2006年12月20日 星期三

奢華的八千會@Tutto Bello......(2006.12.16)

所謂的「八千會」,其實就是一個吃吃喝喝的餐酒會,但是過得比較奢侈……首先要慶幸自己和眾酒友們,吃過這餐、喝光這票好酒後,沒被天打雷劈,我會多做善事的……

這一年在喝認真會的春酒時,就已開始討論所謂的「八千會」了,一個月前正式敲定後,便分頭準備訂餐廳和敲酒單。餐當然不能亂吃,由主辦人AA大透過Y醫師的關係,請Tutto Bello的老闆梅先生安排了一整套精采的套餐,是我們獨有的菜色,「特權飯」是一定要吃的;酒也不能馬虎,由每位參加者提供一支下限為8000元的好酒一支(這種價位基本上沒有爛酒的),而且經過安排後,許多產區的龍頭都現身了,如Bordeaux老五大、BurgundyMSauternes之王等,非常精采,精采到差點睡不著覺……

終於等到這一天,拎著滿手的Riedel Sommelier眾酒杯出發,並且準時開始。首先由H大提供的香檳開頭,我也拿出了Vintage Champagne杯:
Taittinger Brut Champagne Artist Collection 'Imai' Millésime 1988

酒液呈略淺的金黃色,氣泡細緻、均勻、略持久,邊緣泛透明,有層次感,液面晶亮。有著略濃郁的杏桃、酵母、餅乾、麵包(麵包屑)、一些蘋果、一些鳳梨、一些礦石香氣,香氣略感複雜度,有著細緻清瘦的風格。入口時感覺到有酸度,酒體適中,有細瘦感,氣泡細緻、均勻,口中有著杏桃、酵母、餅乾香氣,實在難以形容。尾韻長度略短些。我最後還留下兩口酒,放成了靜態酒,酒體異常地強勁有力,略有甜美感,不若有氣泡時的清瘦,這樣的轉變,更有頂級白酒的架勢!

暖場時間喝香檳,侍者也送上麵包,搭配的是Tutto Bello特調鮪魚醬和蕃茄Salsa,焗烤的麵包抹上鮪魚醬非常好吃,白麵包當然是放上厚厚的、用新鮮蕃茄做成的Salsa囉!這兩樣東西真的是好的開始,而且又很搭香檳,果然開胃了。我吃了兩份,好好吃……(唔唔,還在吃……)

接著準備上前菜了。上菜前先斟好酒,讓大家可以做做筆記,這時候大伙常是一陣靜默,大概都是認真會後遺症吧!這個白酒大有來頭,Burgundy兩個最有的M之一,由趙大哥提供的好酒:
Louis Jadot Montrachet 1999

酒液呈略淺的金黃色,邊緣泛透明、略偏色,有層次感,液面晶亮。有著頗濃郁的鳳梨、礦石、青草、奶油糖(白脫糖)香氣,略帶一些蜂蜜、白花香、杏桃、煙燻、麵包香氣,香氣可感覺有複雜度,豐富多變化實在讓人滿足。入口時感覺到有酸度,酒體頗重,有些強勁感但能維持極好的平衡,架構非常棒,口中有著鳳梨、餅乾、礦石、一些蜂蜜香氣,實在美妙。尾韻長度略長些。這樣的香氣一直持續到最後,似乎找不到何時下降,應是非常長命的酒,且若用上收口的白酒杯,可能沒有如此精采的表現,如此複雜的酒得用大杯肚的
Riedel Sommelier Montrachet酒杯,似乎才能把它的特點完全抒展吧!

這個「摸哈洩」實在太漂亮了,就用它來搭配前菜「什錦開胃集(Antipasto Misto)」吧!由數樣前菜集合而成,都是大約一口至兩口的量,有綜合沙拉葉、乾煎金頭歐扁魚(Pan-fried Fillet of Gilt-head Bream)、漬朝鮮薊、香煎鴨肝搭細蔥佐酒醋無花果醬汁(Seared Duck Fetago with Shallot Sauce)、煙燻鵪鶉腿、生無花果、等,放置在白色方盤裡,方盤就像畫布般,小樣的前菜就是它的顏色,繪出美食的樣貌。據梅先生口述,這些方盤都是近日購入,看來我們是搶先用到了。魚佐奶油醬汁、煎肝、燻鵪鶉腿都能引出Montrachet不同面向的風味,是非常成功的餐酒搭配,阿布的肝真是一絕。若真要雞蛋裡挑骨頭,就是我的肝裡有一條筋而已。

