色,有帶一些透明感,邊緣泛粉紅,略偏磚紅色,液面晶亮,顏色較
    1號酒深些。有著巧克力、覆盆子、草莓、草地香氣,略帶一些藥草和香料草香氣,木桶很節制,香氣強度略強些,具優雅感,略感複雜度。入口時感覺有酸度,酸度較1號酒高,單寧量適中且還有一些隱藏、細緻,有澀度,酒體適中,口中有著草莓、草地、一些梗味,較甘口,結構很棒。尾韻長度適中。這支酒現在表現正好,未來兩三年都有很好的表現,也是五支村莊酒裡最喜歡的。

  3. Domaine Joseph Roty Gevrey-Chambertin "Les Champ Chenys" 2000
    酒液呈寶石紅色,邊緣泛粉紅色,液面晶亮。有著可可、奶油、覆盆子、草莓香氣,香氣有酒精感,強度適中,有不錯的複雜度。入口時感覺有酸度,但較
    2號酒弱些,單寧量適中、已釋出、但較2號酒粗些,可感澀度,酒體適中,有很不錯的均衡感,口中帶有草莓和一些奶油(或焦糖)香氣,口感有一絲漿果類的甜美感,也很不錯。尾韻長度適中。這支酒現在表現正好,但略遜於1999年,感覺陳年實力也較差,是很中規中矩的酒。

  4. Domaine Joseph Roty Gevrey-Chambertin "Les Champ Chenys" 2001
    酒液呈略深的寶石紅色,邊緣泛粉紅色,略偏紅色,有層次感,液面晶亮。有著焦糖布丁、覆盆子、草莓香氣,略帶一些草本植物和櫻桃香氣,香氣強度略強些,略感複雜度。入口時感覺有酸度,單寧量適中而有些隱藏,有澀度,酒體略強些,口感有些薄,口中酸、澀、酒精未整合好,結構不足,口中帶有草莓、一些梗系、一些奶油香氣,可能是聞比喝好的酒吧。尾韻長度適中。

  5. Domaine Joseph Roty Gevrey-Chambertin "Les Champ Chenys" 2002
    酒液呈深寶石紅色,邊緣泛粉紅色,有層次感,液面晶亮。有著覆盆子、草莓、餅乾香氣,略帶一些奶油、焦糖、薄荷香氣,香氣強度適中,有細緻感,可感複雜度。入口時感覺有度,單寧量適中且隱藏,可感澀度,酒體略強,有些酒精感,口中有著奶油、草莓、覆盆子、一些草地香氣,有結構但還在培養中,可放更久。尾韻長度略長些。無庸置疑地,這是一支很好的村莊級葡萄酒,只是現在還未到最好的時候,還需要數年時間陳年,而且可維持頗長的時間。

綜觀之,Joseph Roty的酒都有類似的莓果類(如覆盆子、草莓香氣)和草系香氣,獨特的梗味、優雅的桶系香氣(個人頗喜歡那獨特的焦糖布丁香氣)是其特色,酸度普遍較高,需要時間柔化酸度後才有好的表現,後來有些酒還變化出李子、中藥草香氣。

我最喜歡的是2號酒,現在才剛開始適飲,還能再放個兩三年,另外5號酒也非常喜歡,再放數年會比現在更好喝、更均衡、更豐富。這兩支酒實力在伯仲之間,只是5號酒需要時間培養,而2號酒已近成熟。接下來才是3號酒,它算是少數2000 Bourgogne村莊級的好酒之一,現在正好喝。同行的酒友d說他不喜歡Roty的酒,原因是「酸度高」,這種動輒要放十年的酒,他沒有幾個十年可以這樣玩,呵~

接下來要品飲一級園和特級園的酒了。一級園是開瓶後直接倒入杯中,靠杯子醒酒;特級葡萄園Charmes-Chambertin「老老藤」已在前面介紹過,講師已先倒入decanter兩小時了。這裡僅寫出自己品飲的筆記:


  1. Domaine Joseph Roty Gevrey-Chambertin 1er cru "Les Fontenys" 2001
    酒液呈深寶石紅色,邊緣泛粉紅色,有層次感,液面晶亮。有著覆盆子、草莓、奶油香氣,略帶一些櫻桃香氣,有一絲甜美感,不過香氣表現沉悶,強度略強些,且略感複雜度。入口時感覺有酸度,單寧量適中且有些隱藏,感覺有澀度,酒體略強,口中僅帶有草莓香氣,結構和變化不足,可能是沒醒的緣故,隱隱可感後續變化性。尾韻長度適中。這支酒倒入杯中約半小時後,才逐漸開展,現在喝早了,需要時間陳年後才能變得更美。還有,喝起來,
    2002村莊級的感覺和它不相上下啊……

  2. Domaine Joseph Roty Charmes-Chambertin "Cuvée des Très Vieilles Vignes" 2000
    酒液呈寶石紅色,邊緣泛粉紅色,有層次感,液面晶亮。有著奶油、樹木(森林)、草莓、覆盆子香氣,略帶一些樹葉香氣,香氣強度適中,不過有沉悶感,可感覺到複雜度,似乎不只如此。入口時感覺有酸度,單寧量適中而感覺到有澀度,口感較堅硬、扎實,酒體略強,是有結構感的酒,單寧比想像的多,口中帶有草莓、青草、一些果醬香氣。尾韻長度略長些。可能是
    decant兩小時的關係,口感足但香氣變化較少,能喝得到特級葡萄園的架勢,現在喝還太早了,需要更多時間陳年後,才能表現它真正的表現吧。

