2005年9月13日 星期二

意外的驚喜......(2005.09.08)

萬惡的預購再遇上萬惡的大亞,綁架了我的酒,我的錢,就這麼到了西方極「惡」世界……昨天去TA,原本只想去付贖款,結果意外地在這一天喝到許多新酒。酒都很年輕,小小的記錄一下:

Domaine Paul Pernot Puligny-Montrachet 2001
淺金黃色的酒液,略偏綠,液面晶亮,very young。有著青蘋果、熱帶水果(鳳梨、香蕉)香氣,略帶一些堅果、烤吐司香氣,香氣略感輕靈細緻,不過略有酒精味,略感到複雜度。入口時感覺酸度明顯,酒體適中,有著豐富的熱帶水果香氣,以果香為主,略帶一絲烘焙和堅果氣息,不過略有一絲苦味。尾韻長度適中。

Domaine Méo-Camuzet Vosne-Romanée 1er cru Les Chaumées 2001
酒液呈頗深的寶石紅色,液面明亮,very young。有著豐富的紅莓果、草莓、覆盆子、櫻桃、薄荷、草地、燻烤香氣,香氣略感濃郁,搖晃後更感到濃郁的香氣,頗具複雜度。入口時感覺有酸度,單寧充足且已逐漸釋出,有澀度,酒體略強,有著強勁、圓厚、堅實的口感,有結構和複雜度變化。尾韻長度略長些,帶有甘草和紅莓果系香甜味。這支酒是支好酒,後來還不時變化出紫羅蘭、烤肉香氣,略帶一些藥草香氣,變化豐富多端,且值得玩味。

Château Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 2002
酒液呈頗深的紫紅色,中央深不透光,邊緣明亮,very young。有著濃郁的黑醋栗、李子、黑莓、燻烤、礦石、木材香氣,香氣頗濃郁,不過有些無法融合的感覺,搖晃後香氣更明顯。入口時感覺酒體強勁、有酸度和澀度,單寧充足,香氣濃郁,有著Pauillac的強烈個性,不過又有些柔軟的感覺,仍有無法融合各層次的感覺(有著不均衡的Petit Verdot香氣),現在並不適飲。尾韻長度適中。我想這酒真是開得太早,似乎沒有它該有的水準。

Château Haut-Brion 2001
酒先開瓶decant約一個半小時。酒液呈頗的紫紅色,略偏紅,中央深不透光,邊緣明亮,very young。有著濃郁的黑莓果、李子、瀝青、燒烤、藥草、木材香氣,略帶一些巧克力香氣,香氣感覺濃郁多變,頗具複雜度,搖晃後香氣感覺更好。入口時感覺酒體強勁,有酸度和澀度,單寧很充足且已釋出,有均衡感和結構,相當好的複雜度,有著豐富的黑莓果、李子、燒烤、木材香氣,明顯感覺到濃郁的香氣和豐富的變化。尾韻長度略長些。下次醒酒的時間可以再短一些,應該會有更好的水準。

感謝洪先生和賴先生的好酒,並感謝TA天母店S小姐提供的照片。


Domaine Méo-Camuzet Vosne-Romanée 1er cru Les Chaumées 2001
WA:87-88
The bright, medium to dark ruby-colored 2001 Vosne-Romanee Les Chaumes has a spicy, black cherry-scented nose. This feminine, light to medium-bodied effort has floral black cherry flavors and a well-balanced, persistent character. It should be consumed by 2008. According to Jean-Nicolas Meo, this estate's director and winemaker, '2001 is a good vintage, more strict and severe than 1999 and 2000, with more acidity and bite, less fat, and more austere. It has good cellaring potential because the balance of the wines is excellent.’Meo's 2001s were particularly successful, with fleshy, fruit-filled personalities. For the most part, the firm, rustic tannin found in many of his colleagues' 2001s (the majority of which are not recommended) was not detected in any of his offerings. That may be because Meo waited longer to harvest (as he states), extracted more delicately, or because he's one of the few Burgundians to stir the lees of his reds (which builds flesh)... or a combination of the three.
WS:95(Collectibles)
Gorgeous, supple and packed with fruit; dark-colored and thick-textured, with lively aromas and succulent flavors. It mingles faded roses, cassis, wild strawberries and raspberries and a bit of wet earth. Long, succulent, balanced finish. Drink now through 2012. 575 cases made. (PM)


Château Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 2002
WA:92-94
A tannic, super-concentrated effort from Pichon-Lalande, this is a blend of 51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 34% Merlot, 9% Cabernet Franc, and 6% Petit Verdot, from yields of only 33 hectoliters per hectare (45 hectoliters in 2000). It possesses a saturated purple color in addition to a firm but promising bouquet of figs, black currant liqueur, licorice, lavender, and background smoky oak. Tannic, classically structured, exceptionally pure and layered as well as tremendously persistent and long in the mouth, this will not be a wine to drink in its youth. Medium-bodied, it will require 7-8 years of cellaring, and should last for 20-25. It is a very impressive, but structured effort from this famous estate.
WS:92-94
The nose on this is gorgeous. I like just smelling it. Cassis, with minerals and hints of ripe blackberries. Full-bodied, with plenty of fine tannins and a long, fresh finish. Very beautiful indeed. Very elegant. Showing a lot of the Cabernet Franc character. Score range: 92-94 (JS)


Château Haut-Brion 2001
WA:94
Haut-Brion's 2001, which was bottled late (the end of September, 2003), possesses an unmistakable nobility as well as a burgeoning complexity. Plum/purple to the rim, this blend of 52% Merlot, 36% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 12% Cabernet Franc is playing it close to the vest, having closed down considerably after bottling. Nevertheless, it reveals pure notes of sweet and sour cherries, black currants, licorice, smoke, and crushed stones. Medium-bodied with excellent purity, firm tannin, and an angular, structured finish, it requires 5-7 years of cellaring. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2020+.
WS:95(Collectibles)
Intense aromas of violets, berries and spices follow through to a full-bodied palate, with layers of supersilky tannins and a long, long finish. Very classic in style. All in elegance and length. I like it better than the 2000. Best after 2009. (JS)


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