2007年1月4日 星期四

滿舍的3P慶生會......(2006.12.29)

酒友K為慶祝他的xx歲生日,特在「滿舍」辦了慶生會。這次除了酒友K之外,還有H大的老婆、酒友K的朋友生日,一共三位壽星,故稱「3P慶生會」,絕對沒有腥羶色的成分存在……

酒友K一共搬出八支好酒,再加上H大贊助的兩支好酒,一共十款,十個人,喝得盡興囉!酒單和筆記如下:

Moët & Chandon Brut Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon 1996
酒液呈淺金黃色,邊緣泛透明、有層次感,液面晶亮,氣泡細緻、均勻、量多且持久(超過
20分鐘)。有著頗濃郁的烤吐司、礦石、酵母、餅乾、BBQ、鳳梨、柑橘、一些燻烤、一些奶油香氣,香氣可感覺到複雜度,狀況頗好。入口時感覺到有酸度,酒體略重,氣泡在口中頗均勻、細緻,有著頗清脆的酸口感,濃郁的香氣在口中散發,有著鳳梨、柑橘、酵母、礦石、烤吐司、BBQ、一些餅乾香氣,非常漂亮、很有結構的酒,似乎比上次喝到的還好些。尾韻長度略長些。只能說,這真是一支無懈可擊的Dom,太美妙的酒了!

Bollinger Extra Brut Champagne R.D. 1995
酒液呈淺金黃色(較
Dom略深些),邊緣泛透明、有層次感,液面晶亮,氣泡細緻、均勻、量多、頗持久。有著濃郁的礦石、烤吐司、酵母、BBQ、鳳梨香氣,略帶一些特殊的鐵鏽味,香氣可感複雜度,有層次感。入口時感覺到有酸度,酒體略重,氣泡在口中頗均勻、量多,清脆的酸度感覺很棒,有著酵母、烤吐司、鳳梨、柑橘、BBQ、一些燻烤、一些野味香氣,很有結構的香氣,似乎仍然太早喝了。尾韻長度略長些。

Prager Trocken Grüner Veltliner Wachau Weissenkirchen Achleiten 2004
酒液呈淺金黃色,邊緣泛透明、有層次感,液面晶亮。有著頗柔細的柑橘、清新水果、一些蜂蜜、一些礦石香氣,香氣略感複雜度。入口時感覺到有酸度,酒體適中,有著清爽的酸,口中有著一些蜂蜜、一些獸皮、一些青草、一些清新水果香氣,似可重新喚醒味蕾。尾韻長度適中。

Domaine Michel Colin-Délégér Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru "En Remilly" 1996
酒液呈略淺的金黃色,邊緣泛黃,液面晶亮。有著略感濃郁的奶油、糖漬鳳梨香氣,略帶一些礦石、燻烤、煙燻培根香氣,頗漂亮,香氣略感複雜度。入口時感覺到略有酸度,酒體略重,頗均衡但有粗獷風格,口中有著奶油、柑橘、一些燻烤香氣,是最好喝的時候吧!尾韻長度適中。

Domaine Étienne Sauzet Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru "Les Combettes" 1996
酒液呈略淺的金黃色,邊緣泛透明、有層次感,液面晶亮。有著略濃郁的胡桃、杏仁、鳳梨、礦石香氣,略帶一些煙火熏和大地系香氣,一絲花香飄於鼻中,很優雅的酒,略感其複雜度。入口時感覺到有酸度,酒體略重些,酸度有些清脆感,口中有著奶油、煙燻、鳳梨、洋梨、一些花香調,優雅又均衡的好酒。尾韻長度略長些,帶有一絲杏桃味。
En Remilly頗佳,但這支酒相形而下更加美麗,是有內涵的好酒。

Château Gruaud-Larose 1961
酒液呈磚紅色,邊緣泛棕色,液面明亮。有著略濃郁的大地系、烏梅、中藥草、一些薄荷、一些松露、一些菌菇香氣,香氣略感複雜度。入口時感覺到有酸度,酒體適中,單寧量適中且已釋出,感覺到有澀度,口感頗均衡、協調,口中有著菌菇、泥土和烏梅香氣。尾韻長度適中。老酒至此可稱不敗,現在喝實在不錯。

