2005年6月27日 星期一

Chablis一級與特級葡萄園品酒會後會......(2005.06.25)

品酒會後,當然就是會後會了。如果說品酒會是認真會,是有主題的話,那會後會通常就是散漫會,是大亂鬥。雖然以前我們也有好好地討論主題,好好地想要辦一場有主題的會後會,不過常常失敗,可能是因為大家喝開了、喝得很盡興的關係吧!這次,也不例外。

會後會首先由Dugat碎開始,他先貢獻了一支好白酒,放在Chablis眾白酒之後喝,實在剛好:

Domaine d'Auvenay Bourgogne Aligoté Sous Chatelet 1998(苦主碎大大大提供)
酒液呈金黃色,頗深,是頗成熟的顏色。有著頗濃郁的餅乾、爆米花、香蕉、鳳梨、奶油香氣,我覺得還有一些奶油糖的香氣。入口感覺酒體適中,酸度偏低,在口中能變化出一些烘焙茶葉、餅乾、糖漬鳳梨香氣,很美妙,目前喝是最好的時候。尾韻長度略短。其它酒友也有喝過這支酒,可參考「散漫會---(四)白酒小會串」。這是我喝過最圓厚飽滿的Aligoté,但也是最不像AligotéAligoté

一邊喝著Aligoté,一邊討論待會要喝的主題,後來決定喝2000年的隆河,Cathyd大大、碎大大大和我就分別找酒,再加上吳先生提供的一支2001 CNDP,總共五支。很有主題吧?統統是隆河,而且有四支是CNDP,一支Hermitage,年份都是一時之選呢!我把其中三支同年份的CNDP包起來,作blind tasting,在喝的時候就有寫下筆記,不過對於Cathy、碎大大大、d大大、吳先生來說,這樣的blind tasting實在很簡單,而且他們都猜對了。他們的說法是酒莊風格很明顯,所以是很容易猜到,對我而言,統統沒試過,根本就是亂猜。五支隆河酒的筆記如下:







Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Crau 2000(苦主小戶我提供)

酒液呈深寶石紅色,邊緣頗深,very young。有著大地、落葉、紅莓果、BBQ、燒烤味,果味豐沛、集中,略帶有一些香料、焦糖香氣,略感複雜度,可能是一支適飲的酒。入口時感覺口感略甜,酒體強壯厚實,以莓果的甜味為主,單寧充足且已釋出而感有澀度,有酸度,有些均衡感,不過仍能感覺到強壯的肌肉。尾韻帶甜美果味,長度適中。後來還有變化出一些香水的香氣。


Domaine du Pegau Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Résérvée 2000(苦主碎大大大提供)
酒液呈深寶石紅色,頗深,邊緣顏色深。有著明顯的燒肉、大地、草地、落葉、紅莓果香氣,香氣感覺豐沛,而且似乎更濃些,略感複雜度。入口感覺口感略甜,酒體堅實濃厚,口感以莓果果醬的甜味為主,單寧充足不過仍僅略感澀度,略有酸度,可以感覺到強勁結實的肌肉。尾韻有些許莓果甜味,長度略長些。

Clos des Papes Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2000(苦主Cathy提供)
酒液呈深寶石紅色,頗深,邊緣顏色深,very young。一開始時僅有薄弱的莓果、大地、香辛料味,略帶一些BBQ、煙燻味,很封閉,需要一些時間醒酒。入口時感覺口感略帶莓果果醬甜味,單寧充足且已釋出而略感澀度,略有酸度,酒體強勁厚實,骨架和肌肉兼具的好酒。尾韻長度適中。這支酒約15分鐘後開展,有著豐富多變的香氣,如可可、焦糖等,略感均衡度。

Paul Coulon & Fils Châteauneuf-du-Pape Boisrenard 2001(苦主吳先生提供)
酒液呈深寶石紅色,邊緣顏色深,very young。有著豐富濃郁的大地、白煮蛋、紅莓果、燒肉香氣,略帶一些薄荷、草地、香辛料味,感覺甜美。入口時感覺口感帶有莓果果醬甜味,單寧充足且已出現而感澀度,有酸度(酸度和澀度都較前面三支2000 CNDP高),酒體強勁,骨架和肌肉分明,有著好酒的架勢。尾韻長度略長些。

Domaine de Remizières Hermitage Cuvée Emilie 2000(苦主d大大提供)
酒液呈深紫紅色,邊緣顏色頗深,very young。一開始即有豐沛的胡椒、香料、燒肉、莓果、薄荷、涼草蓆香氣,頗具複雜度。入口感覺口感微甜口,單寧足且強勁,澀度足,有酸度,酒體厚實,有著完整堅實的結構,兼具骨幹和肌肉。尾韻長度適中,略帶甘草甘味和香氣。放一陣子後還出現更濃郁的草莓果醬、可可香氣,香氣變化足,很美妙。

這五支隆河都是很年輕的酒,在杯裡隨便都可以撐四個小時不死,一直到會後會結束,五支隆河酒都沒有死掉,我也一直感覺到他們豐富的變化和越加雄壯的口感,這真的是太美妙、太神奇了。突然想到,她是很喜歡喝隆河酒的,可能就是因為這種甜美又厚實的口感,還有濃郁多變化的香氣吧!

