2006年9月27日 星期三

吃吃喝喝的周二一支慶生會......(2006.09.26)

我的生日會又到囉!這回和周二一支會合併舉辦,地點選在大亞天母店,成員不同,喝的酒也不一樣囉!繼上次認真會後會的慶生之後,這次既然是慶生會,當然也是非常「Milan」的一夜……當然,沒那麼浪漫,沒喝到醺,怎麼回得去呢?

先吃過飯之後,開始喝酒囉!首先是Evan的香檳,上次帶的1983 Chianti Classico,讓大伙經驗值快速提升,這次的香檳應該是好物了,在台灣似乎不好找,我只知道台北的La Petite Cuisine自己有進口而已:
Jacquesson Extra Brut Champagne "Signature" 1995

酒液呈金黃色,邊緣泛黃,偏帶透明層次感,液面晶亮,氣泡細緻均勻。有著略濃郁的奶油、酵母、鳳梨、一些柑橘、一些礦石香氣,初段較多
Chardonnay香氣,有複雜度,頗能玩味。入口時感覺有酸度,酸度感覺頗尖銳,酒體頗重,有著酵母、鳳梨、一些蘋果酸的感覺,酸度似乎難以馴化,還是太早開了?尾韻長度略長些。這支香檳使用55% Pinot Noir45% Chardonnay混合,後段開始出現Pinot Noir的煙燻、BBQ香氣,整合地不錯,不過表現不夠持久,香氣下降頗快。

接著是eRic提供的白酒。酒莊莊主是Burgundy極有名的釀酒師,除了在Domaine Leflaive釀酒之外,自己也兼做生意,事業還不小:
Domaine Pierre Morey Meursault "Les Tessons" 1999

酒液呈金黃色,邊緣泛透明,液面晶亮,頗年輕的感覺。有著頗濃郁的奶油、礦石、燻烤、鳳梨、罐頭水果、一些木桶香氣,另帶一絲焦糖香,桶味和果香整合地很好,略感複雜度。入口時感覺有酸度,酒體頗重,有著奶油、鳳梨、礦石、一些木桶香氣,濃郁開放的個性,又潛藏深度,做得很好。尾韻長度略長些。明顯的
Meursault個性,桶子用得很漂亮,頗喜歡。

沒多久,碎大拎著酒來了,不過我已經先「偷跑」,倒了趙先生帶來的酒。加州知名酒廠的旗艦酒,不用多作介紹:
Chateau Montelena Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Estate 2003

酒液呈深不透光的紫紅色,近似黑色,邊緣泛粉紅色,液面晶亮。有著濃郁的煙燻、黑醋栗、藥草、李子果醬香氣,略帶一些鵝莓、胡椒、花香調,略感複雜度,是濃郁的新世界風格。入口時感覺有酸度,重度酒體,單寧量充足而感覺有澀度,有著煙燻、黑醋栗、奶油、李子果醬香氣,口感帶甜,濃郁厚重的新世界酒。尾韻長度略長。這支酒在
decanter躺了好一陣子才喝,後段還有一些紫羅蘭花香,是做得很漂亮的酒,現在喝頗早。

我邊喝,碎碎也一邊拿了鋁箔紙,把他帶來的酒包起來,讓我們瞎喝,後來倒入杯中,才能確定是一支紅酒。深寶石紅色的酒液,邊緣帶磚紅色。有著烏梅、樹葉、一些紅莓果、一些煙燻香氣,香氣強度適中,幾無複雜度。入口時感覺略有酸度,酒體適中,單寧量適中且已釋出,感覺到略有澀度,有著李子、樹葉、一些覆盆子、一些燻烤香氣,很均衡的口感,不過似乎不會更好。尾韻長度略短。