Domaine Leroy Corton Renardes 1995
酒液呈深寶石紅色,邊緣泛紅色、略帶粉紅,液面晶亮。有著略濃郁的大地系、覆盆子、紅色漿果果醬香氣,略帶一些玫瑰花、薄荷、草地、餅乾、巧克力香氣,香氣可感複雜度。入口時感覺到有酸度,酒體頗重,單寧量充足且已釋出,感覺到有澀度,口中有著大地系、覆盆子、花香調,非常美妙,又有堅實感。尾韻長度適中。融合上等桶味和漿果氣息,又充分反映地塊特色,果然是
Leroy的好酒。另這支酒未喝出Bio-dynamics的特有香氣,不知是否是有陳年之故?

Robert Mondavi Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 1996
酒液呈深不透光的紫紅色,邊緣泛粉紅色、略偏紫色,液面晶亮。有著濃郁的黑醋栗、加州李、黑莓果醬、橡木、一些大地系香氣,香氣略感複雜度,濃膩的感覺。入口時感覺到有酸度,重度酒體,單寧量而感覺到有澀度,口感有一絲苦,單寧口感略粗,口中有著黑醋栗、黑李子、橡木、一些乾藥草、一些大地系香氣。尾韻長度適中。

Opus One 1995
酒液呈深紫紅色,邊緣泛紅色,液面晶亮。有著濃郁的黑醋栗、黑莓果果醬、橡木香氣,略帶一些巧克力、燻烤、藥草、青草地香氣,香氣略感複雜度。入口時感覺到有酸度,重度酒體,單寧量充足而感覺到有澀度,強勁均維持著均衡、堅實的口感,口中有著黑醋栗、黑李子、燻烤、橡木、一些巧克力香氣,有些討喜風格,接續其後為強勁堅實的口感和香氣,美妙。尾韻長度適中。

Château Rieussec 1986
酒液呈略深的金黃色,邊緣泛黃,液面晶亮。有著濃郁的蜂蜜、柑橘、鳳梨、罐頭水果、糖漬水果香氣,略帶一些礦石、杏桃、杏仁、堅果、礦石香氣,
botrytis香氣頗明顯,香氣略感複雜度。入口時感覺到有酸度,重度酒體,頗濃美濃郁的口感,有著絕妙的平衡感,口中有著蜂蜜、鳳梨、罐頭水果、糖漬水果、一些杏桃香氣,濃郁複雜的口感,難以形容。尾韻長度略長(約持續15秒以上)。很美妙的口感,難道都得放上二十年,才能感覺到Sauternes的豐富變化嗎?

由郭滿蕙小姐開的「滿舍」,並未正式對外營業,需要訂位,也只供應套餐,座位很少,有些服務也需要自理,似乎不像是餐廳,反而比較像是廚藝工作室。郭小姐本就在此教授製作傳統法式料理,這次餐點也是她和兩位助手合力完成的。詳細的介紹可以參考她們的網頁

這次的菜單也是一時之選。「巴黎沙拉(Salade Parisienne)」用的是汆燙去皮的牛蕃茄,填滿海鮮為主題的沙拉,鮮蝦裝飾也可食,調味頗佳;「烤薰鴨胸肉鑲香菇(Champignons farcis au marget de canade fume)」陪襯的生菜清脆,本體則是細碎鴨胸肉和入豬肉和洋菇作餡,鑲在倒置的香菇上,烤好灑上麵包塊上桌,頗具創意又簡單的料理;「南瓜濃湯(Soupe au poitiron)」僅是一般,奶油有些重;「布列塔尼焗烤扇貝(Saint-jacques gratinees)」則是用大顆的扇貝,再填入調味馬鈴薯泥去焗烤,未特別強調奶味,所以焗不夠多,調味有些鹹。這次套餐的熱前菜還真多,可能是因為天氣冷的關係吧!

