2005年5月8日 星期日

氣泡酒品酒會......(2005.05.07)

(由左至右是第0至第7號酒,將在後面說明)

日前影印紙大大在紙漿工廠辦了這場品酒會,主題是NV Sparkling Wine of the World,選了幾支不同產地的氣泡酒來品飲。除此之外,我們也嘗試用WSET systematic approach to taste sparkling wine裡提到的各項指標,來品飲這些氣泡酒。這是一種學習,尤其對經驗少的我來說更是值得。

影印紙大大先說明WSET systematic approach to taste sparkling wine裡的指標,基本上分為四大項:AppearanceNosePalateConclusion,不過Conclusion在這次並未使用。Appearance即是觀察顏色氣泡多寡,此部分佔3分,簡單地說,酒液顏色不會混濁(bright or clean)即可得3Nose即是聞香,分辨香氣種類和強度,此部分佔7分,簡單地說,此部分評分由4分開始計算,聞到一個系列的香氣即加0.5分;Palate即是品嘗,分辨氣泡酒的甜度、酒體、香氣(種類和強度)、酒精和尾韻長度,此部分佔10分,簡單地說,此部分以5分為基準,尾韻若是好的香氣類型,則長度每5秒即加0.5分。這套英國系統的滿分是20分,不過能得到高分其實並不容易。

一邊介紹,一邊也要有對照組供試驗。這次的0號酒即是暖身兼試驗用的,產自南非的氣泡酒:

0. Nederburg Premières Cuvée Brut NV (13)
A: clear, small bubble with long persistence, white to pale lemongreen color.
N: clean, light-to-middle intensity with fresh fruit(apple, pear), floral(white flower), light intensity of biscuit.
P: dry, light-bodied, small aggressive bubble, light intensity flavor of fruit, biscuit, yeast, middle alcohol, very short finish.
d大大有聞到荔枝的香氣,影印紙大大則形容花香帶有一些紫羅蘭。這支氣泡酒的香氣頗有Chadonnay的風格,大家也不約而同地猜到使用的葡萄品種。不過後來查證的結果卻非如此,這酒是使用Chenin BlancCape RieslingSauvignon Blanc混合釀製而成,看來我被騙的很徹底啊~

接下來,真正要開始品飲了,我使用上述的系統來記下自己的品飲記錄。

1. Moët-Chandon Brut Champagne Imperal NV (13.5)
A: clear, small bubble with middle persistence, pale to middle lemon color. 0號酒深。
N: clean, middle intensity of apple, pear, biscuit, yeast, light mineral, ripeness, floral flavor.
P: off-dry, integrated, mid-bodied, small creamy bubble, middle intensity of apple, pear, yeast, light banana, mineral, mid-to-high alcohol, short finish.
這支酒大名頂頂,有著LVMH的超大光環加持,相信不用再多作介紹了。

2. Monmousseau Demi-Sec Touraine NV (13)
A: clear, small bubbles with middle persistence, pale lemon color.
N: clean, light mineral (clay, iron) with a little bit floral.
P: sweet, mid-integrated dosage, light-bodied, small-to-mid aggressive bubbles, middle floral, pear, banana, pineapple, yeast, mid-alcohol, middle finish.
這支是產自Touraine的氣泡酒(AC Touraine),位在法國Loire Valley的中心。依照AOC的規定,應是採用Chenin BlancSauvignon Blanc所釀製,這支氣泡酒即帶有較濃的Chenin Blanc香氣,不過仍有一些特殊的花香。後來查證的結果,這支酒是使用100% Chenin Blanc釀製。

3. Henkell Dry-Sec Troken Fine Sekt NV (13.5)
A: bright, small bubbles with short persistence, white lemongreen color.
N: clean, light yeast, floral (white flower), melon flavor.
P: mid-dry, mid-integrated dosage, light-bodied, middle aggressive bubbles, light melon, floral, mid-alcohol, short finish.
原來德國的氣泡酒叫Sekt,不過我其實不太懂什麼叫「Dry-Sec」?是Dry還是Sec?甜還是不甜呢?我的感覺是半干(半甜半不甜),後來經酒友說明,才知其實法文的Sec、德文的Trocken、英文的Dry,都是表達相同的意思,就是「不甜」。這支氣泡酒並非以德國的主流葡萄品種釀製,反而使用法國常用的ChardonnaySauvignon BlancPinot NoirChenin Blanc,這樣的酒也是第一次喝到哩!