一開始根本猜不出品種、產地,CabShirazGrenache香氣亂竄,感覺混合多種葡萄品種,卻抓不到它的風格,更增加猜酒難度,有人猜Bordeaux右岸,也有人猜Cabernet FrancLoire、甚至連Burgundy這種「自暴自棄」的答案都出來了,我大概能只能猜到,這支酒我根本沒喝過(但我沒喝過的酒多到不行),若用消去法的話,這不是法國酒,也不是義大利、西班牙,更不是自己熟知的新世界。答案嗎?Château Musar 1996,極有名的黎巴嫩酒莊,葡萄種在黎巴嫩南部、前陣子很紅的Bekaa Valley,再用卡車載到酒莊釀酒。

瞎喝酒實在太嚴肅、太正經了,不符合我們「Milan」的精神,所以,還是回來輕鬆地喝酒(兼喝酒標)吧!再來是Vincent帶來「叫化杏鮑」:
Domaine Saint Benoit Châteauneuf-du-Pape "La Truffière" 1999

酒液呈深寶石紅色,邊緣邊紅色,液面晶亮。有著頗濃郁的薄荷、胡椒、李子、覆盆子、一些草地香氣,仍有一些酒精感,略感複雜度,香氣感覺似已成熟。入口時感覺有酸度,酒體頗重,單寧量充足而感覺到有澀度,以薄荷、胡椒、李子香氣為主,略感均衡,做得很不錯。尾韻長度適中。感覺這支酒單喝很不錯,但夾在前後兩支
Cab-based的酒中間,還是顯得單薄了些。

我自己的酒則先開瓶,自己倒了一杯後,把剩下的酒decant。印象裡喝過兩個年份,做的都不怎麼好,這次果然大開眼界:
Château Lynch-Bages 1996

酒液呈深不透光的寶石紅色,有些接近紫紅色,邊緣泛紅色,液面晶亮。有著頗濃郁的黑醋栗、李子、黑莓果、煙燻、杉木、一些鉛筆芯香氣,還有隱隱的青草、香水花香調,是有複雜度的好酒。入口時感覺有酸度,單寧量多、充足,且感到抓口,感覺有澀度,有著黑醋栗、黑莓果、杉木、煙燻、一些土地(新鮮泥土)香氣,強勁堅實的
Pauillac風格在此展現。尾韻長度略長。

後來自己還是慢慢地喝著這支酒,從decanter裡倒約醒一個小時的酒,香氣更加濃郁、奔放,偶爾會竄出巧克力、燻烤、花香,口感勁強,結構很棒,非常可口、討喜,也很適合繼續陳年,現在喝還是嫌早了。這似乎才是Lynch-Bages會成名的水準,也才知道,原來五級酒莊也可以做得如此精采。

後來葉醫師也到了,做了炸雞翅和炸雞腿請大家吃(壽星我有多吃一個啦),也貢獻了一支好酒,沒想到……之前在那酒前面晃來晃去,這回居然真的喝到了:
Domaine Bonneau du Martray Corton 1999

酒液呈深寶石紅色,邊緣泛粉紅色,液面晶亮。有著頗濃郁的大地系、覆盆子、青草、樹葉、一些藥草、一些燻烤香氣,有複雜度的酒,香氣有著優雅漂亮的感覺。入口時感覺有酸度,酒體頗重,單寧量充足而感覺有澀度,有著大地、覆盆子、青草香氣,果味主導,隱有一些酒精感,是很有結構的酒,而且似乎太早喝了。尾韻長度適中。

再來是李先生貢獻的兩支新年份好酒,基本上都是「生」的,但是啃「生」酒才符合這種慶生會的精神。巧的是,這兩支酒皆為日本Suntory集團擁有的酒莊,自己正好可以做個小比較囉!酒名和筆記如下:

Château Lagrange 2003
酒液呈深不透光的紫紅色,邊緣泛粉紅色,有層次感,液面晶亮。有著頗濃郁的可可、咖啡、焦糖、餅乾、杉木、燻烤、黑醋栗香氣,略感複雜度,桶系香氣很明顯,有一種酒還在「培養中」的感覺。入口時感覺有酸度,重度酒體,單寧量充足,感覺有澀度,單寧很抓口,口感強勁,不若
Saint-Julien常有的均衡口感,有著可可、黑醋栗、餅乾、煙燻、一些焦糖香氣。尾韻長度適中。這支酒真的太生了,不過表現很好,還需要多點時間融合其香氣,會有更好的表現。