終於到了主菜。「勃艮地紅酒燴牛肉(Estouffade de boeuf bourguignonne)」是大塊的牛肉,和洋菇、紅蘿蔔燉煮後上桌,襯上香料飯,飯的口感頗佳,牛肉也有燉煮入味,不過調味還是重了些;AA不能吃牛,又是個自然豬;中場還是上了生菜沙拉讓大家味蕾回神囉!甜點「烤蘋果佐香草冰淇淋(Pommes Golden au gor, glace vanille)」烤蘋果部分頗好吃,充分掌握到口感,冰淇淋反而沒有適當提味,甜了。

整體來說菜都頗有水準,算是中規中矩的菜色,也少了進口食材墊價錢,但也有相當的水準;少了餐酒搭配,菜和酒僅稱不失,但是自己搭配也發現香檳的確很好搭菜,以當天菜色而言,Dom即可輕鬆從搭完前菜和渴品哩!個人覺得調味有些重,尤其是鹹,還好酒還算多,還夠自己努力喝;另外,菜裡面還是帶有淡淡的「台灣味」,怎麼說呢?吃到了蒜片、九層塔等香料,香氣都頗強勁,猜想是台灣貨才有這樣濃郁的香氣,但也影響了均衡感,可能是調味可以再補強的部分吧!

吃喝得非常開心,心滿意足,酒友K還準備了白木屋的雙層蛋糕請大家吃。有巧克力和什麼口味來著的……吃太飽,有一層的沒吃到……對了,也要向3P的主角,也就是三位壽星們說「生日快樂」囉!

Moët & Chandon Brut Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon 1996
WA:98
I have had a lot of great vintages of Dom Perignon, but I do not remember any as impressive as the 1996. Even richer than the brilliant 1990, the 1996 is still tightly wound, but reveals tremendous aromatic intensity, offering hints of bread dough, Wheat Thins, tropical fruits, and roasted hazelnuts. Medium to full-bodied, with crisp acidity buttressing the wines wealth of fruit and intensity, it comes across as extraordinarly zesty, well-delineated, and incredibly long on the palate. Moet-Chandon deserves considerable accolades for this prodigious example of Dom Perignon. Anticipated maturity: now-2020+.
WS:94
This features floral, candied citrus, pencil shaving and hazelnut aromas and flavors. It's fresh and focused, with a firm structure offset by a mouthfilling richness and a lacy texture. Not a blockbuster, but seamless and seductive in its approach. Drink now through 2010. (BS)

Bollinger Extra Brut Champagne R.D. 1995
WS:95
A dry, oxidative style, with whole-grain bread, ginger, roasted hazelnut and yeast notes lending complexity. Its structure comes into relief due to the dryness, but overall this is balanced and well-integrated, with a very long finish and an expansive aftertaste. Ideal with seafood and rich sauces or game birds. Drink now through 2020. (BS)

Domaine Michel Colin-Délégér Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru "En Remilly" 1996
WA:92
The impressive Chassagne-Montrachet en Remilly possesses fabulous licorice and butter cookie aromas and an expansive, rich, medium-to-full-bodied, and hyper-ripe but wonderfully balanced core of baked peaches, poached pears, and honeysuckle. This elegant yet powerful beauty should be at its best between now and 2004. 1996 was a spectacular year for Colin's wines. The bright, bracing, focus-providing acidity that characterizes the vintage married magnificently well with his trademark plump, ripe, rich, and concentrated wine style.
WS:84
Stands out for its buttery, butterscotch, caramel aromas and flavors. Full-bodied, lacks a bit of finesse. Milky, vanilla notes follow through on the finish. Drink now through 2003. (PM)

Domaine E'tienne Sauzet Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru "Les Combettes" 1996
WA:94
Produced from 45 year old vines and aged in 40% new oak barrels, the Puligny-Montrachet Les Combettes is a stunning wine. While less expressive aromatically than the Champs-Canet, it exhibits tantalizing floral scents. On the palate, this offering explodes with concentrated, lively, complex, and gorgeously-defined honeysuckle, candied almonds, roasted hazelnuts, pears, anise, and white flowers. Medium-to-full-bodied and velvety-textured, this bright yet fat wine beautifully combines Boudot's rich winemaking style with this vintage's bright acidity. Anticipated maturity: 2002-2007. Wow! This wine had been bottled one week prior to my visit, having spent 14 months on its lees.
WS:90
Prototypical '96 with good mineral notes, lush texture and lots of acidity for a vibrant finish. Impressive concentration and thick mid-palate bring out a velvety smoothness. The oak is overdone and strangely perfume, giving an odd floral character disappeared somewhat after the wine was aired for 12 hours. Don't touch for a long time. Best after 2007. 775 cases made. (PM)

