酒友K慶生會－趴吐（周二新年大亂鬥）......(2007.1.2)

跨年之後的第一喝，就是如此精采的酒，光是做夢都會笑了吧……

酒友K可能是跨年後心情大好，也可能是生日將近，更可能是上次慶生會喝得不夠盡興（？），這次藉著跨年後第一次周二一支會的機會，開了數支好酒。一到場就傻了眼，連Magnum都搬出來了……當天與會酒友不少，壽星K大伙都喝得非常盡興，絕對是值得一記的。有些問題不是在喝酒時想得到，尤其是一個很嚴重的問題，就等寫完後再問囉！

酒單和簡單的筆記如下：

Bodegas Alejandro Fernández Ribera del Duero Pesquerá Millennium Reserva 1996 (MG)
酒液呈深不透光的寶石紅色，邊緣泛紅色，液面晶亮。有著頗濃郁的巧克力、草梗、葡萄乾香氣，略帶一些大地系、煙燻、橡木、菸草葉香氣，香氣略感複雜度。入口時感覺有酸度，酒體頗重，單寧量適中且已釋出，可感覺到有澀度，一開始酸度頗高，口感有些粗糙，略醒酒後有變好些，口中以巧克力、草梗、橡木香氣為主。尾韻長度適中。非常有名的酒，而且又是Magnum，保存得好，喝得很開心。

Château Boyd-Catenac 2001
酒液呈深不透光的紫紅色，邊緣泛粉紅色、有層次感，液面晶亮。有著濃郁的巧克力、煙燻、黑醋栗、黑李子、黑莓果醬香氣，帶一些橡木香氣，頗討喜、新派的風格。入口時感覺有酸度，重度酒體，單寧量充足且感抓口，可感覺有澀度，強壯、討喜的新派風格，口中有著黑醋栗、煙燻、黑李子、黑莓果醬、巧克力、一些橡木香氣，非常年輕的酒。尾韻長度適中。標準美式高分酒，但少了那分細緻感，總覺得它少了Margaux的那分細緻感，是太年輕了嗎？

Clos des Papes Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2000
深寶石紅色的酒液，邊緣泛粉紅色，液面晶亮．有著頗濃郁的紅莓果、薄荷胡椒、青椒香氣，略帶一些燻烤和陳皮香氣，可感覺到有複雜度，仍有結構感，而且更方正些。入口時感覺到酸度，重度酒體，單寧量充足而感覺到有澀度，口感仍略帶甜美，口中有著紅莓果、薄荷胡椒、一些紅色漿果果醬型的香氣，已發展出獨有的結構感，很漂亮的酒。尾韻長度略長些。這支和跨年是同一支酒，跨年時只喝了1/3，所以又帶回來繼續喝，表現比剛開時更好哩！

Domaine Dujac Echézeaux 2001
酒液呈深寶石紅色，邊緣泛粉紅色，液面晶亮。有著頗濃郁的覆盆子、紅莓果香氣，略帶一些橡木、燻烤、樹皮、溼草地香氣，香氣略感複雜度。入口時感覺有酸度，酒體頗重，單寧量充足而感覺到有澀度，隱藏著強勁的風格，似乎需要被喚醒，口中有著紅莓果、覆盆子、一些香辛料、一些燻烤、一些胡椒香氣，頗奇妙的體驗。尾韻長度適中。全場唯一一支Burgundy紅酒，非常喜歡，是做得很棒的Dujac，讓我更想嘗試他們的Morey-St.-Denis特級園好酒啊！

Domaine Guy Amiot et Fils Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru "Les Demoiselles" 1996
酒液呈略淺的金黃色，邊緣泛黃，液面晶亮。有著頗濃郁的鳳梨、杏桃、柑橘、萊姆皮香氣，略帶一些礦石、氧化系、堅果、奶油香氣，香氣略感複雜度，頗有氣質的感覺。入口時感覺有酸度，酒體略重，均衡的口感帶著優雅的氣質，口中有著鳳梨、柑橘、杏桃、一些氧化系香氣，美妙。尾韻長度適中。好漂亮的白酒，這若是全場唯一的白酒，我會一直記得它……

Domaine du Pegaü Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Résérvé 1999
酒已經開瓶一天，剩半瓶。酒液呈深寶石紅色，邊緣泛粉紅色，液面晶亮。有著略濃郁的烏梅、黑莓果醬、草梗香氣，略帶一些花香和青椒香氣，香氣略感複雜度。入口時感覺有酸度，重度酒體，單寧量充足且已釋出，可感覺有澀度，口中有著烏梅、黑莓果、胡椒、一些太妃糖、一些花香調，應是已醒開的酒，做得漂亮。尾韻長度適中。醒開的「屁股」實在漂亮，香氣撲鼻，應是最好的時候吧！

