2005年6月16日 星期四

好酒.好生活......(2005.06.14~15)

這兩天喝了幾支好酒,除了背景分數(就是某些酒評家給的分數)好看之外,也都很好喝,曾為書記官的我,就記錄下來囉~

6/14正逢舍弟生日,人逢喜事精神爽,生日嘛,當然是要好好慶祝一下的。為投壽星所好,我自己先開一支甜美取向的紅酒作開場:

Pierre Usseglio & Fils Châteauneuf-du-Pape 1998(苦主小戶我提供)
酒液呈深紅色,略偏紫,邊緣顏色頗深,very young。靜置時即有濃郁豐富的草莓、紅莓果、覆盆子等莓果果醬香氣,還帶有溼草地、藥草、胡椒、煙燻、可可和奶油香氣,變化足,略感複雜度,搖晃後更感甜美。入口時感覺酒體強勁厚實,酸度略低,單寧充足且細緻,但隱藏得很好而感澀度略低,口感頗甜美、集中,以豐富的莓果類香氣和木材香氣為主。尾韻長度適中,以莓果甜味和甘草味為主。這是一支可以陳年的CNDP,現在開似乎仍嫌太早了些,中段會轉出甘草和櫻桃為主的甜美香氣,實在討喜。

這支酒「可能」因為其甜美的口感,讓舍弟對隆河酒的印象加分不少。被不良葛格誘拐進葡萄酒這個無底洞的他,喝到第一支酒就是Sauternes甜白酒,從此愛上了Souternes又濃又甜的甜白酒,第二次喝到GuigalCôtes du Rhone,對隆河丘的酒印象頗佳。他真的很喜歡甜美取向的酒,紅、白酒都一樣,尤其偏好Sauternes甜白酒。

喝了CNDP的紅酒後,心情大悅的他,選擇開一支極高分的甜白酒,作為這一天的Ending,可愛的C小姐幫忙買了甜點-Dreyer's巧克力棉花糖冰淇淋和Haagen-Dazs草莓冰淇淋:

Château de Suduiraut 2001(苦主舍弟提供)
一開始開瓶就能聞到濃濃的蜂蜜、堅果味,不用倒入杯中也可以聞得到,瓶塞也有濃郁的香氣。酒倒入杯中後,呈金黃色,想必是極為年輕的酒。靜置時很容易地聞到香蕉、鳳梨、洋梨、李子、白花、蜂蜜、蜜餞、糖漬水果味,略帶一些酵母、吐司、奶油、堅果、杏仁果的香氣,香氣感覺極濃郁厚重、濃到化不開,搖晃後又再出現較淡的清涼水果感覺,香氣感覺頗具複雜度。入口後,鳳梨、香蕉、蜂蜜、蜜餞、糖漬水果味極明顯,口感極濃郁,完完全全地full-bodied,和之前喝過的二軍酒比起來,實在是小巫見大巫,且酒帶有頗高的酸度,所以並不會過於甜膩,反而更增加口感複雜的變化,結構很讚。餘韻很長很長,濃郁的蜂蜜、糖漬水果、熱帶水果香氣殘留口中久久不散,而且不時會轉出淡淡的焦糖糖漿香氣,實在是太美妙了!開瓶一陣子後,口感和香氣仍然維持著,而且仍能感到豐富的變化。這種酒,可以陳年,也可以放好幾支自己留著好好享受享受。

搭配Haagen-Dazs草莓冰淋淇,更能提出冰淋淇裡草莓的果香和冰淇淋口感,草莓口味更能提出酒裡的酸度,讓口感拉得更長,是以前沒有過的奇妙體驗。原來,甜白酒搭配草莓冰淇淋的口感,如此美妙……如果還有機會,我也很想搭鵝肝(藍黴cheese試過了),嘗試這種經典組合。

6/15固定聚會,原想說上星期要喝幾支很昂貴的好酒,我則負責準備香檳開場,結果有一位朋友缺席,好酒少一支,哈~不過沒關係,我開的這支香檳,背景分數也不錯,不會被打槍的:







A.R. Lenoble Brut Champagne Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru 1995(苦主小戶我提供)

酒液呈略淺的金黃色,氣泡細緻、綿密且均勻,液面晶亮,very young。靜置時即有豐富的青蘋果、洋梨、烤吐司、酵母香氣,略帶一些堅果、杏仁香氣,香氣感覺清新細緻,略感複雜度。入口時感覺氣泡細緻,長度適中,帶有清新的青蘋果、洋梨、烤吐司、堅果香氣,酒體適中,酸度有些尖銳,所以可感覺到酸度明顯,不甜,口感略顯偏酸而略感不均衡。尾韻長度適中,帶有清新的蘋果、洋梨香氣,後來略轉出一些焦糖香氣,很妙。氣泡支撐約15分鐘開始減少,不過仍有細緻的口感。這支香檳曾被Robert Parker介紹為最好的Champagne Blanc de Blancs之一,品質不凡,雖然已經喝過多次,不過仍有相當的好水準。