Château Gruaud-Larose 1961
WA:96
Tasted 7 Times With Consistent Notes. The 1961 is among the greatest mature wines of Gruaud-Larose I have drunk. This powerful, rich, densely concentrated wine remains young, fresh, and vigorous, with a full decade of life ahead. It continues to exhibit a dark garnet color with some amber, a wonderfully fragrant quality (plus, minerals, tar, cedar, soy sauce, and licorice), a viscous texture, sensation depth of fruit, and a fabulous, albeit alcoholic finish. This is claret at its most decadent. Anticipated maturity: now-2015.
WS:90
Has this chateau's characteristic earthy style, seeming almost pungent on first whiff, but it also packs plenty of ripe, sweet-seeming fruit flavor. In very solid condition, full-bodied but well balanced, firm with tannins. Drink through 2005. --1961 Bordeaux horizontal.

Domaine Leroy Corton Renardes 1995
WA:93
Lalou Bize-Leroy told me she felt she had been particularly successful with her Corton Renardes (125 cases). I thought that it was the single greatest Corton I have ever tasted. Displaying a dark, almost black color and aromas of gamey wild berries, this stupendous wine explodes on the palate with powerful flavors of awesomely ripe cherries, sweet black fruits and animal notes all embedded in a thick, super-structured, velvety-texture. Intense and incredibly long, this wine should be cellared for 10 years before drinking it over the following decade. This note is the result of tastings I did in Burgundy between January 7 and January 29. The wine was tasted from cask, not bottle. Pinot Noir, a fragile varietal, reacts poorly to fining, filtration, and careless bottling techniques, I recommend caution when considering buying a red burgundy based on cask samples. I called it as I tasted it, and hope the bottled wine reflects the quality of the samples I was provided. I have included the cases production for the wine in order for readers to appreciate the rarity of Leroy's wines.
WS:90
A ripe, lovely, full-bodied '95, offering a soothing velvety texture, and good balance between the sweet tannins and lovely currant, blackberry, coffee and black cherry flavors. The finish is succulent and seductive. Try after 2000.

Robert Mondavi Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 1996
WA:92
The 1996 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve may be no better than the Oakville, but it is made in a slightly different style. The color is opaque purple, and the wine reveals more vanillin, a touch of mint, and plenty of black currant fruit in its moderately intense aromatics. Some of the vintage's dry tannin (from this year's stressed vineyard conditions) is present in the wine's finish. A more stylish, restrained, less exuberant example than the 1996 Oakville, it is an outstanding offering that should be consumed between 2002-2025.
WS:95(Highly Recommended)
Rich and complex yet restrained in style, with pretty coffee, currant, black cherry, spice and anise flavors that fan out nicely, this California Cabernet turns particularly elegant and polished on the long finish. Drink now through 2007. 15,000 cases made. (JL)

Opus One 1995
WS:95
A shade more elegant and refined than the '94, yet sharing the delicious range of flavors, with bright black cherry, plum and floral notes. Turns smooth and polished.--Opus One vertical. Best from 2003 through 2014. 30,000 cases made. (JL)

Château Rieussec 1986
WA:91
The 1986 is a complex and elegant wine, with plenty of smoky almonds, peaches, and honeyed apricot fruit in the nose and flavors. In the mouth, the wine has a certain elegance, and perhaps not quite the punch one normally expects from Rieussec. Nevertheless, it is a compelling Sauternes that should age magnificently. Anticipated maturity: 1994-2010. Last tasted, 1/93.
WS:89
Quite exotic and intense toasted coconut, honey and vanilla flavors, but the fruit seems buried by new oak character and it tastes a bit hot on the finish. Might improve with age.