2005年10月31日 星期一

TA副店長慶生會......(2005.10.29)

這場「表面上」要為酒友d慶生的慶生會,實際對象卻是TA天母店的副店長C小姐。最近副店長正逢喜事,總是洋溢著幸福美滿快樂又可愛的表情,真是羨煞眾人,準備結婚真好……「表面上」的慶生對象酒友d生日正巧和當天相差不遠,大家就一起提前慶生囉!

原本要讓C小姐有個驚喜,所以隱瞞她,只說要為酒友d慶生,沒想到慶生會還沒開始,就已經破局了……不過沒關係,慶祝最重要。四點大伙就慢慢抵達會場,並繳交入場費……喔,這是某種型式的一支糜爛會,所以入場費就是一支酒囉!

先到先喝,喝我的開胃酒,不過這酒的酒精度實在太強了一點:

Emilio Lustau Palo Cortado Jerez Peninsula Solera Reserva NV(小戶我提供)
酒液呈深茶色,有著濃郁的烏梅汁香氣,略感藥草味,酒精感頗重,入口略酸,尾韻甘口。這是支頗強勁的酒,酒已開了近四星期,仍有相當的水準,四個星期來香氣倒沒什麼改變就是。

朋友們陸續到齊,也開始繳交「門票」,所以我們就先排好酒序,畢竟我們不希望慶生會成為大亂鬥,而我自己的酒最早帶來,就先占一個decanter的位子吧!一開始喝的是壽星d君的氣泡酒,而且是前陣子d君從美國背回來,過鹹水來台灣的喔:

Argyle Brut Willamette Valley 1999(壽星d君提供)
酒液呈略淺的檸檬綠色,有些偏黃,氣泡細緻均勻,不過數量有些少。有著清新的酵母、礦石、蘇打粉、清新水果香氣,香氣感覺柔細。入口時感覺略有酸度,酒體適中,氣泡細緻但不持久,頗甘口。尾韻長度略短。氣泡不持久的原因可能是晃到,
d君說他是坐公車來的,公車就這麼搖呀晃的,氣泡酒也是會暈車的。另外,開瓶時洩氣聲很大,可能二氧化碳已跑掉大半吧。

接下來是壽星C小姐準備的白酒:

Les Heritiers du Comte Lafon Macôn-Bussières 'Le Monsard' 2002(壽星C小姐提供)
酒液呈淺金黃色,液面明亮。有著礦石、鳳梨香氣,香氣感覺頗清新。入口時酒體適中,略有酸度,口感有一些清新的變化。尾韻長度略短些。冰著喝感覺剛好,也可以再放一陣子。

晚餐有V公主帶來的清香沙茶火鍋和火鍋料,沙茶很好吃,還有肉片、餃類都很好吃,大家吃的很開心。影印紙大大的酒也冰得差不多了,一起開來喝囉:

Alban Vineyards Roussanne Central Coast 2000(影印紙大大提供)
酒液呈略深的金黃色,有些接近茶色,顏色很深,液面明亮。有著甘草香氣,香氣有些沉悶、簡單,有點
down了。入口口感頗甘口,酒體略強些,酸度有些不足。尾韻長度略短些。

沙茶的味道剛好,搭配火鍋料和嫩肉片,真是人間美味。慢食?好像沒看過吃火鍋有人慢食的,因為慢就吃不到了嘛!接下來就是V公主的酒了,知名酒莊哩:

J. F. Coche-Dury Auxey-Duresses 1996V公主提供)
酒液呈略淺的寶石紅色,液面明亮。有著紅莓果、薄荷和甘草香氣,香氣感覺有些細緻的變化。入口時感覺略有酸度,酒體略感薄弱,不過有細緻感,單寧略感充足而略感澀度,目前正是適飲的酒。尾韻長度適中,有甘口感。
Coche-Dury的酒果然不凡,這支僅是一般村莊級的酒,卻有這樣的水準,實在不簡單。

此時大家已經吃得差不多了,Cherry則是帶來好吃又大顆的干貝,原本大伙提議
丟到火鍋裡煮,不過實在覺得浪費而作罷,所以我們另外準備小爐子,生火烤干貝來吃。我把火生好,再由
Cherry烤這些大顆的干貝,干貝烤好再加點鹽提味,滋味實在美妙,如果有個海鹽或鹽花來提味的話,應該就更好了……哇,越想越奢侈了……

等我把火生好、Cherry把干貝烤好後,大家好像已經喝很多酒了,不過也不用趕進度,慢慢喝就好了。再來是Château Haut-Bailly的二軍酒,年份很好:

La Parde de Haut-Bailly 2000S小姐提供)
酒液呈頗深的寶石紅色,液面晶亮,酒液顏色頗深。有著黑色果實香氣,李子、黑嘉麗香氣明顯,略有些燻烤香氣,有甜美感,且能感受到不錯的變化。入口時有酸度,酒體略強些,單寧充足,有些甜熟的口感,頗均衡。尾韻長度適中。這支二軍釀得不錯,年份好應是原因之一吧!

