2005年1月30日 星期日

2005 TA旺年會......(2005.1.29)

(由左至右分別為第1至第9號酒)

前一陣子就約好了的「旺」年會,終於在很多人說「不確定」的情況下辦成了。人不多,不過酒多就好,我們用酒來「旺」年的啦~哈哈~

人都慢慢到了,可愛的C小姐先開一支酒替大家暖胃,據說……喝了之後,真的暖了起來,呵~

1.Thomas Fogarty Santa Cruz Mountains Pinot Noir 1999(可愛的C小姐提供)

酒液呈較深的寶石紅色,略有帶紫,中央不甚透明。靜置時有紅莓果、草莓、木桶味,略有梅子和乾草味,搖晃後莓果類香氣變得較明顯。入口後口感偏重,酸度略高,單寧略少而略感到甜美感,酒體較厚,算是很美式風格的Pinot Noir。韻長度適中。之後再喝的感覺,果味豐沛,但香氣變得較簡單。

邊喝,也邊幫後面的酒排順序。我們這次是很認真地在排喔,應該是沒有什麼很大的問題,吧……再來,大家可能都是講好的,1997 Bourgogne大會串!!

2.Domaine G. Roumier Chabolle-Musigny 1er cru Les Cras 1997

酒液呈蕃茄紅色,邊緣略較淺些,strong。靜置時即有明顯木塞味,另有紅莓、藥草、木味,香氣感覺略淡且細,搖晃後木塞味仍重,莓果味相對之下較不明顯了。入口後口感略偏薄(不重的酒體),單寧適中,酸度亦適中,木塞味和酸度感受到酒的複雜度較差。餘韻略短,略有苦感。大家都有覺得這酒怪怪的,Dugat碎也說他之前喝到的並不是這個樣子,不過我沒喝過,只覺得木塞味似乎重了點,其它仍值得玩味。

3.Domaine Georges Lignier Bonnes Mares 1997(小戶我提供)

酒液呈寶石紅色,略偏紅,邊緣較淺。靜置時即有紅莓果、木桶味,略帶有大地、溼草地、溼紙板味,香氣的感覺細緻且豐富,搖晃後香氣更感細緻多變,莓類香氣明顯。入口後口感適中,酸度適中,澀度適中,算是很均衡的好酒,有均衡感兼具複雜度,很值得玩味的好酒。餘韻適中,略有甘口感。之後我還聞到好聞、優雅豐富的草莓香氣,還有變化的菌菇香氣。我承認我滿喜歡Georges Lignier的酒,它的價錢一直都很實惠,而且水準很高,只是沒有酒評家去嚐試吧……這支酒我覺得還可以再放個幾年沒問題,嗯,真好,找到好貨了……

4.Domaine François Lamarche Clos de Vougeot 1997(酒店公主V小姐提供)

酒液呈寶石紅色,略偏紅,顏色較3號酒深些。靜置時即有紅莓果、皮革、大地味,我覺得很有Clos de Vougeot的特色,香氣略有封閉感,搖晃後紅莓果味更突出,但還有一些無法形容的香氣。入口後酸度略感尖銳,澀度適中,酒體較3號酒厚些,口中的香氣值得玩味,略感複雜。尾韻長度適中,值得回味。記得之前喝到一次「金手指」的Clos de Vougeot,香氣表現上也有類似的感覺,和書裡提到的對照一下,印象又更深了些。

再來是Dugat碎頁獻的好酒,雖然不是Dugat,不過也是有名的好酒呢~

5.M. Chapoutier Saint-Joseph ‘Les Granits‘ 2000Dugat碎大戶提供)

酒液呈頗深的紫紅色,明顯較14號酒來得深,邊緣的感覺也深。靜置時即有明顯的黑莓、胡椒、香料、木桶、燒烤味,搖晃後莓果和胡椒味明顯。入口口感較濃郁厚重些,單寧充足強壯且略感咬口,酒體較強,真是很年輕有衝勁的酒,變化多。尾韻略長些,有回甘的甘口感。喝到這個產區的酒,是第一次,不過酒莊水準的高也可以感覺得到。

6.Falesco Montiano Lazio 1999Z小姐提供)

酒液呈深紫紅色,頗深的感覺,和5號酒不相上下,very strong & young。靜置即明顯感聞到黑莓、香料、燻烤和木桶味,搖晃後黑莓味更加突出,香氣濃郁,果味明顯。入口後後口感濃厚,單寧充足且感咬口(又是一支太年輕就開來喝的好酒),酸度較低、不甚明顯,不過仍有肌肉充實的口感,中度複雜度,變化仍足。尾韻略長些。在Parker的書裡提到葡萄品種是Merlot,呵~小小的猜對一下。這也是第一次喝到義大利中部的酒,很特別,當然喝酒是不會想到那裡以前淒慘的故事的……

我們的入場券是好酒一支(至少要數千萬……土耳其幣),呵~開玩笑的,不過中間也有新朋友加入,並且貢獻一支好酒:

7.Château La Tour Carnet 1995(王先生提供)

酒液呈紫紅色,略偏紅些且略深,仍strong。靜置時有大地、溼紙板、黑醋栗、黑莓果、藥草味,搖晃後香氣仍維持著,並不甚濃郁。入口後感覺有酸度,澀度略高,單寧明顯,中度到重度酒體,感覺口感較粗壯,架構良好但香氣變化少些。這是一個四級酒莊,水準似乎仍可再提昇。

喝到這裡,大家也有些差不多了,不過後面還有甜點,是V公主買來請大家的草莓蛋糕,搭配的是C小姐提供的好酒喔!還有最後一支酒,正被好好的decant哩~

8.Domaine Weinbach Tokay Pinot Gris "Cuvée Ste. Catherine" 1997(可愛的C小姐提供)

酒液呈略淺些的金黃色,strong。靜置時即有檸檬、青蘋果等清新水果香氣,還帶有花香,香氣感覺清新怡人。入口後口感清新爽口,酸度適中但略低些,酒體適中,略有一些些的甜味。尾韻略長些。一開始以為這支酒是甜酒,所以提它放到很後面才喝,當然我們錯了,呵~我的經驗值仍需再加強啦,不過這白酒搭配著草莓蛋糕,還真有加分效果哩!