大家都喝得喝開心,我們則是到樓上,準備開始喝酒辦會後會。當天才知道,原來b律師前一天辦了餐酒會,喝了七支Chardonnay白酒,都是好酒,可能幾位酒友前一天喝得太多,也可能我準備的又是一支Chardonnay白酒,所以大家都提不起勁喝。會後會大家都是吃飯聊天,酒喝得很少,先是V公主的Bordeaux,再來是我的白酒:

Château La Conseillante 1993
酒液呈寶石紅色,有些透明,邊緣偏磚紅色,液面明亮。有著黑李子、鉛筆心、木材、大地系(泥土、爛樹葉)香氣為主,幾無複雜度,香氣欠變化,強度適中。入口時感覺有酸度,單寧量適中且已釋出而感覺到有澀度,酒體略強,但有渙散感,口中帶有李子、一些礦石(鉛筆心)、一些皮革香氣,結構不佳。尾韻長度略短。

Domaine Michel Colin-Deléger Chassagne-Montrachet 1er cru En Remilly 1997
酒液呈略深的金黃色,邊緣泛一些黃色,液面晶亮,有著漂的酒色。有著鳳梨、酵母、奶沺香氣,略帶一些礦石、香蕉(熱帶水果)香氣,香氣強度適中,不過可能是太冰了,有些沉悶感,略感複雜度。入口時感覺到有酸度,酒體略強,算有結構的酒,口中有著鳳梨、一些熱帶水果、一些奶油、一些焦糖香氣,很不錯。尾韻長度適中。回溫後香氣較偏奶油系香氣,不過並不過份甜美。這支酒很不幸地讓我背到台東去、再背回來,雖然天氣都不好,不過多少有那麼一絲酒質受損的感覺,可惜了。

很快地結束了慵懶的會後會,下次認真會快點來吧~另外,也可參閱友站的文章「Joseph Roty品酒會」。


Domaine Joseph Roty Gevrey-Chambertin "Les Champ Chenys" 1998
BH:88
Lovely Gevrey fruit laced with earth, anise and spice. This is lovely if not particularly weighty. Very classy juice and clear evidence that villages level Gevrey does not have to be rustic.


Domaine Joseph Roty Gevrey-Chambertin "Les Champ Chenys" 1999
BH:86
Extremely ripe with a roasted quality to the fruit and similar very ripe, roasted flavors that speak more of the Rhone than of Gevrey. While there is quality length and pretty good density, the strong torrefaction character dominates the wine to its detriment. 86/2004-9


Domaine Joseph Roty Gevrey-Chambertin "Les Champ Chenys" 2000
BH:88
The same slightly intrusive ash notes with flavors that offer excellent intensity, acid balance and complexity and admirable density. Solidly structured and quite ripe yet everything remains harmonious and there is extremely good length for a Gevrey villages. 88/2007-12


Domaine Joseph Roty Gevrey-Chambertin "Les Champ Chenys" 2001
BH:86
Wood spice and earthy fruit combine with toasty flavors that display plenty of game and underbrush nuances and a full, rich and ripe finish of moderate precision and good persistence. This builds from the mid-palate and finishes with a mouth coating sappiness. 86/2005-11


Domaine Joseph Roty Gevrey-Chambertin "Les Champ Chenys" 2002
BH:89
The very strong ash component that completely dominated the nose and the flavors is no where to be found though there are hints of wood spice framing the pretty and elegant red cherry fruit aromas. The middle weight flavors are fresh, supple, sweet and round with really impressive purity and transparency of expression. In short, this is really lovely juice and recommended. 89/2008+


Domaine Joseph Roty Gevrey-Chambertin 1er cru "Les Fontenys" 2001
BH:89
Another clear step up in quality with ripe, intense, exuberant aromas of leather, tea, earth and a certain animale character framed in ample oak that combines beautifully with the big, rich, sleek and wonderfully sappy and long flavors. Quite stylish with excellent mid-palate density and my score offers the benefit of the doubt that the oak will be absorbed because it is so dense. 89/2007-13


Domaine Joseph Roty Charmes-Chambertin "Cuvée des Très Vieilles Vignes" 2000
BH:92
The Charmes is even more expressive with ultra ripe, roasted fruit and sweet, rich, warm, slightly alcoholic flavors that offer dazzling complexity and power. This seduces on the front end and then delivers a tidal wave of a finish. There isn’t much nuance yet but I suspect this will develop plenty of complexity as it ages. To be sure, it is bigger, richer and sappier than the Griotte but I marginally prefer the precision and balance of the latter wine in this vintage. 92/2009-16


Château La Conseillante 1993
WA:87
One of Bordeaux's most compellingly seductive wines, La Conseillante's early charm can lead tasters to believe that the wine will not age. However, top vintages of La Conseillante can age for two decades, but they are often drunk immediately after bottling because of their expressive aromatics, velvety texture, and delicious fruit. A well-made wine for the vintage, La Conseillante's 1993 displays an attractive dark ruby color, a black-raspberry, sweet vanillin, alluring bouquet, pretty, low acid, fleshy, round flavors that caresse the palate, and finish with plenty of black fruit and glycerin. Already delicious and flattering, this moderately weighted wine should drink well for 7-8 years.


Domaine Michel Colin-Deléger Chassagne-Montrachet 1er cru En Remilly 1997
WA:88
Displaying floral and perfumed aromas, the Chassagne-Montrachet En Remilly is a rich, dense, and thick offering. It is medium-to-full-bodied, broad, and is crammed with fresh earth, almond paste, and ripe white fruits. Its somewhat pasty finish reveals a warm and alcoholic trait. Projected maturity: now-2003.
WS:90
A unique terroir-driven wine that develops in the glass, showing layers of wet earth, mineral and flint concentration. A bit earthy, but who cares? It coats the palate with real Chardonnay flavors. Drink now through 2002. 455 cases made. (PM)