接著就要上麵了,在上麵之前,先喝酒吧!未開瓶前,我們猜想這些酒都會很「長命」,為了提早享受,並且發現更多的變化,我們先把酒開瓶,讓我們先行倒入杯中,讓這些酒在杯中充分呼吸。這些酒來頭都不小,有Burgundy兩個最有的M之一,由聖E大提供;西班牙有名的Cult wine之一,價錢可算是西班酒前幾高的,由dio大從美國背回來;另一支是Bordeaux五大之一,是以細緻高雅著稱的酒莊,由小弟提供。喝吧!酒名和筆記如下:

Domaine Jacques-Frédéric Muginer Musigny 2001
酒液呈深寶石紅色,邊緣泛粉紅色,液面晶亮。有著略濃郁的紅醋栗、紅莓果、覆盆子、玫瑰花香氣,略帶一些皮革、大地系(新鮮泥土)、橡木、燻烤香氣,一開始有有些封閉感,後來才漸抒展,能感覺到其複雜度。入口時可感覺到有酸度,酒體適中,單寧量適中且已釋出,可感覺到有澀度,口感很均衡,以果味香為主,一些細緻的燻烤和花香點綴其間,不曾間斷,口中有著紅莓果、覆盆子、花香、橡木、一些煙燻、一些大地系香氣,是細緻又美妙的頂級好酒。尾韻長度適中。

2001
年對Chambolle-Musigny村是個困難的年份,這酒隱約可感覺到人力雕硺的痕跡,又能維持酒莊特有的花香和鮮泥土香氣特質,果然是頂尖的好酒,使用Riedel Sommelier Burgundy Grand Cru大酒杯,更能呼吸變化,有更細緻的底層變化被感受到了。

Pingus 1998
酒液呈深不透光的紫紅色,邊緣泛粉紅色,液面晶亮。有著略濃郁的紙板、泥土、紅莓果、黑李子、草梗香氣,略帶一些花香調,略感複雜度,似乎封閉了,尚未開展。入口時感覺到有酸度,酒體略強,單寧量充足而感覺到有澀度,此時先感覺到酒的均衡和結構感,不過酒體有些單薄,猜想是沒有醒開,略有酒精感,口中有著紅莓果、泥土、紙板、草地香氣。尾韻長度適中。
我把它倒入
Riedel Sommelier Hermitage酒杯,不過一開始倒得太多了,酒質頗沉悶、細瘦,dio還說一開始比Burgundy還像Burgundy,我則是感覺到「錢」味啊!後來才逐漸醒開,有些濃郁的果醬、燻烤、草梗、樹皮香氣,酒體口感也加重,變得更加強勁均衡。產自Ribera del Duero DO,使用100% Tempranillo,能釀出這樣的酒,難怪價錢居高不下了。

Château Margaux 1979
酒液呈深寶石紅色,邊緣仍泛粉紅色,液面晶亮,異常年輕的酒色讓自己驚訝。一開始即有著頗濃郁的大地系、落葉、森林底層、松露、草地、泥土香氣,略帶一些雪松、杉木、黑李、梅子香氣,所有的香氣元素都美妙地融合著,已達顛峰,能感覺到香氣的複雜度。入口時感覺到有酸度,酒體頗重,單寧量充足且仍感些許抓口,可感覺到有澀度,單寧口感如鵝絨般細緻綿長,又能感覺兼具高雅的氣質,非常均衡且長壽的酒,口中有著一些黑李子、一些烏梅、一些黑醋栗、落葉、大地系、青草地、烘乾藥草、一些醬油香氣,奇妙地在口中變化著。尾韻長度略長些。
不間斷地變化著雪松、黑李、烏梅、青草地、一些細緻的燻烤香氣,單寧仍平鋪在舌上,如此的高雅細緻,又能一再回味,像是在舌上蓋起了神殿。使用
Riedel Sommelier Bordeaux Grand Cru的大酒杯,沒有封閉的香氣感受,後段香氣仍維持其強度和變化,異常的長命,似乎等不到它下降的時候,這可能就是Bordeaux老酒的魅力吧!

