2005年9月20日 星期二

Alsace白酒品酒會暨中秋烤肉會後會......(2005.09.17)

這次在紙漿工廠舉辦的Alsace白酒品酒會,酒款都是來自Alsace(廢話),共有七支酒,涵蓋Alsace主要的葡萄品種:RieslingGewürztraminerPinot GrisMuscat,而且其中還有一支是SGN喔~這對沒喝過SGN的我來說,實在是太有吸引力了……

因為SGNblind tasting裡太容易被辨認出來,且容量比較小(375mL),所以將那支酒單獨抽出來不瞎喝,其它六支酒就理所當然的套上黑布套,瞎喝囉~在喝的時候,只知道有六款酒,後來才知道越來越多的資訊,有一支年份比較久,其它都是年輕的酒;瞎喝的六支酒裡,有一支Pinot Gris、兩支Gewürztraminer、一支Riesling、一支Muscat、一支是「雜種」酒(也就是很多種葡萄混合而成的)。

先記下自己的筆記如下:


  1. 酒液呈檸檬黃色至金黃色,液面明亮。有蜂蜜香氣,略帶一點花香、汽油、青草、藥草、鳳梨香氣,香氣略感到有些濃郁,不過有酒精的嗆鼻感。入口時感覺有酸度,酒精仍感嗆鼻,酒體適中,而且帶有苦味(可能是保存問題),香氣感覺頗嗆,且感覺不甚均衡。尾韻帶苦,長度適中。我猜不到這支是什麼酒,不過我應該沒有喝過。

  2. 酒液呈金黃色,顏色頗深,液面明亮。有著蜂蜜、藥草、鳳梨(糖漬水果味),略帶一些花香、草地香氣,香氣感覺集中、濃郁,略有複雜度。入口時感覺略有酸度,酒體適中,有著明顯的茶、蜂蜜、藥草香氣,不甚甜。尾韻長度適中。這支酒非常特別,就顏色來看,滿有可能是那支老酒。

  3. 酒液呈檸檬黃色,顏色感覺有些淺,液面明亮。有著明顯的動物性香氣,有帶一點藥草香氣,香氣感覺沉悶,略帶一些清涼水果和礦石香氣。入口時感覺略有酸度,酒體適中略輕些,有些苦味,以清涼水果、藥草香氣為主。尾韻長度適中,略帶苦味。以香氣判斷,我猜這支是Muscat

  4. 酒液呈檸檬黃色,液面明亮。有著明顯的荔枝、藥草、青草香氣,略帶一點花香和哈密瓜香氣,香氣略感濃郁些,略有複雜度。入口時感覺略有酸度,酒體適中,略帶一些苦味,在口中有明顯的荔枝、青草和花香感覺。尾韻長度適中。這支酒可以算是最好猜的酒,很多人都猜它是Gewürztraminer

  5. 酒液呈金黃色,不過顏色略淺些,液面明亮。有著燻烤、糖漬罐頭水果、荔枝、哈蜜瓜、礦石香氣,香氣感覺適中。入口時感覺略有酸度,酒體適中,略有甜美的感覺,以蜂蜜、礦石香氣為主,略帶一些茶香,不錯。尾韻長度適中。若以香氣判斷,這支應該是那個「雜種」酒,不過酒液顏色又不像(他們說老酒是「雜種」酒),所以不敢猜下去。

  6. 酒液呈檸檬黃色,略帶一點金黃色,液面明亮。有著清涼水果、礦石香氣,略帶一些礦石香氣,香氣感覺清新。入口時感覺略有酸度,酒體適中,不甜口,帶有礦石和藥草香氣,略帶一點茶葉香氣。尾韻長度適中。我猜有一半的機會是Riesling,至少不是MuscatGewürztraminer,但我沒喝過Pinot Gris,說不定也有可能是,所以我也不敢猜下去。

答案揭曉,有些答案真的跌破大家的眼鏡啊,我只能說,酒界真是浩瀚無邊,在品酒的時候還是不要太鐵齒比較好……


  1. Hugel & Fils Pinot Gris 'Tradition "Hugel"' 2000

  2. Domaine Zind Humbrecht Gewürztraminer Herrenweg de Turckheim 2002

  3. Domaine Weinbach Muscat Reserve "Clos des Capucins" 2003

  4. Bernard Schwach Gewürztraminer Domaine du Moulin de Dusenbach Réserve 2002

  5. Domaine Marccel Deiss Schoenenbourg GC 1997

  6. Domaine Weinbach Riesling Schlossburg GC "Clos des Capucins" 2003

我自己猜對3號和4號酒的葡萄品種,5號和6號酒至少都還有沾到邊。2號是Gewürztraminer,居然會有頗濃的茶香,而且又不是老酒,酒液顏色居然那麼深,實在出人意料。1號酒是敗在自己從沒喝過Pinot Gris的酒,實在不了解它的特性,事先也沒有好好做過功課。還有3號酒的酒精度居然高達15.5%耶,大家也都沒有喝出來……