Château Beychevelle 2003
酒液呈深不透光的紫紅色,邊緣泛粉紅色,液面晶亮。有著略濃郁的咖啡、黑醋栗、煙燻、黑莓果香氣,略感複雜度,明顯不若
Lagrange精采。入口時感覺到有酸度,酒體頗重,單寧量充足而感覺有澀度,單寧感覺抓口,有著可可、黑醋栗、煙燻香氣,不過口感似有一些空洞,不若Lagrange結實。尾韻長度適中。這支酒口感較Lagrange均衡些,較有產地風格,但實力仍是Lagrange略勝一籌。

葉醫師仍意猶未盡地開了一支香檳助興,是今年喝過數次的香檳,每次喝,都有一點感覺它的進步:
A.R. Lenoble Brut Champagne Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru 1996

酒液呈略淺的金黃色,邊緣透明,液面晶亮,氣泡均勻、細緻。有著略濃郁的奶油、礦石、酵母、鳳梨香氣,略帶一些洋梨香氣,略感複雜度。入口時感覺到有酸度,酒體略強,口感已漸趨平衡,口中有著奶油、礦石、酵母、鳳梨、熱帶水果香氣,做得很好。尾韻長度適中。清脆酸度支撐著口感,但仍有豐富的香氣變化,這次喝到的感覺很漂亮,似乎真的穩定了,而且也較熟成了。

接著,AA拿出了從日本帶回來的蛋糕請大家吃,並搭配他要開的甜白酒。在此之前,我先貢獻一支德國白酒,讓大家漱漱口吧!不會太甜,正好:
Weingut Joh. Jos. Christoffel Erben Riesling Spätlese Ürziger Würzgarten 2004

酒液呈略偏檸檬綠色的黃色,邊緣透明,有層次感,液面晶亮。有著礦石、洋梨、鳳梨香氣,很清新的香氣感覺,強度適中,略感複雜度。入口時感覺到有酸度,酒體略重,口感有一些甜,但酸度拉得很好,有結構感,口中有著水蜜桃、礦石、鳳梨、一些青草香氣,頗均衡。尾韻長度適中。頗喜歡這支酒,果味做得漂亮、細緻,風格清柔,實在不俗。

邊吃著蛋糕,居然還吃到糖粒,這可能在暗示我:準備喝更甜的甜白酒囉!AA這次準備的也是新年份的甜白酒,2003Sauternes大好年份,應該也有很高的水準:
Château d'Arche 2003

酒液呈金黃色,邊緣泛黃,有層次感,液面晶亮。有著濃郁的C桃、堅果、鳳梨、蜂蜜、一些礦石香氣,香氣可感覺複雜度,
botrytis特殊的酯類、堅果香氣很明顯。入口時感覺到略有酸度,重度酒體,有著杏桃、罐頭鳳梨、蜂蜜、堅果香氣,有著厚實的口感。尾韻長度略長些,以蜂蜜、鳳梨果味為主。果然是強勁、濃郁、堅實厚重的Sauternes甜白酒,似乎要等很久很久,才能感受到更多層次的變化吧!

慶生會以甜白酒,畫下完美的句點,感謝EJ夫婦、eRicVincent、碎、AA、趙先生、葉醫師、李先生的好酒,也謝謝天母店的CE,還有中途落跑跑車的k大俠。最後,再祝自己生日快樂囉!