品酒會成員之一的蝦子則是貢獻一支Loire白酒,從此開始,會後會變成大亂鬥,哈~不過大亂鬥又有什麼關係呢?大家開心最重要囉!剛才我們已經做了五支隆河酒的功課,再早之前還有六支Chablis白酒的品酒會,功課是做得夠多了,別再用功品酒,好好喝一喝吧!

Domaine des Baumard Savenières Clos de Papillon 1979(苦主蝦子提供)
酒液呈金黃色,顏色頗深,接近茶色。有著頗濃的烘焙茶葉、蜂蜜、草地香氣,不過可能是太冰了,感覺香氣有些lack,略帶有一些白花香。入口時感覺酒體適中,略有酸度,酒並不甜口,不過仍有不錯的香氣表現,可感到酒體結構很好。尾韻甘口,長度略長些。後來回溫後,又有了香水、甘草、糖漬水果等香氣,是一支略感厚實卻有變化的酒。對了,這支正好是台長出生年的酒,這麼老的Loire白酒還是第一次喝到呢!






再來換我了,日前就已經講好今天要開一支香檳來喝,好想用砍的,不過我從來都沒有用那麼長的海軍軍刀砍香檳呢!拿著Paul的軍刀,到外面練習砍一砍,結果「剝」一聲,開了,哇哈哈~切口還滿漂亮的嘛,只是不知道瓶塞飛到那裡去了。喝的是Moët et Chandon Brut Champagne Impérial,喝過幾次了,Moët就是Moët,就是個不錯的香檳。是我的嘴被養刁了嗎?……回想到去年在涵碧樓的第三天,我叫了Room Service,第一次喝到Moët,配合著湖光山色,覺得Moët香檳真好喝……


喝香檳兼大啖鮭魚,實在很搭。大家仍然意猶未盡,提議再開白酒喝喝。我和Cathy各貢獻一支德國白酒,都是2003 Kabinett,可以再做一次水平品飲了。有些酒友認為2003的德國白酒根本沒有Kabinett,因為連Kabinett等級的白酒都滿甜的,今天這兩支就當作是甜酒吧,作為最後的結束囉!大家都喝的很盡興,能好好做下筆記的人(就訴偶)實在不錯……

Grans-Fassian Trittenheimer Riesling Kabinett 2003(苦主Cathy提供)
酒液呈很淺的黃綠色,液面晶亮,very young。有著清新的蘋果、鳳梨香氣,略帶一些蜂蜜和礦石香氣,香氣的感覺很清新怡人。入口口感清新怡人,略感甜口,略有酸度,酒體頗輕。尾韻長度適中。







Künstler Rheingau Riesling Kabinett 2003(苦主小戶我提供)

酒液呈很淺的黃綠色,液面明亮,very young。有著蜂蜜、水煮鳳梨、香蕉、蘋果香氣,略帶一些礦石香氣,香氣明顯感覺偏甜美、濃郁些。入口時感覺口感偏甜,略有酸度,酒體適中,感覺怡人、頗討喜。尾韻長度適中。


開的酒很多,會後會也接近尾聲了,我把自己開的、沒喝完的隆河酒和德國白酒帶回家,還有Moët的空瓶回家做紀念(其實是要拔酒標下來)。在會後會一開始F君有開了一支紅酒,不過他沒喝完就先走了,還有剩一點點,很好奇那次他買的那一票酒的品質(據說是熱到不行的中興百貨樓下超市的出清貨),就來試試看囉:

Château Smith-Haut-Lafitte 1997(苦主F君提供)
酒液呈深紅色,帶些磚紅色。有著落葉、菌菇、一些黑醋栗和黑莓果的香氣,略感複雜度,不過香氣似乎已不再變化。入口時口感很強,有酸度,澀度明顯,酒體濃厚,且肌肉充足,單寧已釋放。尾韻長度適中,以大地系香氣為主。落草和菌菇類香氣太過明顯了,莓果香氣出奇地弱,是產地特色,還是儲存環境的問題呢?