2號和4號是同品種、同年份,不同的Domaine釀製,2號的顏色深,香氣風格比較甜美,而4號酒則容易被辨認出它的葡萄品種。它們是相同的葡萄品種,但有著截然不同的風格,不同的Domaine也是決定葡萄酒的變數之一。另外Alsace還有一些葡萄品種沒有品飲到,如SylvanerPinot Blanc等,以後有機會的話可以嘗試看看。

最後要品嘗的白酒是Sélection de Grains NoblesSGN),是支甜白酒:

Domaine Zind Humbrecht Pinot Gris Turckheim Sélection de Grains Nobles "Clos Jelsal" 2000
酒液呈金黃色,顏色有些深,液面明亮。有著豐富濃郁的蜂蜜、糖漬罐頭水果(鳳梨)香氣,略帶一些青草、礦石香氣,香氣感覺集中、濃郁,不過略有一些細緻的變化,搖晃後香氣仍維持著。入口時感覺有酸度,口感頗甜,酒體厚重,帶有蜂蜜、糖漬水果香氣。尾韻長度略長些,糖漬水果味明顯。

耶~我終於喝到SGN了,好甜美的SGN,香氣表現實在很妙,香氣濃郁仍帶有變化,讓人更期待陳年後的變化,更期待陳年後帶來的豐富口感。

之前在Travel & Living旅遊生活頻道的Floyd's Uncorked(中文翻譯是「大廚遊酒鄉」)節目裡,有這麼一句話:「接下來要進行沉重的品酒工作。」品酒的時候真的是聚精會神地喝、分析、猜測、檢討,這樣才會學的快、學得多,所以,它很沉重。不過在今天,這些都過去了……因為,中秋節到了,我們要烤肉啊~

烤肉地點就在紙漿工廠頂樓的庭院,抬頭還可以看得到皎潔的明月,除了烤肉,酒友a君也準備多項食材,有牛排、羊肋、貝殼麵等,有這麼豐盛的晚餐,當然也要有「慢食」的精神……呃,不過大家都餓了,慢就吃不到東西了……

a君先上了涼拌的貝殼麵,還有影印紙大大烤好的熱狗,讓大家墊墊胃,再來是影印紙大大準備的沙拉,再來還有烤杏鮑菇、烤奶油扇貝、烤羊肋(先用迷迭香醃過)、炒豬肉、烤牛排,最後是白味噌湯作為完美的句點。食材真的很棒,烤杏鮑菇和羊肋都是很嫩很好吃;牛排也是一絕,灑上一些鹽花,更有提味的效果;白味噌湯不油不膩,正好作為那美麗的句點。

烤肉會當然少不了酒,會後會的酒也算很精采:

1.Domaine Vincent Girardin Savigny-les-Beaune "Les Vermots Dessus" 2003
酒液呈檸檬黃色,略偏金黃色,液面晶亮。帶有燻烤、BBQ、鳳梨、蘋果香氣,略帶一些藥草、青草草地香氣,香氣略感複雜度,搖晃後香氣仍維持著。入口時感覺有酸度,酒體適中,帶有明顯的餅乾、烤吐司、鳳梨、洋梨香氣,結構不錯。尾韻長度略短。桶味其實滿重的,不過真的是討喜的風格。

2.Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 1er cru Clavoillon 1999
酒液呈檸檬黃色,略偏金黃色,液面明亮。有著鳳梨、煙燻、藥草香氣,略帶一點礦石香氣,香氣略有細緻感,且略感到有複雜度。入口時感覺有酸度,酒體適中,不過略有輕靈的變化,有著不錯的煙燻、熱帶水果香氣,略帶一點香料香氣,香氣頗具結構,是不錯的酒。尾韻長度適中。

3. M. Chapoutier Côtes du Roussillon-Village Domaine de Bila-Haut Latour Occultum Lapidem 2003
酒液呈極深的紫紅色,顏色很深,中央深不透光。有著豐富濃郁的李子、黑莓果、黑醋栗香氣,有著甜熟的莓果香氣,不過較無法感覺到複雜度,搖晃後香氣仍維持著。入口時感覺有酸度,單寧充足而有澀度,酒體強勁,莓果類香氣和李子、梅子香氣為主,口感略感水果甜味。尾韻長度適中略短些。

4.ViNa San Pedro Cabernet Sauvignon Castillo de Molina Reserva 2001
酒液呈深紫紅色,顏色頗深,中央深不透光。有著濃郁且明顯的黑醋栗、煙燻香氣,略帶一點李子、木材香氣,搖晃後香氣更明顯。入口時感覺有酸度,單寧充足而有澀度,酒體強勁,以黑醋栗的香氣為主,口感上略有莓果的甜味。尾韻長度短。