Joseph Drouhin Batârd-Montrachet 1996
酒液呈淺金黃色，邊緣泛透明、有層次感，液面晶亮。有著頗濃郁的鳳梨、柑橘、礦石、奶油、萊姆皮香氣，略帶一些巧克力燻烤香氣（李先生常說的「碳燒咖啡」味），香氣可感複雜度，是隱藏著個性的好酒。入口時感覺到有酸度，酒體頗重，酸度一開始略有清脆感，似未成熟，口中有著鳳梨、礦石、一些奶油、一些焦糖、一些巧克力香氣，頗美妙的酒。尾韻長度略長些，頗能回味。後來還變化出奶油糖香氣，很美妙，而且非常喜歡，似乎還有繼續發展的潛力？

Poggio Antico Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 1997
酒已倒入decanter約一個半小時。酒液呈深寶石紅色，邊緣泛紅色，液面晶亮。有著頗濃郁的紅莓果、煙燻、橡木香氣，略帶一些薄荷、青草、大地系香氣，香氣略感複雜度。入口時感覺到有酸度，重度酒體，單寧量充足且已釋出，可感覺有澀度，口中有著紅莓果、一些大地系、一些薄荷香氣，有著強勁的風格，但也被時間馴化而略變得均衡了。尾韻長度適中。

Ciacci Piccolomini d'Aragona Rosso Toscana IGT "Ateo" 1999
酒液呈深寶石紅色，邊緣泛紅，液面晶亮。有著頗濃郁的黑醋栗、黑莓果、黑李子香氣，略帶一些燻烤、燒烤牛排香氣，香氣略感複雜度。入口時感覺有酸度，酒體頗重，單寧量充足而感覺到有澀度，略有酒精感，強勁且討喜，口中有著黑旦困黑李子、一些燻烤、一些胡椒香氣。尾韻長度適中。放在Riserva之後喝，感覺有些淡，要重新感覺才行了……

Bruno Paillard Brut Blanc de Blancs Champagne 1995
酒液呈略淺的金黃色，邊緣泛透明、有層次感，液面晶亮，氣泡細緻、均勻。有著略濃郁的酵母、礦石、鳳梨、清新水果香氣，略帶一些青草香氣，香氣略感複雜度。入口時感覺有酸度，酒體適中，清度有些高且清脆，口中有著酵母、礦石、鳳梨、一些小白花香、一些燻烤香氣，頗具細緻感。尾韻長度適中。細瘦的Blanc de Blancs口感，酸度高但能重新喚醒味蕾，頗佳。

Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Champagne Cuvée Palmes d'Or 1990
酒液呈略淺的金黃色，邊緣泛黃色，液面晶亮，氣泡細緻、均勻。有著略濃郁的鳳梨香氣，略帶一些杏桃、酵母、礦石香氣，略感複雜度。入口時感覺有酸度，酒體略重，似已成熟，口中有著奶油糖、鳳梨、礦石、一些酵母香氣，有粗獷感。尾韻長度適中。

嚴重的問題嗎？當然是……跨年之後的第一喝，就已經喝到這種程度了，這一年還能喝什麼？！這麼講是很欠打沒錯啦，不過心裡總是會這麼嘀咕著……對我來說，能挑戰的酒太多，所以諸如「這一年還能喝什麼」的問題，對我而言，都是小事，不過對某些大字輩的酒友來說，可能就……

後記：我的確要多努力才行，前幾天上網玩了這個BBR做的老遊戲，我只拿到80%（97/120），看著名人榜裡一堆滿分的人，就知道要做多少的努力了……

Bodegas Alejandro Fernández Ribera del Duero Pesquerá Millennium Reserva 1996
WS:95
This inky red is plush and mouth-filling, with an amazing concentration of plum, boysenberry, chocolate and licorice flavors over muscular yet graceful tannins. It's thoroughly modern in style, yet remains deeply rooted in its terroir. Best from 2003 through 2007. 2,500 cases made. (TM)

Château Boyd-Catenac 2001
WA:90
Perhaps the finest wine I have ever tasted from Boyd-Cantenac (time will tell if the 2003 is superior), this deep ruby/purple-colored 2001 exhibits sweet, seriously endowed flavors of licorice, black currants, earth, and spice box. Medium-bodied and elegant yet intensely flavorful, it reveals more depth, texture, and persistence than any of its predecessors. There is also some tannin to be shed. Bravo! Anticipated maturity: 2007-2017.
WS:90
Wonderful bright fruit character, with a hint of very good vanilla oak. Medium- to full-bodied, with an enticing freshness and excellent length. Serious stuff. Something is changing here. Best after 2008. 5,000 cases made. (JS)

