周二一支會小記......(2006.06.20)

我們的「周二一支會」以前辦在周三或周四，一人開一支，平均一人喝掉一支，喝多累不說，不少酒友的酒庫都損傷慘重，老酒幾盡；現在改走健康取向，很多人輪著開一支，輕鬆喝，沒負擔，隔天上班也不會累，又能細心品嘗好酒，不亦美哉！

首先是趙大哥的酒，一支做得很不錯的1982 Bordeaux，酒莊倒是不常見。光看到年份，眼睛就為之一亮，產區也是我喜歡的Saint-Julien啊：
Château Gloria 1982
木塞狀況不算好，塞子滿長的。酒液呈寶石紅色，邊緣泛著磚紅色、偏橘色，液面明亮，已有老態。有著略感柔弱的薄荷、涼草蓆、樹葉、森林香氣，香氣感覺有些單調，幾無複雜度。入口時感覺略有酸度，酒體適中，單寧量略少且已釋出，感覺到略有澀度，單寧感覺很柔順，口中有著薄荷、樹葉、一些蕃茄醬、一些森林香氣，喝起來還有像薄荷般涼涼的感覺，很奇妙。尾韻長度略短。約醒酒一個小時後，酸度緩慢拉升，酒體開始渙散。

Château Gloria遲至2003年才入選為Cru Bourgeois的一員，但在此之前已被Robert Parker評為「very good」的酒莊之一，以當時的技術而言，是做得很不錯的。1982年是Bordeaux的大好年，很多好酒到現在都未達到顛峰，以這次喝到的感覺，應該算是完全熟了，可能完全成熟的Bordeaux就是這樣吧！

這周輪到我開酒，想到老酒通常比較柔弱，需要在舌頭最敏感的時候先感受，所以我的酒放在這支Bordeaux紅酒之後開。這回我開的是白酒，地塊很不錯，而且天氣熱，喝著冰好的白酒，實在快活：
Domaine Michel Colin-Deléger Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru 'En Remilly' 1999
酒液呈略淺的金黃色，邊緣泛透明，有層次感，液面晶亮。有著玉米（像玉米零嘴、玉米鬚、玉米飼料、卵磷脂等香氣，就是不像新鮮玉米）、水果乾、鳳梨香氣，略帶一些燻烤、青草、杏桃、奶油香氣，香氣略感濃郁，但以玉米香氣為主，略感複雜度，帶有一些細緻感。入口時感覺到有酸度，酒體略強（13.5%），口中有著玉米、鳳梨、杏桃香氣，略有酒精感，可能還未達到均衡感。尾韻長度適中。酒回溫後有轉化出一些桔皮、鳳梨乾香氣，做得很不錯。

「En Remilly」這個一級葡萄園位在Chassagne-Montrachet和Puligny-Montrachet的交界，嘗過同款酒的兩個年份，常兼有粗獷的口感和細緻的香氣，是我喜歡的風格之一。Burghound的適飲期寫的沒錯，實在是開的太早了，最少要再放兩三年後，才會逐漸適飲、達到均衡吧！酸度還高，還沒熟，而我則開始考慮要不要再買一支來放……

喝著喝著，居然遇到了葉醫師，他也開心的拿了一支酒出來，正巧兩個月前喝過2002年的同款酒，很新派、討喜，很喜歡，那麼這支十歲的酒呢？
Domaine Vincent et Philippe Lechéneaut Nuits-St.-Georges 'Les Damodes' 1995
酒液呈寶石紅色，邊緣泛紅色、略偏橘色，液面明亮。有著鐵塊、大地系、薄荷覆盆子香氣，略帶一些櫻桃和煙燻香氣，香氣略強，變化豐富，能感覺到複雜度，香氣做的實在漂亮。入口時感覺到有酸度，酒體較強，單寧量適中且已釋出，感覺到有澀度，口感頗均衡，有強勁感，口中有著覆盆子、草莓、大地系、皮革、甘草香氣，略帶一些薄荷香氣，變化豐富，不可思議。尾韻長度適中，帶有甘草感。是一支無庸置疑的好酒，現在表現正好！

「Les Damodes」葡萄園鄰近Vosne-Romanée村，1/3是村莊級，2/3是一級葡萄園，果味豐沛、極具魅力，神似Vosne-Romanée村的強勁風格。Lechéneaut酒莊是當地水準極高的酒莊之一，回想上一次在悅上海喝到的口感，年輕的酒喝起來很新派，居然在數年後會有這樣的變化，更相信他們的高水準了。