B大律師和綠左大大大應是講好的,兩個人都開義大利酒,都是1996 Barolo,可以做水平品飲了。我的杯子不夠,所以還是一支一支試:

E. Pira & Figli Barolo Cannubi 1996b大律師提供)
酒液顏色頗深,不過細節已不復記憶。有著黑色果實、木材、燻烤香氣,香氣感覺濃郁、集中,且能感受到它的變化,有複雜度。入口時感覺有酸度,單寧極充足而感到有澀度,酒體強勁,口感濃厚,略有甜美的變化,單寧幾乎包住了舌苔,但又有著細緻的感受。尾韻長度略長些。這支酒值得一試,現在就很好喝,而且很有陳年潛力,是無庸置疑的好酒!另外,這支酒的酒瓶居然有類似撞到的痕跡,好妙~

Marcarini Barolo 'la Serra' 1996(綠左大大大提供)
酒液顏色頗深,不過細節已不復記憶。有著黑色果實、木材、燻烤香氣,香氣比前支更感濃郁、奔放,也有相當的變化,有複雜度,不過後來就顯得有些封閉。入口時感覺有酸度,單寧極充足而感到有澀度,酒體強勁,口感濃厚,略有甜美的變化,單寧比上支酒略粗些,不過仍有強勁厚實的骨架。尾韻長度略長些。這支酒值得一試,陳年實力十足,也是一支好酒。

再來就是我的酒了,下午集合之前,我自己已經在想要開什麼酒了,C小姐說她想喝1995 Brodeaux右岸,還指名想喝Canon-la-Geffelière,可惜那支酒我還不能開,就換另一支來開。這支酒我先喝了一小口,然後decant半瓶,另外半瓶繼續留在瓶子裡。輪到我喝的時候,酒已躺在decanter近三個小時,一開瓶時我自己就先嘗過,實在非常期待它的變化啊:

Château Troplong-Mondot 1995(小戶我提供)
酒液呈頗深的寶石紅色,邊緣略偏紫,液面晶亮。有著豐富的黑嘉麗、李子、燻烤、木材、藥草香氣,略帶一些土地芳香,莓果香氣明顯,香氣感覺濃郁又兼具細緻感,有複雜度。入口時感覺有酸度,酒體強勁有力,單寧極多且已逐漸釋出而感覺有澀度,口感頗均衡,搭配莓果為主的香氣,能感覺到口感結實又兼具圓厚、甜美,很有結構的好酒。尾韻長度略長些,帶有莓果香甜味和甘口感。這支酒現在才開始適飲,但有更長的陳年空間,個人感覺這是支被酒評家們小看的酒,應有更高的水準才是。

這支酒從頭到尾撐完全場,沒有衰老感,沒有突然變酸,沒有口感下降,香氣持續很久、變化豐富、餘韻長,要不是慶生會結束得太早,這支酒我又喝得太晚,我還真想帶一杯酒回家,再放它一天,好好體會它的變化……

慶生會的高潮,就是切蛋糕、唱生日快樂歌了!大家幫兩位壽星各準備一個蛋糕,而且蛋糕上還有兩位壽星的名字哩!唱歌、許願、吃蛋糕,少不了的是已經冰好、正好可以搭配蛋糕的德國白酒:

Gutsverwaltung von Schubert-Maximin Grünhaus Maximin Grünhäuser Herrenberg Riesling Auslese 1988(酒友吳先生提供)
酒液呈略淺的金黃色,液面明亮。有著美妙的礦石、鳳梨罐頭、汽油香氣,變化豐富,有些變化已不復記憶,能知道的是支有複雜度的酒。入口略有酸度,酒體適中,口感略甜,有些罐頭水果和礦石、青草香氣,美妙、細緻,有結構感。尾韻長度略長些。

最後再由Cherry貢獻知名酒莊的村莊級紅酒,作為最後的結束囉:

Jayer-Gilles Nuits-St.-Georges 'Les Hauts Poirets' 1997Cherry提供)
酒液呈寶石紅色,略有透明感,液面明亮。有著曼妙的覆盆子、草莓香氣,香氣感覺頗甜美,略帶一些燻烤香氣,略感複雜度。入口時感覺略有酸度,酒體適中,略有澀度,單寧已逐漸釋出,應是最適飲的時候,口感有些甜美,不過隱隱可感覺到有強勁的骨架。尾韻長度適中。

慶生會接近尾聲,我自己的酒還有不少沒喝完,只能心痛地一飲而盡,好酒居然最後是這麼喝掉的,還想好好觀察它的變化說……嗚嗚,雖然我還有一瓶,不過心裡想講的是:十年後再開吧,哈~!btw,十年後可能會有很多酒可以喝,或是有些酒已經進入適飲期,比如什麼私生子啊、什麼拉肚子啊,嗯嗯嗯……希望年年有今日,年年都有好酒喝囉!

Emilio Lustau Palo Cortado Jerez Peninsula Solera Reserva NV
WS:80
A bone-dry sherry with walnut, raisin and tobacco notes. It's focused and rather lean, with some alcoholic heat on the finish.

Alban Vineyards Roussanne Central Coast 2000
WA:90-92
The barrel-fermented 2000 Roussanne is put through full malolactic with a bit of batonnage. It exhibits wonderful tension between its honeysuckle, thick, juicy fruit, and crisp, citrusy acids. The wine is full-bodied, dense, and chewy, with plenty of up-side potential. If it behaves like a French Roussanne, look for it to drink splendidly well for 2-3 years after bottling, close down, and then re-emerge a decade later.
WS:88
Deep yellow-gold color, with rich, spicy, floral, fig, honey and apricot flavors that are intense and concentrated, finishing with a long, rich aftertaste. Drink now through 2005. 300 cases made. (JL)

E. Pira & Figli Barolo Cannubi 1996
WA:95
A compelling Barolo, as well as a classic example of the more traditional school of winemaking, this 1996 Barolo Cannubi exhibits an unimpressive medium ruby color. However, that is followed by an explosive nose of cherry jam infused with smoke, rose water, tobacco, and spice. With an amazing texture, evidenced by fabulous concentration of fruit, full body, a boatload of glycerin, and moderately high tannin, this huge, complex, profound Barolo can be drunk now, but promises to age effortlessly for two decades.

Marcarini Barolo 'la Serra' 1996
WA:90
The first thing that came to mind when I smelled the 1996 Barolo La Serra was brandy-macerated cherries. The wine’s medium ruby color is deceptive in view of its concentration. This showy 1996 Barolo offers abundant quantities of sweet black cherry fruit intermixed with high octane, concentrated, spice box characteristics, medium to full body, fine opulence, and a long, lush, powerful finish that undoubtedly conceals more tannin than exhibited. It should drink well for 10-15 years.
WS:91
Full-bodied and mouthpuckering, with intense berry and strawberry aromas and flavors and hints of rhubarb. A bit lean on the finish. Give it time to come out. A wine for connoisseurs. Best after 2004. 1,020 cases made. (JS)

Château Troplong-Mondot 1995
WA:92
Closed but immensely promising, this dark purple-colored wine exhibits a reticent but intriguing nose of underbrush, jammy black fruits, minerals, and vanillin. Deep, rich, and medium to full-bodied, with outstanding extract and purity, the wine possesses a seamless personality with sweeter, more integrated tannin than in the 1996. This is a vin de garde to cellar for another 7-8 years. It is not far off the splendid level of quality achieved in both 1989 and 1990. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2020. I am a huge fan of this property run by Christine Valette, and have been an avid purchaser of many of her wines, particularly the 1988, 1989, and 1990. I tasted all three of these vintages in a mini-vertical in January, 1998, and they were sensationally good.
WS:92
Clever winemaking. Modern and international in style. Not quite as exciting as I remember, but still outstanding. Inky-colored, with loads of vanilla, spice and meatlike aromas. Full-bodied and concentrated, with masses of berry, dark chocolate and vanilla flavors. Slightly astringent on the finish. (JS)

Gutsverwaltung von Schubert-Maximin Grünhaus Maximin Grünhäuser Herrenberg Riesling Auslese 1988 (AP 153)
WS:95

Jayer-Gilles Nuits-St.-Georges 'Les Hauts Poirets' 1997
WS:87
Game and cassis mingle beautifully in this exotic wine, but don't expect much intensity, just a caress of soft tannins, red berry flavors and sufficient acidity. Drink now through 2003. 15 cases made. (PM)