這時候H大拿了白酒去冰,原本作為香檳放槍時的替代酒(不過香檳好得很吶),不過酒主人也不想帶回去了,一起開來喝,用白酒搭配蟹肉麵囉!「新鮮蟹背肉蕃茄茸拌細扁麵(Linguine Con Granchio E Pomodoro)」先上桌,是煮到彈牙的口感,還有新鮮蕃茄和蟹肉絲混入麵裡,奶香調味,實在好吃。白酒還沒冰好,我搭配的仍是Montrachet,奶香和Montrachet細緻又豐富的桶味很搭配,很好的搭配。唯一的小缺點,是我有吃到一片很小的殼,但至少知道蟹肉是手工拆出來的。

白酒冰好了,先喝吧!白酒來得有點晚,我只剩一口麵了……這支白酒和蟹肉麵也頗搭,只是Montrachet更強啊:
Domaine Chapoutier Ermitage Blanc "De L'Oree" 1991

酒液呈略淺的金黃色,邊緣泛黃色,有層次感,液面晶亮。有著略濃郁的草梗(尤其像曬乾的稻草)、鳳梨、柑橘、一些氧化系、一些花香調,香氣略感複雜度。入口時感覺到有酸度,酒體頗重,略有酒精感,有一些苦,口中有著鳳梨、草梗、一些氧化系、一些杏桃香氣,桶味和鳳梨、柑橘皮香氣香氣混合著,頗美妙。尾韻長度略短些。一樣是很精采的酒,而且還有漂亮、且為
Roussanne獨有的香氣表現,圓厚的口感也充分反應南方較炎熱的氣候。不過這回是敗到家了,由Chapoutier的網站得知它是使用100%平均樹齡6070歲的老Marsanne,一點Roussanne都沒有啊!

紅酒仍然充分的發展中,外面傳來的是生日快樂歌,聽梅先生說當天有一團35人的聚會,我們上菜的速度也就有些慢了,但無妨,慢食是必須的,腳步放得慢~慢~的~,才能感受到更多呢!熱前菜「松露洋芋和牛牛尾脆卷(Sfoglie di Brick Con Coda di Bue E Patate Croccanti alla Crema di Tartufo Nero)」上桌前,已經飄著松露的香氣,薄如紙張的麵製卷皮,包著細碎牛尾、牛肉、馬鈴薯泥混合的內餡,再加上黑松露調製的醬汁,是奢侈的體驗,好吃。牛尾和松露是非常搭配Burgundy紅酒的,尤其是老酒,這回我搭的是Musigny 2001,也是成功的搭配。

等待的時間,當然是聊天囉!梅先生怕我們等太久,再端出「松露薯條」招待大家,這……大家又靜默了,不過雙手都伸出去抓薯條了,哈~!上次的松露薯條搭配義大利Brunello,這回搭Burgundy也是一樣的美味啊!非常棒,搶得很滿足……

主菜「爐烤特級肋眼牛排佐烤紅蔥紅酒醬汁(Bistecca al Brunello E Scalogni Arrosti)」上場囉!應是極厚的肋眼牛排經高溫爐烤後,再切片、淋上紅蔥熬煮的醬汁後上桌,配菜是手工義式餃。肉汁仍然被鎖在牛排肉裡,上面一層厚厚的、炒過的紅蔥,又是我喜歡的五分熟牛排,實在好吃。這道菜牛來搭配PingusMargaux,各有千秋,紅蔥的特殊香氣和Pingus的草地、泥土香氣契合,爐烤牛排和Margaux又能互相搭配,都是成功的搭配。還有,這次主菜沒出槍了,非常滿足、開心啊~

休息一下,逐漸進入尾聲了。主辦人說「這種餐酒會的甜白酒一定要d'Yquem」,所以我們就喝到d'Yquem了!因為這是小瓶的甜白酒,所以主辦人又準備了一瓶高分的Porto請大家喝,這些酒不管是酒質、酒精度,都是狠角色,要小心一點了。酒名和筆記如下:

Château d'Yquem 1997 (HB)
酒液呈略深些的金黃色,邊緣泛黃、略透明,有層次感,液面晶亮。有著濃郁到不行的蜂蜜、榛果、糖漬罐頭鳳梨、糖漬李子、柑橘皮香氣,略帶一些花香調,香氣可感覺有複雜度,濃厚的果香和蜂蜜香氣綿延不絕,果然有王者風範。入口時感覺到有酸度,重度酒體,重甜的口感,但有更強的酸度拉長、並適當去除甜膩感,非常強壯、均衡的架構,有著蜂蜜、榛果、罐頭水果(鳳梨、荔枝)、柑橘、糖漬李子、花香、一些礦石、一些餅乾香氣,無庸置疑是非常複雜的好酒。尾韻長度很長,約能持續近
40秒的蜂蜜、榛果、鳳梨香氣,華麗的感覺。Riedel Sommelier Sauternes酒杯似乎更能突顯各香氣的變化、和其交互融合的感覺,果然是非常美妙的體驗。

Taylor's Porto Vintage 2000
酒液呈深不透光的寶石紅色,邊緣泛紅色,有層次感,液面晶亮。有著頗濃郁的氧化系、泥土、糖化李子、黑莓果醬香氣,
Porto的香氣實在難以形容,略感複雜度。入口時感覺到有酸度,重度酒體,單寧量充足而感覺到有澀度,中甜度也有適當的酸度支撐著,很有結構又兼具均衡感,口中有著杏仁油、氧化系、黑色水果罐頭香氣,難以形容。尾韻長度略長些。這支酒以黑色果實的果醬香氣為主,似乎仍太年輕,但絕對是支非常長命的酒。

甜點「四式甜點盤(Sinfonia di Dolci)」上桌,共有四樣甜點:榛果冰淇淋佐白松露奶醬汁、水果蛋糕糖漬柿肉、Chocolate Fondant,皆各有特色。冰淇淋搭配的是白松露由和煉乳做成的醬汁,清靈的松露香氣有畫龍點睛之效,冰淇淋口感綿細,搭甜酒非常美妙,可能倒一點甜酒會更好吃(更奢侈吧);水果蛋糕口感扎實,頗搭甜酒;糖漬杮子上覆薄荷葉,似乎應是先吃的甜點,柿子多肉甜美,搭甜酒很棒;Chocolate Fondant切開就有純度頗高的巧克力汩汩流出,而且流很多,實在是大手筆,過足了癮了,巧克力搭Porto是一絕,可稱是完美的搭配。甜點吃得非常滿意,而且和甜酒的搭配都無懈可擊!

我點了Espresso作為餐會的結尾,這頓奢華的餐酒會也落幕了。眾人開始起鬨下次要辦四千會、二八會,甚至連去澳門吃Robuchon喝春酒的主意都出來了。聊得盡興,喝得開心,吃得滿意,一切就是這樣的完美,又多一段讓自己能好好回味的回憶……

Taittinger Brut Champagne Artist Collection 'Imai' Millésime 1988
WA:94
WS:88
Solid, well-made, elaborately packaged Champagne with great balance, crisp texture and lively citrus fruit flavors. A bit of doughy complexity comes out on the finish. Drinkable now.

Louis Jadot Montrachet 1999
WA:93-95
Harvested at 13.6% natural potential alcohol, the 1999 Montrachet has a magnificent spice cake, almond paste, and hazelnut-laden nose. Medium to full-bodied and suggestive of drinking liquid velvet, this is a big, deep, broad, and well-focused wine. Pears, apples, stones, and a myriad of spices can be found throughout its highly expressive and flavorful character. It is a huge success for the vintage, and an exceptional wine in its own right. It should stand the test of time. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2014.
BH:92-95
Softly perfumed, highly nuanced aromas of honeysuckle, ripe peach and mango followed by big, rich, concentrated flavors of limestone, citrus and lightly charred oak. There seems to be an inexhaustible reserve of deep, rich, sappy flavors that offer both power and precision and a fine, subtle finishing note of minerality. This is not the most powerful Montrachet Jadot has ever made but I very much like the style here as there is both elegance and finesse yet plenty of flavor authority. Relatively approachable for young Montrachet but I suspect this will live for a very long time, given the solid core of sap and spicy fruit. (92-95)/2012+

Domaine Jacques-Frédéric Muginer Musigny 2001
WA:91-93
Mint, violets, and blackberries can be discerned in the nose of the ruby-colored 2001 Musigny. It explodes on the palate, basting it with jammy strawberries, candied cherries, and hints of licorice. Medium-bodied, exhibiting outstanding clarity of fruit, as well as an exceptionally long finish, this is a seductive, well-structured wine. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2012.
BH:93
Aromatically reserved, even brooding though with coaxing reveals remarkably complex aromas of a simply incredible panoply of black fruits, earth, spice, crushed herbs and notes of red and black cherries. The understated, powerful, very concentrated, perfectly harmonious flavors are astonishingly rich yet finely detailed, culminating in a stupendously long finish that offers intense minerality. If this adds a touch of weight and richness as it finishes its élevage, it may very well rival the stupendous 1998. This possesses that rare “wow” factor! 93/2009-21