最後最後,好戲上場!TA名講師果然名不虛傳,一出手就讓人忘了煩惱,忘了憂愁,忘了他的酒是最好的……

9.Château Chasse-Spleen 1982Paul提供)

喝的時候約已decant一個小時了。酒液呈紫紅色,顏色頗深,仍很強壯。靜置時即有頗強的黑醋栗、紫羅蘭、木桶、大地味,略有封閉感,香氣變化仍足,搖晃後才慢慢感覺到酒有醒來,香氣變得較明顯。入口後口感濃郁,full-bodied,單寧充足且感強壯,有明顯的胡椒、溼草地和黑醋栗味,酸度較明顯。尾韻略短些,不過酒體有複雜度,對這支已經有20年歷史的酒來說,現在正是強壯的時候,可以好好品嘗它。

喝到這裡,大家慢慢結束了,他們還有人續攤,不過我不能再續了,回家休息……大家也約好下次要喝酒吃大餐,我沒辦法參加,不過以後還有更多的機會哩!讓人意猶味盡的感覺,會很期待下次的聚會吧……


M. Chapoutier Saint-Joseph "Les Granits" 2000

WA:92

The 2000 St.-Joseph Les Granits possesses a huge nose of melted licorice intermixed with acacia flowers, liquified stones, and orange blossoms. Offered in a full-bodied, chewy style with loads of concentration, marvelous body, and a long, dense finish.

WS:87

Delicious. Exotic, with violet, rose petal, licorice, cassis aromas and flavors. A nice Syrah, with some gamy and smoky accents, and a suppleness on the long, smoky finish. Drink now through 2004. 440 cases made. (PM)

Falesco Montiano Lazio 1999

WA:95

The profound, dense ruby/purple-colored 1999 Montiano (2,500 cases of 100% Merlot aged in 100% new French oak, and bottled unfined and unfiltered) offers a smorgasbord of aromas, including melted chocolate, espresso, blackberries, cherries, currants, and smoke. Full-bodied, with terrific purity, a multilayered texture, and surprising freshness for a wine of such depth, it can be drunk young, or cellared for 10-15 years. For technicians who care about such things, it has a whopping 37 grams per liter of dry extract.

Château La Tour Carnet 1995

WA:78-82

Sweeter fruit than the 1994 and medium body are accompanied by hard tannin in the finish.

WS:87

Pretty, with lovely berry, tobacco and vanilla aromas and flavors. Medium- to full-bodied, with well-integrated tannins and a medium aftertaste. Needs time to come around. Best after 2001. 18,000 cases made. (JS)

Domaine Weinbach Tokay Pinot Gris "Cuvée Ste. Catherine" 1997

WA:90

Produced from grapes harvested in both the Clos des Capucins and the Schlossberg vineyards, the 1997 Tokay-Pinot Gris Cuvee Ste. Catherine exhibits buttered and jammy apricot aromas. This is an opulent, velvety-textured wine with exotic white raisin and peach flavors. Medium-to-full-bodied and lush, it is concentrated as well as well-balanced. Drink it over the next 8 years. Since Laurence Faller took over the winemaking duties at Domaine Weinbach (1993/94) there have been marked stylistic changes to the wines. They remain extremely well-made, rich, and concentrated yet are less generous in their youth than under the former winemaker's regime. I am, however, convinced that the wines presently being produced at this famed estate will be longer-lived than those from the past.

WS:85

Lush-smelling, with honey and ginger nuances and creme brulee on the palate. Developed in flavor, with a crispness that stems as much from a citrus-peel note as from the moderate acidity. Not a blockbuster, but attractive. Tasted twice, with consistent notes. Drink now through 2002. 90 cases imported. (BS)

Château Chasse-Spleen 1982

WA:86

The 1982 Chasse-Spleen has never been as impressive as the glorious series of wines made under the late Bernadette Villars between 1985 and 1990. Nevertheless, the 1982 continues to behave well, exhibiting plenty of ripe, spicy, currant fruit in its moderately intense nose, medium body, sweet, expansive fruit, and an easy-going finish. It is fully mature, so why wait?  It should continue to drink well for another 4-6+ years. Tasted 5 times since bottling with consistent notes.

WS:90(1989.11.30)

Superb balance of ripe fruit and tannin. Deep ruby color; delicate mint, rose and floral aromas. Full-bodied, with mint, berry, fruit and vanilla flavors, medium to full tannins and an excellent cedar and tobacco finish. (JS)

WS:86(1998.11.30)

Holding on. Bright ruby color, with a brick-red edge. Chocolate and berry aromas, with hints of tobacco. Medium-bodied, with ripe fruit and tobacco character, but rather dry on the finish.--1982 Bordeaux horizontal. Drink now. (JS)