時間也晚了，酒友們先行離開，我留下等店員的時候，葉醫師再加開一小支甜白酒，疑？這支酒好面熟啊……年份是極好的2003，非常期待：
Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey 2003 (375mL)
酒液呈金黃色，邊緣泛著透明，有層次感，液面晶亮，是非常年輕的酒。有著極濃郁的蜂蜜、花蜜、杏桃、楓糖糖漿香氣，略帶一些塑膠、花香、草梗、檸檬、萊姆皮香氣，濃厚的香氣藏著豐富變化，略感複雜度。入口時感覺到有酸度，重度酒體，是濃郁的甜美口感，口中有著蜂蜜、杏桃、塑膠、花香、檸檬香氣，酸感酷似檸檬，但又有濃厚的甜味，拉長在口中的感受。尾韻帶著蜂蜜、草梗、檸檬香氣，有約20秒的長度，頗長。蜂蜜、杏桃、檸檬香氣不時竄出，每口都有著不同的感受。

這是一支濃郁厚實的好酒，還有著豐富細緻的變化，隱隱能感覺到，陳年之後會有更漂亮的表現，但不知道自己是否能等那麼久……時間真的晚了，慢慢地回去休息，以漂亮的甜酒作結尾，實在讓人開心……

Château Gloria 1982
WA:88
The 1982 Gloria is proving to be one of the most pleasant surprises of the vintage.  Recent bottles have been beautifully rich, with classic blackcurrant fruit intertwined with scents of spice, herbs, and cedar. Full-bodied, with a lovely concentrated feel, this is the richest Gloria since the tannic 1975 and glorious 1970 (now in decline).  The 1982 could have been bought for a song when released (I purchased it for $7.29 a bottle). When it was young, it was just a big ball of juicy fruit, but it has developed well. While seemingly fully mature, this wine will easily last for another 7-10 years .  Tasted 8 times since bottling with consistent notes.
WS:89
Big, warm and ripe. Medium ruby color. Fresh and fruity, with perfume, berry and raspberry aromas. Medium-bodied, with berry, cherry and chocolate flavors, medium tannins and a medium finish.--1982 Bordeaux horizontal. Drink now. (JS)

Domaine Michel Colin-Deléger Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru 'En Remilly' 1999
T:90
Floral, lime and nut oil notes on the nose. Bright but tight in the mouth, with intense, firm flavors of lime and minerals. High-pitched but not hard. Finishes impressively long, with excellent grip. This should age gracefully.
BH:91
While most examples of En Remilly offer good detail and minerality, few offer the power and intensity of this 99. Quite tight and closed with almost painfully intense flavors and a powerful acid backbone; the entire package is like drinking liquid rocks. This is so reserved today that it’s frankly difficult to evaluate and my rating could well prove to be conservative. Don’t touch this for at least 5 years. 91/2007+

Domaine Vincent et Philippe Lechéneaut Nuits-St.-Georges 'Les Damodes' 1995
WA:88-90
From a 40 year old parcel bordering Vosne-Romanee, the dark-ruby-colored Nuits-St.-Georges Les Damodes reveals a fabulously perfumed, spicy sweet nose and an extremely elegant, structured, delineated, thick-textured, tangy-fruit-packed personality. A real winner! Drink between 2002-2008. This note is the result of tastings I did in Burgundy between January 7 and January 29. The wine was tasted from cask, not bottle. Pinot Noir, a fragile varietal, reacts poorly to fining, filtration, and careless bottling techniques, I recommend caution when considering buying a red burgundy based on cask samples. I called it as I tasted it, and hope the bottled wine reflects the quality of the samples I was provided. Each of Domaine Lecheneaut's offerings is a pleasure to recommend. These wines are lush and sweet but capable of aging well, as the 1990s I have in my cellar continue to prove.
WS:85
Beautiful aromas of blackberries and roses are followed by a firmly structured, crisp-tasting wine. Plenty of dry tannins in evidence, so wait until 2000. 300 cases made. (PM)

Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey 2003
WA:89
WS:97
Very, very intense aromas of dried apricot and lemon. Honey, syrup and Golden Delicious. Full-bodied, viscous and very sweet. Pour it on pancakes. Love it. And drink it. Who can wait? Best after 2010. 6250 cases made. (JS)
T:89-91
Full yellow-gold. Sweet aromas of apricot and nuts. Suave, fleshy and rich, with thick, honeyed-flavors given shape by just enough acidity. Shows repeating nutty oak in the middle palate and on the finish. A very rich, thick style, with very good but not outstanding complexity.