2006年7月13日 星期四

J小姐的慶生會@Tutto Bello......(2006.07.09)

這次慶生會的主角是酒友E的女朋友J,兩個在一起後就變成EJ,地點則是選在Tutto Bello,上個月KJ慶生會也在這裡舉辦。中午的Tutto Bello人比較少,但仍是笑聲不斷,而且上菜節奏和服務品質和晚上相同,真好。

中午我們吃的是商業午餐,一前菜、一主菜、一甜點。上菜前先用香檳開胃,這一天有兩支香檳一起上:

Gosset Brut Rosé Champagne "Grand Rosé" NVB君提供)
Baby pink
的酒液,略偏一絲紅銅色,邊緣略泛透明,液面晶亮,氣泡均勻,但有些不持久。有著酵母、一些BBQ香氣,一開始可能有些冰,香氣覺有些悶,強度略強,略感複雜度。入口時感覺到有酸度,酒體頗重,口中有著酵母、煙燻、礦石、一些BBQ香氣,略有酒精感,感覺是太冰的關係,香氣較不能施展。尾韻長度適中。回溫後口感有較厚些,多了一些燒烤香氣。

Krug Brut Champagne Grand Cuvée NVH大提供)
酒液呈金黃色,邊緣泛黃,液面晶亮,氣泡細密均勻,很漂亮。有著頗濃郁的酵母、礦石、鳳梨、罐頭水果、堅果香氣,略帶一些氧化系香氣,不過氧化香氣回溫即消失,略感複雜度。入口時感覺到有酸度,酒體頗重,口中有著酵母、礦石、罐頭鳳梨、一些奶油糖香氣,氣泡在口中感覺細緻均勻,綿延不斷,是做得很好的香檳,現在正好喝。尾韻長度適中。

前菜是挪威燻鮭魚沙拉,食材本身新鮮不說,搭配的Balsamico醋和橄欖油醬汁,味道更顯豐富。記得之前吃尼古拉燻鮭魚時,搭配的正是這支Krug Grand Cuvée NV,這回喝到的水準更高,據酒主人H大說法,這支香檳是數年前買到的,價格漂亮,而且數年來都陳放在自己的酒櫃裡,口感果然曼妙豐富。

在等待主菜時,我請他們先decant我的酒,很害怕這支酒的表現太差,比如沉睡中醒不來或壞掉之類的。另外還喝到了壽星男朋友提供的Bordeaux老酒哩!

Domaine de Chevalier 1985 (Rouge)E君提供)
酒液呈深寶石紅色,顏色頗深,邊緣泛紅色,液面晶亮,看起來頗健康。有著頗濃郁的大地系、黑莓果、皮革、一些薄荷香氣,
Merlot香氣感覺明顯,香感覺較甜美,略感複雜度。入口時感覺到有酸度,酒體頗重,單寧量適中且已釋出,感覺到有澀度,口中有著黑莓果、一些黑醋栗、大地系、薄荷香氣,一開始口感仍然強壯結實,做得不錯。尾韻長度適中。這支酒現在喝正剛好,一陣子後再喝就漸感粗獷,不若一開始均衡了。

Dominique Laurent Clos Vougeot 1999AA大提供)
酒液呈深寶石紅色,邊緣泛紅色,液面晶亮。有著頗濃郁的覆盆子、草莓、奶油、一些大地系、一些濃郁漿果類的香氣,有甜美的感覺,桶味雖重但整合得頗好,略感複雜度。入口時感覺到有酸度,酒體略強,單寧量適中且已釋出,感覺到有澀度,口中以覆盆子果醬、大地系香氣為主,有些酒精感,口感甜美好喝,有結構感,似乎會再發展。尾韻長度適中。這支酒是酒主人從國外背回來的,很辛苦,也很值得,另外也對
Laurent整合重桶味和果味的功力感到佩服。