邊喝香檳,D君也邊找尋當天要開的酒,一開始執著於1998年右岸的酒,後來發現沒有中意的酒,就開了一支左岸酒喝喝。Bordeaux紅酒他的喜好和我差不多,喜歡St.-Julien勝於Pauillac







Château Loville Barton 1993(苦主D君提供)

酒液呈深紅色,邊緣仍略感偏透明紅色,仍感strong。靜置時即有豐富的黑醋栗、黑莓果、溼紙板、溼草地、清新森林、麥桿草、泥土香氣,略帶一些奶油、燻烤、松露香氣,變化豐富,具複雜度。入口時感覺酒體頗強,單寧充足且已逐漸釋出,酸度適中,頗具均衡感,入口以大地系香氣為主,略帶莓果甜味,非常均衡。尾韻長度適中,有些回甘的乾草香氣和莓果甜味。這樣的均衡感維持約一個半小時不退,單寧感覺充足且細緻,實在是很不錯的好酒,目前已進入適飲期。


一開始喝的時候,我還把一些些紅酒加到Blanc de Blancs香檳裡,試著模擬出Rosé的顏色(和口感),結果紅酒放的多了些,Rosé的顏色太深了,有點像黑醋栗調酒的顏色,不過真的在這支混合的Rosé裡聞到黑醋栗和黑莓果香氣,實在美妙。紅酒後來仍有著變化,這支酒真的夠濃、夠強、夠集中,尤其在1993年這個左岸的爛年份,更有著難得的好表現。這兩天喝了四款酒,實在好喝,紅酒、白酒和香檳都有很好的表現,真好……


Pierre Usseglio & Fils Châteauneuf-du-Pape 1998

WA:90

The 1998 Chateauneuf du Pape exhibits a roasted herb, concentrated style with notes of scorched earth, licorice, cherry liqueur, and pepper. Full-bodied and intense, it is representative of a traditional Chateauneuf du Pape made from primarily Grenache. Anticipated maturity: 2001-2015.

WS:84

A dark-colored red, extracted for maximum show, with an exotic floral, cassis and blackberry character, but little charm. Tastes hard and slightly hot, with drying tannins on the finish. Best from 2002 through 2008. 2,915 cases made. (PM)


Château de Suduiraut 2001

WA:98

A prodigious effort, possibly the finest Suduiraut since 1959, the medium gold-colored 2001 offers notes of creme brulee, caramelized citrus, Grand Marnier, honeysuckle, and other exotic fruits as well as a pleasant touch of oak. With terrific acidity, a voluptuous/unctuous palate, and sweet, powerful flavors buttressed by crisp acidity, it is a phenomenal Sauternes. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2040.

WS:99


A.R. Lenoble Brut Champagne Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru 1885

WA:92

A creamy, silky-textured beauty, the 1995 Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs (L-391-101-01) displays white flower and toast aromas. This sexy, sensual Champagne is loaded with spiced apple, toast, and pear flavors. It is generous, broad, vinous, ripe, and exceptionally long in the finish. Projected maturity: now-2009. Note: The exact lot numbers (found on the neck) of the bottles tasted are listed so that consumers can distinguish them from prior or future bottlings.

WS:91

Seamless and velvety texture, unfolding its bread dough, honey, citrus and dried fruit flavors on a solid frame. Still fresh and invigorating, ending with a hazelnut aftertaste. Drink now through 2005. 5,000 cases made. (BS)


Château Loville Barton 1993

WA:88

It is no secret that Anthony Barton's efforts over the last decade at his St.-Julien estate, Leoville-Barton, is resulting in terrific wines at still reasonable prices. This estate has been extremely successful in recent vintages. One of the biggest, richest, most impressive wines of the vintage, Leoville-Barton's 1993 reveals a saturated black/purple color, dense, foresty, rich, blackcurrant, and chocolatey aromas and flavors, excellent ripeness and depth, good glycerin, and hard tannin in the finish. This is a backward, exceptionally well-endowed 1993 that needs another 5-7 years of cellaring. It should keep for 20 years.

WS:88

Leoville Barton continues to move up. Bright berry flavor and a lovely, silky tannin structure. Wonderful ripe fruit and long, delicious finish. Very well made.