4. Pacific Echo Brut NV (14.5)
A: clear, middle long-persisted bubble, pale lemon color.
N: clean, mid-intensity of yeast, spicy (BBQ, 滷肉), blue cheese, light tropical fruit.
P: dry, mid-integrated, mid-bodied, middle-sized creamy bubbles, middle intensity of yeast, tropical fruit, spice (BBQ, 滷肉), mineral, mid-alcohol, middle finish.
這支氣泡酒在d大大的網頁已提過,不過今天品嘗的時候,大家卻異口同聲說出有滷肉味,而且經確定附近人家沒有燉一大鍋滷肉!真是奇妙的經驗啊~除了滷肉味,d大大說這是由ChadonanyPinot Noir混合而成,不過我並沒有聞到Pinot Noir的莓果香氣,有可能是太淡了所以聞不到,想一想剛才的滷肉味也有可能是Pinot Noir的另一種香氣吧。後來經酒友說明,不易聞到熟悉的莓果香氣是因為釀造白色氣泡酒時,所使用的Pinot NoirPinot Meunier之類的紅葡萄是用非常輕柔的方式榨汁,以避免葡萄皮的顏色跑出來,而熟悉的莓果香氣是來自葡萄皮,自然這樣的香氣就不易被榨出來了。

5. Mondoro Asti NV (DOCG) (13.5)
A: clear, middle bubbles with middle persistence, white almost colorless.
N: clean, light tropical fruit (pineapple, banana), pear, a little bit yeast and biscuit.
P: sweet, mid-integrated, light-bodied, small creamy but short-persisted bubbles, light pear, pineapple, yeast, low-alcohol, short-finish.
在眾多氣泡酒裡,它的特徵實在明顯,一聞就能感覺到Moscato特有的香氣,口感清爽,在大熱天喝起來應該是很過癮的吧。

6. Green Point Brut NV (15)
A: clear, small and long-persisted bubbles, white lemongreen color.
N: clean, light-to-mid intensity of yeast, drug (bitter), tropical fruit flavor.
P: off-dry, mid-integrated, mid-bodied, small and creamy bubbles, light-to-mid intensity of yeast, toast, pineapple, apple, pear, a little bit floral, mineral and drug, mid-alcohol, middle finish.
這支是混合ChadonnayPinot Noir的澳洲氣泡酒,可能Green Point嘗試地想要在澳洲也釀出舊世界風格的氣泡酒吧。不過較特別的是香氣和口腔裡都會帶有像藥一樣的苦味,尾韻似乎也受此影響而帶有苦味。

7. Segura Viudas Cava Brut 2000 (12.5)
A: clear, small bubbles with mid-persisted, white to pale lemon color.
N: clean, light intensity of lemon, pineapple, lime, a little bit spice.
P: off-dry, mid-unbalanced, mid-bodied, middle-sized aggressive bubbles, middle intensity of spice and tropical fruit, mid-alcohol, short finish.
這支是西班牙有年份的Cava哩!第一次喝到Cava,也是第一次聽到Cava的我,總覺得這酒很妙,妙得難以言喻,聞起來有檸檬皮的香氣也是特色之一。使用67% Macabeo33% Parellada釀製,都是西班牙土產的葡萄品種。

品酒會很快地結束了,除了4號酒由d大大準備之外,其它都是由影印紙大大準備。經過他的講解,除了能品飲各種風味的氣泡酒消暑外,更學到了一套品飲的過程和評分方式,這是以前學不到的。

當然,我們是有會後會的,五個人的會後會也很特別,大家不妨猜猜這8支氣泡酒,那支酒是最快被喝光的?要特別說明,1號酒是half-bottle,其它7支酒都是regular bottle喔!