首先的兩支白酒,搭配的都是較清爽的前菜,還有烤杏鮑菇和烤扇貝,吃起來很輕鬆,而且也有不錯的口感。最後兩支紅酒口味實在厚重,在喝完Bourgogne白酒後再接著喝,著實有些招架不住的感覺,不過當時搭的正是腥味重的羊肋和甜美的碳烤牛排,這樣的搭配就很不錯了,只是羊肋和牛排都沒有什麼濃重的調味,其實對那兩支紅酒還是有些招架不住。

我自己則把沒喝完的SGN冰起來,留到飯後再來喝,放在杯裡近五個小時,仍有不錯的香氣、複雜度和口感,這也是始料未及的,這支酒應該可以支撐更久,而且極具陳年實力。

會後烤肉會還有許多同樂或爆笑的回憶,還有緣左大大大的冷笑話表現,就留給我們自己,算是最美的回憶囉~!另外,若有遺漏的部分,請大家在留言板留言,我會很快修改的。


Hugel & Fils Pinot Gris 'Tradition "Hugel"' 2000

WA:87-88

Loads of smoky white fruits can be discerned in the nose of the 2000 Pinot Gris 'Hugel' Tradition. This medium-bodied, smoked apple, lemon, and mineral-flavored wine tastes almost as though it were a cross of Pinot Gris and Riesling. It is highly delineated, pure, and delicious. Drink it over the next 5 years.

WS:86

Fresh and focused. Grilled nuts, baked apple and a hint of citrus match a medium-bodied profile and moderate concentration. A beam of acidity supports the whole. Drink now. (BS)


Domaine Zind Humbrecht Gewürztraminer Herrenweg de Turckheim 2002

WS:93

Exotic, this is full of dried tropical fruit and citrus, with an undercurrent of mineral. Full-bodied and dense, yet stays light on its feet courtesy of the vibrant structure, a hallmark of the vintage. Lingering passion fruit aftertaste. Drink now through 2012. 1,310 cases made. (BS)


Domaine Zind Humbrecht Pinot Gris Turckheim Sélection de Grains Nobles "Clos Jelsal" 2000

WA:98

Produced from 14 hectoliter per hectare yields, the 2000 Pinot Gris Clos Jebsal Selection de Grains Nobles sports 147 grams of residual sugar per liter. Candied orange rinds, yellow plums, apricots and peaches are interspersed with smoke in the nose of this jammy, syrupy wine. A massive, hugely concentrated effort is crammed with spices, pepper, and a myriad of super-ripe yellow fruits. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2040. In response to requests from consumers for more information as to the character of his non-Vendange Tardive or Selection de Grains Nobles wines. Olivier Humbrecht has devoloped an 'indice' scale which appears on the label of each bottle. This indice ranks from 1 to 5 the perceptible sweetness of the wines, and Humbrecht describes it as follows: '1 is totally dry; 2 is not technically dry but the sweetness is not apparent on the palate; 3 is medium sweetness that may gradually disappear with aging; 4 is sweet wine; 5 is for high sweetness, a Vendange Tardive in richness but without botrytis.' Humbrecht is to be commended for instituting this system as it will immensely aid consumers.

WS:96(Highly Recommend)

A concentrated sweet white exuding honey, caramel, apricot and orange peel aromas and flavors that orbit around a core of bright acidity. Seamless in texture and structure, with a caressing finish. Drink now through 2015. 130 cases made. (BS)


Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 1er cru Clavoillon 1999

WA:87-89

Hints of marzipan and white flowers can be found in the aromas of the 1999 Puligny-Montrachet Clavoillon. Medium-bodied, pretty, and nicely detailed, it offers good, plump, apple flavors intermingled with nuts in its lush character. Drink it over the next 6 years.


M. Chapoutier Côtes du Roussillon-Village Domaine de Bila-Haut Latour Occultum Lapidem 2003

WA:94

The fabulous, full-bodied, unctuously-textured 2003 Cotes du Roussillon-Villages Bila Haut Occultum Lapidem (cropped at 6-7 hectoliters per hectare) offers pure kirsch liqueur aromas. With decent acidity and a layered, heady, peppery, moderately tannic finish, it should age well for 10-15 years. As I have said so many times over the last 15 years, the top Chapoutier wines are meant for very long term drinking, and are not designed for immediate gratification. Everything Chapoutier is doing, from his bio-dynamically farmed vineyard to tiny yields, extended fermentations, indigenous yeasts, and no fining or filtration, is done to produce the essence of a vineyard and a vintage. His track record since 1989 and 1990 admirably proves that these are indeed remarkable wines made by a young genius who refuses to compromise. Michel Chapoutier has been misunderstood by some of his peers, and there is a lot of jealousy when someone this young is so incredibly talented, but it is an irrefutable fact that these are wines of singular greatness as well as longevity.


ViNa San Pedro Cabernet Sauvignon Castillo de Molina Reserva 2001

WS:86(BestValues)

Has a firm layer of toast and chocolate, but with enough currant and black cherry fruit underneath for balance. Good focus on the finish too. Never really fans out, but solid. Drink now through 2004. 80,000 cases made. (JM)