主菜登場,我點的是薄煎小牛肉,據說是牛菲力拍薄後煎熟,再佐以松露醬汁,渾厚的松露香氣撲鼻,但牛肉的肉汁消失,口感較差,搭配松露醬汁也只好些,並無法嚐到牛肉的肉汁和鮮甜口感。松露和Bungundy紅酒、Toscana紅酒都很好搭配,用來搭Clos Vougeot很不錯。

Samsone再幫大家送上松露薯條,又是讓人愛不釋手、也無法停口的好東西,KJ生日會上也有吃到,這次大家也是努力地吃、和上次相差不遠啊!這時候,我的酒也一起上來,用紅酒搭薯條:
Campogiovanni Brunello di Montalcino 1997

這支酒已經丟
decanter約一個半小時。酒液呈頗深的寶石紅色,邊緣泛紅色,有層次感,液面晶亮。有著濃郁的覆盆子、大地系、木桶香氣,略帶一些濃郁果醬、煙燻、奶油、燒烤、大地系香氣,做得很漂亮,是有複雜度的好酒。入口時感覺到有酸度,重度酒體,單寧量充足而感覺到澀度,強勁的酒,但又有極好的結構,口感均衡,醒得正好,口中有著覆盆子果醬、紅莓果、煙燻、大地系香氣,略帶一些奶油香氣,是新派風格的Brunello di Montalcino,但是做得很好。尾韻長度略長些。後來香氣更豐富,不時竄出漂亮的花香,比我上次喝到的還要好。這回完全表現它最精采的時候,讓我對它開始期待了。

最後上了甜點,大伙分一個Tiramisu蛋糕,在大家的祝福中,壽星J小姐許了三個願望。我在三年前即吃過Tutto BelloTiramisu,口感絕妙,這回仍維持著高水準,似乎喚回三年前第一次吃到Tutto Bello的感覺……

最後,還有會後會,去唱歌!同時享受德哥和AA精湛的歌聲,已不虛此行了,德哥還貢獻一支少見的冰酒,那時重點是唱歌,只記得金黃色的酒液裡,有著蜂蜜、花蜜、青草、礦石、一些萊姆皮香氣,兼具高酸度和甜口感,表現非常均衡、好喝,非常喜歡。這支甜酒作結,也要祝壽星生日快樂囉!

後記:7/11TA天母店,也舉辦了J小姐的慶生會,男朋友E甜心準備廣田洋果子好吃的黑森林蛋糕,上面還有點綴好吃的草莓哩!我則是開了一支Bourgogne紅酒,酒莊風格討喜、釀法新潮,但就是喜歡:
Domaine Vincent & Philippe Lechéneaut Nuits-St.-Georges 1er Cru "Les Pruliers" 2000

酒液略深呈寶石紅色,液面晶亮,邊緣泛紅。一開瓶倒入杯中,有著略濃的乾燥花、草梗、覆盆子、紅莓果果醬、燻烤香氣,略帶一些奶油、木桶香氣,桶味雖重但整合得極好,很討喜的新派的風格,討喜但喜歡,略感複雜度。入口時感覺到有酸度,單寧量略少且已釋出,感覺到有澀度,酒體適中,口感有些甜,口中有著覆盆子、紅莓果、乾燥花、草梗、一些燻烤、一絲奶油糖香氣,口感很均衡、各元素都整合地很好,很喜歡。尾韻長度適中。這支酒喝了一個半小時,未見老態,但也沒有更多的細節變化。

另外感謝H大和趙大哥提供的眾多好酒,酒單如下:
Moët & Chandon Brut Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon 1996
Barone Ricasoli Toscana IGT Casalferro 1999
Bodegas y Viñedos Alion Ribera del Duero "Cosecha" 2001
Robert Weil Riesling Kabinett Rheingau 2005
Robert Weil Riesling Auslese Rheingau Kiedricher Grafenberg 2005

Gosset Brut Rosé Champagne "Grand Rosé" NV
WS:88
An assertive, brawny style of rose, incorporating yeast, grain and berry notes into a firm, dry structure. Full-bodied and tactile on the palate, it demands your attention. Drink now. 10,000 cases made. (BS)

