2006年5月18日 星期四

最近喝到的酒款......(2006.05.11~16)

這陣子喝到不少酒,尤其是好酒,小小的記錄一下。

5/11臨時起意,下班後到TA天母店坐坐,巧遇趙先生在店裡休息。心血來潮下,我先開一支酒,試試酒標上那兩面金牌的真偽:
Evans & Tate Marganet River Shiraz 2002 (13.5%)

酒液呈深紫紅色,液面晶亮,中央深但可透光。有著李子、黑莓果醬、胡椒、紫羅蘭花香、木材香氣,香氣強度適中,變化豐富,非常好聞,略感複雜度。入口時感覺有酸度,單寧量適中且已釋出,可感覺到有澀度,酒體略強,口感有帶一些甜美,單寧感覺頗細緻,在口中也有不錯的果味表現,有著李子果醬、黑莓果醬、燻烤、胡椒香氣,做得很不錯,但聞比喝起來更好。尾韻長度適中,不過隱有一絲苦味。這是一支中規中矩的酒,香氣變化豐富,口感也很不錯,感覺就像是什麼都好、出去比賽會得獎的酒,也因為如此而少了些個性。這支酒榮獲
2005 Sydney International Wine Competition大賽Bleu Gold獎,和2003 Royal Hubert Wine Show Class 49金牌。

接著趙先生加碼一支美國酒,極有名的美國好酒,正巧前一天聽到Y醫師在澳門買了一支一模一樣的酒哩!有機會先嚐到,真好,而且真的是好酒,很喜歡:
Caymus Vineyard Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Special Selection 2000 (14.1%)

酒液呈深紫紅色,顏色很深,中央深不透光,邊緣泛紫且有層次感,液面晶亮。有著黑醋栗、紙板、胡椒、黑莓果醬香氣,略帶一些煙燻、橡木香氣,隱隱有一絲花香,香氣很濃郁,而且風格很外放,酒精感重,有複雜度。入口時感覺有酸度,單寧量充足而感覺到有澀度,重度酒體,酒質很濃郁集中,有著果醬甜美味的口感,口中有著巧克力、黑醋栗、胡椒香氣,在口中仍有酒精感。尾韻長度略長些,甜美的果醬為主。這支酒做得就像「山姆大叔」的樣子,現在就很好喝,也有不錯的陳年空間。

後來TA老主顧許先生來拿酒,也提供一支義大利好酒,使用80% Sangiovese20% Cabernet SauvignonCabernet Franc混合,而且出自極有名的Antinori王國:
Antinori Toscana IGT 'Tignanello' 2000 (13.5%)

酒液呈深紫紅色,顏色很深,中央深不透光,邊緣泛紫,略偏粉紅色,液面晶亮。有著濃郁的黑醋栗、李子、一些紅莓果醬、煙燻香氣,略帶一些杉木、菸草、陳皮(中藥)香氣,很濃郁集中,略感複雜度,隱隱能感覺到變化,但似乎不多。入口時感覺有酸度,單寧量多且充足,已釋出而感覺到有澀度,重度酒體,口感濃郁集中,以果味和草梗香氣為主。尾韻長度適中。後來還有變化出一些烏梅香氣,算是頗討喜的酒。

5/12也是臨時起意,上班上得很累,下班後想去料理自己的杯子,又來到了TA天母店。這天遇到好久不見的洪先生和葉醫師,感謝他們熱情的邀請喝酒。這時候就不用寫筆記了,簡單地記下酒名如下:
Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin Brut Champagne NV
Domaine Bernard-Morey Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chenevotte 2002
Château des Tourettes Côtes du Lubéron "Trilogie d'Endes" 2001
Château Lascombes 2002

5/14母親節,不過我還是沒有當乖小孩,中午跑去天母店,吃著由S小姐帶來的「正港嘉義雞肉飯」,實在好吃,比以前在路邊攤吃到的「雞肉乾」飯好多了。(還是我一直沒吃過好吃的雞肉飯?)下午坐了好一陣子,還是決定喝支白酒解解癮。我要準備宰了生平第一對公雞,之前在Jason's特價買的,一點都不抱什麼期望,沒corky就很好了:
Domaine Leflaive Bourgogne 2001

酒液呈略淺的金黃色,液面晶亮,邊緣有透明感,有層次,很年輕。有著鳳梨、蜂蜜、礦石香氣,略帶一些奶油、堅果(杏桃)、花香、熱帶水果香氣,隱隱有著一股花香和蘋果香氣,做得很漂亮,香氣感覺細緻但有變化,略感複雜度。入口時感覺到有酸度,酒體適中,酸度頗高、有些清脆,口中有著鳳梨、礦石、一點蘋果香氣,頗有結構的好酒,而且似乎太早開了。尾韻長度適中。這支酒表現出乎意料之外的好,而且這只是最低等級的
Bourgogne而已,就有如此值得玩味的變化和口感,現在開真的是太早了,且更讓人期待日後的變化啊!