Jacquesson Extra Brut Champagne "Signature" 1995
WS:93
Assertive, powerful aromas of grain, ginger and grilled nut segue into tobacco and fig in this dry, mouth-coating Champagne. Has muscle, with an integrated backbone of acidity. Terrific length, with a tobacco and nut aftertaste. Drink now through 2012. 645 cases made. (BS)

Domaine Pierre Morey Meursault "Les Tessons" 1999
BH:87-90
Altogether finer and better balanced than the villages with excellent minerality present on both the nose and the palate. Quite elegant for Tessons with solid buffering acidity for the rich, concentrated flavors. This is both stylish and long. (87-90)/2006-8

Château Lynch-Bages 1996
WA:94
The 1996 Lynch Bages has turned out to be considerably better than my early spring barrel tasting report suggested. Tasted on three separate occasions in November, it had fleshed out significantly, exhibiting more depth than in my initial tasting reports. The wine is low in acidity, but it possesses an opaque black/purple color, as well as extraordinary sweet, full-bodied, cassis fruit aromas intermixed with cedar, fruitcake, and licorice scents that soared from the glass at each tasting. With superlative structure, a boatload of ripe tannin, massive body, and dazzling intensity and power, this may be the greatest Lynch Bages produced since the 1989 and 1990. Anticipated maturity: 2001-2025.
WS:92
Deep, dark ruby with intense aromas of mint, berries and currants. Full-bodied, with velvety tannins and a delicious ripe fruit and lead-pencil aftertaste. Very fine indeed. Typically outstanding for Lynch-Bages. Best after 2005. 35,000 cases made. (JS)
T:90
Good ruby-red. Ripe aromas of currant, tobacco, leather, smoke and game. Sweetly penetrating currant and cherry flavors in the mouth; rich and nicely balanced, with a silky texture. Opening nicely. Tannins are substantial but ripe.

Domaine Bonneau du Martray Corton 1999
WA:87-89
Jean-Charles de la Moriniere says that, in 1999, all the fruits in the region ripened exceptionally early. Moreover, his cherished orchard had ripe pears in August rather than September, their normal harvest date. He harvested his Corton on the 15th of September at 13.5% natural potential alcohol with yields under 30 hectoliters per hectare. The 1999 Corton has demure blackberry and plum aromas. Medium-bodied and filled with brambleberry, white pepper, mineral, metal, and blackberry flavors, this is a firm effort with a flavorful, and long finish. It is fresh, zesty, and loaded with structured yet ripe tannin. Projected maturity: 2005-2012.
WS:90
Superb focus, with a beam of clean fruit. Very sweet and ripe, rich and thick. Full-bodied, it shows real grip and lots of wonderful black fruit. The tannins are chewy but well-integrated. Seductive finish. Drink now through 2006. 400 cases made. (PM)

Château Lagrange 2003
WA:91
Dense purple in color and surprisingly open-knit and velvety textured, the full-bodied, fleshy, succulently styled 2003 Lagrange is more accessible than most Northern Medocs. With low acidity, silky tannin, and loads of chocolaty black currant and cherry fruit as well as nicely integrated, toasty oak, this sensual wine should drink beautifully in 2-3 years and last for 15-18.
WS:92
Aromas of blackberry and currant with just a hint of black licorice follow through to a full-bodied palate, with fine tannins and subtle ripe fruit, giving licorice and mineral undertones. Complex and refined. Very well done. Best after 2011. 24,165 cases made. (JS)

A.R. Lenoble Brut Champagne Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru 1996
WS:95(Highly Recommend)
This is intense, concentrated and refined. Peach, honeysuckle, toast and mineral aromas and flavors meld beautifully with the vibrant structure and texture. The harmony of all the elements and intensity of flavors make this Champagne a standout. Drink now through 2015. 3000 cases made. (BS)

Weingut Joh. Jos. Christoffel Erben Riesling Spätlese Ürziger Würzgarten 2004
WA:93
The wine actually labeled as 2004 Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Spatlese, harvested in early November, adds elements of green tea and shriveled berry character to the basic Wurzgarten aromatic themes of fresh kiwi and strawberry. On the palate, this represents the next level up in richness of texture and honeyed ripeness of fruit, yet also of fresh and frisky lime citricity and saline minerality. The finish offers a concentration of fruit and mineral that approaches bitterness.
WS:91