Krug Brut Champagne Grand Cuvée NV
WA:93
Oddly, the most consistent Krug wine I have been tasting lately is their non-vintage Brut Grand Cuvee, a big, boldly styled Champagne with smoky, earthy, pear, apple, and spicy aromas as well as flavors, loads of effervescence, and fine body and depth.
WS:95(Highly Recommend)
Such a glorious expression of Champagne, combining depth over vintages and complexity of sites to create a profound, multifaceted cuvee. Rich biscuit, ginger, coconut and citrus aromas are followed by gingerbread, baked apple and grilled nut flavors, all supported by a firm yet harmonious structure. Endless finish. Superb. Drink now through 2008. 3,000 cases imported. (BS)
T:95
Pale bronze. Knockout nose combines smoke, maple syrup, fennel, chlorophyll, ginger, nutmeg and orange oil, all buttressed by a pungent, gamey, brothy element. Wonderfully ripe, smooth and harmonious, with the wine's sheer thickness and sweetness of fruit perfectly balanced by rather powerful but integrated acids. Compelling yeast autolysis character gives this multi-vintage blend great complexity. Remarkably slow-building, palate-staining finish. Ultimately comes across as sweeter than the comparatively forbidding Clos du Mesnil but you can't get either one of these remarkable wines off your palate.

Domaine de Chevalier 1985 (Rouge)
WA:86
The 1985's attractive bouquet is followed by sweet, ripe, rich fruit, and light tannins.  It has matured more quickly than I thought and appears well-developed. It lacks the concentration one usually expects of wines from this property. Anticipated maturity: Now-2005. Last tasted, 6/93.
WS:91
Yet another outstanding effort from this property. Extremely fine with wonderful cedar, cherry aromas and flavors. Full-bodied with a super tannin structure. Drinkable now.--The Bordeaux 50. (JS)

Dominique Laurent Clos Vougeot 1999
BH:88-91
(from 70 year old vines located in the climat of Grand Maupertuis and no, the source for this wine was not Anne Gros – I asked). Austere and regal in its reserve yet the density is breathtaking. A good deal more structured than the Clos de la Roche and not nearly as forward yet there is more finesse here than most young Clos de Vougeots offer. Solid in every respect.

Campogiovanni Brunello di Montalcino 1997
WS:94
Super well-crafted. Vivid aromas of black licorice, minerals and plums. Full-bodied, with fine tannins and a long, long finish. Very tight, but outstanding. A wine to age. Best after 2003. 5,500 cases made. (JS)
T:90
Medium to dark garnet, with intense ruby highlights. Sweet floral aroma suggestive of lavender, with inviting notes of cinnamon and mocha. Fresh and juicy in the mouth, with dark fruit flavors predominating, especially cherry and plum. The texture of this medium-bodied wine is creamy, with suave, ripe, rich tannins. A stylish and harmonious Brunello that nonetheless lacks the complexity and depth one would expect from this vintage.

Domaine Vincent & Philippe Lechéneaut Nuits-St.-Georges 1er Cru "Les Pruliers" 2000
WA:90
Medium to dark ruby-colored and boasting a spice-laden nose, the 2000 Nuits-St.-Georges Les Pruliers is a silky-textured, medium-bodied wine. Broad, expansive, and rich, this plush, expressive offering coats the mouth with a myriad of dark fruit flavors. Projected maturity: now-2009. The Lecheneaut brothers, Philippe and Vincent, have a distinct preference for the 2000s over the 2001s. According to them, 'the acidity levels are higher in 2001 and the tannins had trouble ripening whereas in 2000 we had superb ripeness.'
BH:85-87
(a new premier cru as of the '99 vintage). Reserved and slightly austere with slightly dilute flavors yet good finishing intensity. This too is pretty and elegant but lacks sufficient grip and density to rise to the next level. (85-87)/2005-9

Barone Ricasoli Toscana IGT Casalferro 1999
WS:90
Beautiful and balanced, with plum, violet and vanilla character. Medium-bodied, with fine tannins and a fresh and refined aftertaste. Sangiovese and Merlot. Best from 2004 through 2009. 10,830 cases made. (JS)