5/16固定聚會,這次輪到D君開酒,他開了一支Bordeaux 1971的紅酒,其它人知道答案,讓我猜地塊和酒莊,blind tasting真的是很好玩的事情。這支酒並沒有直立放著一天以上,所以他們先換瓶醒酒,我倒的是他們換瓶後、瓶中剩下的酒液,有些濁。酒液是寶石紅色,邊緣已泛茶橘色,有老態,液面明亮。一開始有一絲花香,不過消失的很快,後來僅有著中藥、木材、大地、菌菇香氣,很像醫油炒杏鮑菇的香氣,果味已失,幾無複雜度。入口時感覺有酸度,單寧已散,酒體適中,所以口感並不均衡,只有大地香氣殘留口中,結構已算渙散。尾韻長度適中。

我已知這是一支1971Bordeaux紅酒,這種木材似乎是杉木變化而來,而且有一些大地系、鉛筆芯香氣,所先猜是左岸酒,更有可能是Médoc區;再者,單寧雖已散但酒渣的單寧抓口,應是Cabernet Sauvignon使用比例很高的酒,再依照香氣判斷,Médoc區符合上述條件的村莊大概就是Saint-EstèphePauillacSaint-Julien,高酸度應該是出自高緯度,所以我應該先猜Saint-Estèphe,但我有聞到一些Saint-JulienPauillac的類似香氣,所以猜後者,就槓龜了。

接下來,我知道這支酒來自Saint-Estèphe的列級酒莊,答案四選一:Château MontroseChâteau Cos d'EstournelChâteau Calon-SègurChâteau Lafon-Rochet。這種香氣Cabernet Sauvignon比例很高,先剔除CosCalon-Sègur,再來,我忘了那稍縱即逝、曾經發生過的花香,而只想到那種類似皮革、土地的香氣,這調調很像Lafon-Rochet,就猜了。當然還是錯,正確答案是Château Montrose 1971。這次猜酒只猜對左右岸和大地區,小村莊就錯了,只得40分,好慘……

這一天趙先生則是開了一支新年份的酒和大家一起喝,是一個最近水準提升許多的優質酒莊,由C小姐醒酒,聽說(我沒看到)她用兩個decanter,把酒液來回倒了四次,應該是醒得又快又徹底才是:
Château Pontet-Canet 2001

酒液呈深紫紅色,中央酒不透光,液面晶亮,邊緣泛紫。有著濃郁的奶油、巧克力、燻烤、杉木、黑醋栗、黑莓果、青草香氣,略帶一些焦糖、皮革香氣,桶味很重(是把桶味都醒出來了嗎?),略感複雜度,
Merlot比例不算低。入口時感覺有酸度,單寧量充足且有些隱藏,而感覺到有澀度,酒體偏重,單寧在口中有細緻感,很不錯,有一絲甜美,口中有著黑醋栗、黑莓果、杉木、奶油、咖啡糖香氣,桶味重,結構佳。尾韻長度適中。這是一支好酒,現在有些硬,適飲期不會太長。

最後我再補上一支Loire Valley的不甜白酒,除了refresh口腔之外,也試試它的味道:
S. A. Huët Vouvray Sec "Le Mont" 2004

酒液呈淺金黃色,液面晶亮、純淨,邊緣泛透明、有層次感。有著花香、礦石、蘋果、香料草香氣,略帶一些
zesty fruit、煤油、蜂蜜香氣,香氣強度適中,略感複雜度。入口時感覺有酸度,酒體適中,酸度拉得有些高,不過頗好喝,結構佳,口中有著花香、礦石、煤油、清新水果、果蜜香氣,很不錯的酒。尾韻長度適中。

Caymus Vineyard Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Special Selection 2000
WS:92
Richly flavored and beautifully crafted, with well-defined currant, cassis, blackberry and plummy Cabernet flavors that are mouthcoating, finishing with intricate coffee, mocha and pencil lead flavors. Big, ripe tannins are firm but polished. Best from 2004 through 2012. 2,600 cases made. (JL)

Antinori Toscana IGT 'Tignanello' 2000
WS:90
A big, rich and spicy Tignanello, with hints of smoky wood. Full-bodied, with silky tannins and a medium finish. Chewy. Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Best after 2007. 27,000 cases made. (JS)

Château des Tourettes Côtes du Lubéron "Trilogie d'Endes" 2001
WS:91
Rich, thick and ripe, with impressive intensity of clean, focused, pure fruit. Gamy, even a bit earthy, but complex, with blackberry and red berry flavors and light doses of oak. Firm tannins are kept in check by the terrific fruit. An irresistible wine from Burgundy exiles Jean-Marie and Maine Guffens that sets new standards of quality in the Luberon area. Drink now through 2007. 1,300 cases made. (PM)

Domaine Leflaive Bourgogne 2001
BH:84-86
(includes some declassified villages wine). While this can't match the simply unbelievably good 2000, this is still one very pretty Bourgogne with rich, pure, attractively focused white flower fruit aromas followed by forward, supple flavors of good depth and fine length. A worthy successor to the 2000. (84-86)/2004-9

Château Montrose 1971
WA:86
At peak, the 1971 Montrose is attractive, with an enthralling leathery, cedary, ripe, fragrant, fruity bouquet, supple, moderately rich flavors, and medium body. It is still charming and surprisingly well endowed for a 1971. Owners of this wine should make plans to drink it up. Anticipated maturity: Now. Last tasted, 2/87.

Château Pontet-Canet 2001
WA:89
One of the great estates of the Medoc, Pontet-Canet has enjoyed increasing attention as well as a draconian selection process by owner Albert Tesseron ever since his breakthrough vintage of 1994. The 2001 does not possess the power of the 2000 or the huge 2003, but it is still a very fine albeit tannic, lighter wine. A blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Merlot, and small percentages of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, it was produced from modest yields of 37 hectoliters per hectare. Revealing classic cassis aromas, medium to full body, a firm structure with plenty of finesse, a closed personality, and dominant as well as intrusive tannin, it should age well for 12-20 years, but patience will be required. Certainly the concentration appears up to the level of the tannin. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2017.
WS:90
Enticing blackberry and licorice character, with a tiny bit of tobacco. Full-bodied, with silky tannins and a serious finish. Best after 2007. (JS)