碎大大大和Cathy後來相約去Tutto Bello吃松露薯條,不過我是準備回家了,回家前再試試一開始倒的五支隆河酒,統統都沒死,仍然活力充沛,看來小小的杯子是無法完全展現它們豐富飽滿多變的香氣和口感的啊!會後會總是讓我大開眼界,這次,也不例外。




Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe Châteauneuf-du-Pape Le Crau 2000

WA:91

The 2000 Vieux-Telegraphe Chateauneuf du Pape exhibits a deep ruby/purple color as well as a big, jammy, black fruit-scented nose with notions of pepper, cherry liqueur, and minerals. While fat and unctuously-textured, with abundant jamminess, high tannin in the finish gives the wine structure and grip. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2025.

WS:85

Intense and flavorful, but not very charming or balanced. This is a masculine, muscular and firm wine, medium-bodied and dark-colored, with lots of black fruit, cedar and tobacco box notes. Turns very chewy and tough on the finish, but with time it might soften. Best from 2005 through 2010. 15,000 cases made. (PM)


Domaine du Pegau Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Résérvée 2000

WA:95

The 2000 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Reservee may be one of the few 2000s that is better than its 1998 counterpart. A deep ruby/purple color is accompanied by sweet aromas of creme de cassis, kirsch liqueur, cedar, licorice, and pepper. It smells like an open-air Provencal market. Sweet, fat, opulent, and voluptuous, with fabulous fruit concentration, sweet tannin, and a long, 45+ second finish, this powerful, deep, seamless 2000 is impeccably well-balanced. A tour de force in traditional Chateauneuf du Pape, it is accessible now, but should age easily for 15-20 years. This is one of the benchmarks for traditionally-made Chateauneuf du Pape. Paul Feraud, a classmate of Henri Bonneau, is still involved in the running of this estate, but he has given more and more responsibility to his charming, talented daughter, Laurence. Readers looking for uncompromising Chateauneuf du Pape that can age for two decades need look no further than Pegau. Their primary vineyard plots are well-placed lieux-dits called Monpertuis, Rayas, and La Crau, the latter being the parcel from which the bulk of Pegau's wine emerges.

WS:89

Beautiful traditional Chateauneuf, all built around mineral, smoke, leather and plum aromas. Good balance in this medium- to full-bodied red thanks to the clean, fresh fruit. The tannins are ripe but clamp down on the finish--a wine created for a great steak! Drink now through 2020. 5,000 cases made.


Clos des Papes Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2000

WA:95

The 2000 Chateauneuf du Pape reveals 14.6% alcohol, and is stylistically similar to the great 1990. The 2000 is open-knit and fat, with higher levels of glycerin as well as a more corpulent style than the structured, backward 2001. A deep ruby/purple color is followed by sweet, black cherry/kirsch liqueur-like notes presented in a voluptuous, full-throttle, intense style. It is already revealing such secondary nuances as pepper, garrigue, and truffles. Chewy, full-bodied, and moderately tannic, this cuvee is accessible, but not ready to drink. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2025.

WS:87

Very pretty, almost delicate, of medium body and medium concentration. The soft and supple tannins are sleek and easy to appreciate. It'll be hard to resist enjoying it on release, with its burst of red and black fruit on the succulent finish. Drink now through 2006. 8,915 cases made. (PM)


Paul Coulon & Fils Châteauneuf-du-Pape Boisrenard 2001

WS:95

Seductive, ultramodern, dark-purple, blockbuster Chateauneuf. Oozes rich, ripe flavors in a silky, caressing texture that's coated by roasted/toasted oak accents ranging from tar to grilled meat, toasted bread to roasted chestnuts and all sorts of spices. A showpiece, this is one to lay down. But don't expect much Chateauneuf subtlety. Best from 2007 through 2025. 1,000 cases made. (PM)


Domaine de Remizières Hermitage Cuvée Emilie 2000

WA:92

The outstanding 2000 Hermitage Cuvee Emilie (10,000 bottles produced) is one of the vintage's top Hermitages. A blend of fruit grown in the Rocoules (20%) and l'Hermite (80%) vineyards, it is a dense ruby/purple-colored effort displaying notes of licorice, fennel, sweet blackberry fruit, vanilla, and roasted coffee. Supple, fleshy, medium to full-bodied, and low in acidity, it is ideal for drinking over the next 10-15 years.

WS:83

Intense and crisp Hermitage, with an earthy, mineral, grilled meat character. Firm tannins and a citrusy finish; it needs time to soften. Best from 2005 through 2010. 1,000 cases made. (PM)


Château Smith-Haut-Lafitte 1997

WA:87

Splendid aromatics of tobacco, ripe black currant fruit, minerals, and toasty oak emerge from this dark ruby-colored effort. Quintessentially elegant, with sweet fruit on the attack, medium body, and no hard edges, this smoothly-textured wine can be drunk now as well as over the next 10-12 years.

WS:88

A wine with lovely tobacco, toasted oak and berry character. Medium in body, with silky tannins and a long, flavorful finish. Smith-Haut-Lafitte is really doing well. Drink now through 2004. (JS)