Pingus 1998
WA:90
The 1998 Pingus exhibits chocolate, espresso, and leather characteristics as well as an expansive mid-palate, a dense, opaque ruby/purple color, medium to full body, moderate tannin, and gorgeous purity/sweetness. Although outstanding, it is not one of Sisseck's most prodigious efforts.
WS:91
Alluring aromas of plums and chocolate follow through on the palate of this generous, polished red. Rich yet balanced, with real depth and a long finish. Delicious now, but should improve. Drink now through 2007. 100 cases imported. (TM)

Château Margaux 1979
WA:93
This wine is just now reaching full maturity, much later than I initially expected. It is a classy, elegant example of Margaux possessing a dark ruby/purple color, and a moderately intense nose of sweet black currant fruit intermixed with minerals, vanillin, and floral scents. The wine is medium-bodied, with beautifully sweet fruit. This linear, more compressed style of Margaux possesses a good inner-core of sweet fruit, and a charming, harmonious personality. Although not a blockbuster, it is aging effortlessly, and appears to take on more character with each passing year. Anticipated maturity: Now-2010. Last tasted 12/96.
WS:91

Domaine Chapoutier Ermitage Blanc "De L'Oree" 1991
WA:94
This firm makes outstanding white Hermitage. Readers lucky enough to have access to any of the 300-500 cases of the luxury cuvee called Hermitage Cuvee de l'Orvee should use whatever contact they have to latch onto a bottle or two of the 1993, 1992, or 1991. Made from Chapoutier's oldest vines on the Hermitage Hill (average age of 75 years), these are closed, mineral-dominated, honeyed wines that are completely dry but fabulously rich with an intensity and breadth of flavor that would embarrass many of Burgundy's Le Montrachets. Although the 1991 Hermitage Cuvee de l'Orvee may turn out to be as compelling as the 1992, at the moment it is not as exotic. The wine is full-bodied and stunningly rich, with a honeyed, peach blossom, Acacia flower, mineral-scented nose, and unctuously-textured, thick, rich, chewy flavors. The acidity provides zest and vibrancy. The finish lasts for up to a minute. It should last for 20-30 years. These are monumental dry white wines! Chapoutier's obsession with tiny yields and natural, pure wines that reflect the vineyard's terroir, soil, and varietal aromatic and flavor profile are well-displayed in his current and up-coming white wine releases.
WS:79
Round and placid, with a strong, pure almond note at its core that adds interest. (TM)

Château d'Yquem 1997
WA:96
A sensational Yquem, 1997 may be this estate's finest effort since 1990 (although I would not discount the 1996 turning out to be nearly as good). The 1997's light gold color is accompanied a gorgeous perfume of caramel, honeysuckle, peach, apricot, and smoky wood. Full-bodied and unctuously-textured, with good underlying acidity as well as loads of sweetness and glycerin, it looks to be a great vintage for this renowned Sauternes estate. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2055. Note: Yquem spends 42 months in 100% new oak. No cask tasting is permitted, and the wine is not released until 5 years after the vintage. For example, the 1998 will be released some time in 2003; the 2001 will not be released until 2006.
WS:95 (Collectibles)
Extremely concentrated, yet subtle. Aromas of honey and spices, with an intense botrytis nose. Full-bodied, thick and fruity, with orange peel and lemon rind character. Medium sweetness. Balanced, yet thick and backward. Reminds me of the harmonious 1990--certainly the best since then. Best after 2008. 14,000 cases made. (JS)

Taylor's Porto Vintage 2000
WA:98

Among the most saturated blue/purple/black-colored examples of the vintage, Taylor's 2000 tastes like a young vintage of Chateau Latour on steroids. Aromas of graphite, blackberry liqueur, creme de cassis and smoke jump from the glass. Spectacularly concentrated and enormously endowed, with sweetness allied to ripe tannin, decent acidity, and layer upon layer of fruit and extract, this is the leading candidate for the port of the vintage. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2040.