Clos des Papes Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2000
WS:87
Very pretty, almost delicate, of medium body and medium concentration. The soft and supple tannins are sleek and easy to appreciate. It'll be hard to resist enjoying it on release, with its burst of red and black fruit on the succulent finish. Drink now through 2006. 8,915 cases made. (PM)

Domaine Dujac Echézeaux 2001
WA:88-91
The 2001 Echezeaux offers aromas reminiscent of spicy, peppery black cherries. On the palate, this light to medium-bodied wine is elegant, well-detailed, and fresh. It bursts on the attack, revealing lively blackberries and dark cherries. This refined, expressive effort also possesses a long, ripe finish. Drink it between 2005 and 2010.
BH:92
Utterly seductive black cherry fruit nose with abundant Vosne spice notes and big, rich, full, mouth coating flavors with a fine sense of minerality and super finishing intensity. This doesn’t have the density and sap of the Clos de la Roche but this is a very impressive wine in its own right and is every bit as powerful. 92/2009-16

Domaine Guy Amiot et Fils Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru "Les Demoiselles" 1996
WA:93
Intense richness could be discerned on Amiot's Puligny-Montrachet Les Demoiselles' tightly wound nose the day of my tasting (it was too muted to reveal specific aromas). Its full-bodied flavor profile explodes on the palate with awesome depth, power, elegance, minerals, flowers, pears, and stones. This wine's velvety-textured and perfectly-balanced character lingers on the palate for at least 30 seconds. Projected maturity: 2003-2010.
WS:95
Intriguing style. Very distinctive, displaying vivid toast and mineral aromas, yet fresh, packed with intense flavors of smoke, mineral, pear and citrus combined with a thick texture. It remains firm and lively right through the long, long finish. Impressive. Best from 2001 through 2008. 100 cases made. (PM)

Domaine du Pegaü Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Résérvé 1999
WA:92
A powerful, concentrated 1999 Chateauneuf du Papes was produced at Chateau Pegau. The dense ruby/purple-colored 1999 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Reservee boasts a powerful bouquet of pepper, garrigue, black fruits, and earth. Full-bodied and expansive, with sweet tannin giving it a more open-knit, accessible style than most young vintages of Pegau, this is a wine to drink while waiting for the 1998 and 1995 to become fully mature. Like all of this estate's red wines, it was bottled with neither fining nor filtration.
WS:93
Super-opulent. Full-bodied and thick, with rich, ripe fruit flavors that taste sweet mid-palate. Wonderful, supple, velvety finish. Delicious. Drink now through 2015. 6,250 cases made. (PM)

Joseph Drouhin Batârd-Montrachet 1996
WA:94
The Batard-Montrachet possesses fabulously intense anise and honeysuckle aromas as well as an expansive, full-bodied, and elegant character. Layers of minerals, white peaches, buttered toast, and sweet pears are found in this lively, highly focused, and superbly persistent wine. Anticipated maturity: 2003-2010. All of Drouhin's whites, with the sole exception of the Montrachet, were bottled between early September and the end of October, 1997.
WS:95
Elegant and sleek, full-bodied, with very ripe fruit, this is a balanced beauty, but don't expect a showy, big white. Instead, its subtle pear, lemon, orange, freshly cut grass, mineral and honey notes grow on you like a slow-burning fuse. The seductive, supple finish is smartly toasted just-so for ultimate balance. Classic Drouhin winemaking style. Drink now through 2010. (PM)

Poggio Antico Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 1997
WS:95
Fabulous aromas of exotic fruit, with violets, lavender and roses. Full-bodied, loads of ripe fruit, yet there's a fresh berry, black pepper and vanilla character. Long finish. This is concentrated and needs time. Best after 2005. 1,600 cases made. (JS)

Ciacci Piccolomini d'Aragona Rosso Toscana IGT "Ateo" 1999
WA:92
Mama Mia! The 1999 Ateo is a brilliant effort from this prodigious producer. It is a blend of 45% Sangiovese, 35% Merlot, and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. The wine possesses a deep, saturated garnet/plum color in addition to a pure, sweet bouquet of saddle leather aromas intertwined with black currants, licorice, tobacco, and plums. Elegant yet powerful, medium to full-bodied, with sweet tannin and enough acidity to provide definition, it can be enjoyed over the next 10-12 years.
WS:88
Attractive blackberry and cherry aromas, with a hint of tarragon. Medium-bodied, with fine tannins and a silky aftertaste. Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Best after 2002. 3,200 cases made. (JS)

Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Champagne Cuvée Palmes d'Or 1990
WA:95
A forward cuvee that will last for another decade. It's richness is exquisite. This will be a relatively long-lived, intense Champagne.
WS:87
A full-bodied Champagne that combines ripe fruit with a generous texture. Subtle vanilla and toast nuances linger on the finish. Drink now through 2001. 5,000 cases made.